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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Ford 8.8 rear. It's making a clicking sound and it's almost to where I can feel it.
I drove the car and coasted in neutral and its definitely coming from the rear.
My Questions:
Should I prepare for a rebuild?
Anyone else experience this?
Thanks
Brian

[ May 15, 2007, 08:57 PM: Message edited by: vaporeyz ]
 

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Senior Member
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4,494 Posts
Clicking sound. Are you sure you don't have a bad U-joint? These 8.8 rearends don't take a dump that often, they are very hardy.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Find source of noise before you rebuild. It may not be internal to the rear itself. Check u joints,pinion angle and look closely at the brakes,espeacally if drum brakes are used. make sure non of the brake hardware is touching drum.
May also want to look at the inside of the tire and rims to be they are clearing. E brake cable can also come in contact with drive shaft.
As a rule these rears don't give much warning if there wearing out like a clicking noise. It usually all goes at once.
 

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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok guys, thanks. I will check the u-joints and then the brakes. I do have drum brakes as well so I will check them, but I am really scared to drive it with this sound/vibration.
Brian
 

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what kind of rear end are you using? if its a detroit locker, then its going to go "click, click click" when turning.

are you running the "stock" ford "traction lock"? how many miles on it?

if its a vibration, I would check U-joints first. easy, and cheap fix.
 

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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 8.8 rear is a stock traction lock. It's definitely a loud clicking noise, associated with some vibration. I checked lugs already, but if it makes the sound while tranny is in neutral could it still be u-joints?
Thanks for the help,
Brian
 

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yes, it could still be a u-joint since the drive shaft is still turning even when the tranny is in neutral..
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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You could put the rear axle on jack stands and run the car in gear at idle to see if you can pinpoint it. Just don't get under the car. If you can hear it from the driver's seat, you should be able to hear it from the ground behind the car.
 

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Car in neutral rolling with vibration and clicking noise is usually a wheel bearing. A bad U-joint will vibrate so bad under load it will make you think you car is gonna fall apart. Also check for wheel out of balance or wheel weight hitting dust shield.

Michael S.
 

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Its a long shot, but did you add friction modifer when you re-filled the rear end with oil? Sometimes without the friction modifer the rear end will make a chattering sound. Like I said, its a long shot.
 

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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am going to jack the car up and see what the noise is coming from. Perhaps I can replicate the sound/vibration with the engine off.
I was thinking it could be a bad wheel bearing too Michael.
Hiss, yea I did add the modifier when I changed the gear oil, thanks for checking.
I will update when I have figured out the culprit.
Thanks again guys
Brian
 

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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I cannot believe what I found.
The four driveshaft mounting bolts were loose!
And I had used the permatex red thread locker on them when I installed the shaft... Yikes.
Needless to say I retightened them and all is well again. Thanks for the help you guys!
 

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wow, im glad you were able to fix the problem. im in the process of build my donor rear end and its a pain. i guess u got to have a shop press for the bearings...
 

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Need a really long 12 point box wrench to get these bolts tight. Seems like this(drive shaft bolts) and loosend hose clamps are a common causes of problem on freshly build cars. Another reason to nut and bolt the entire car after a few test miles. Glad you found them before going any further.
 

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I drilled the bolt head and safety wired. ;)
 

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The threads on the flange tend to get oily/dirty here, so thread locker might not work. Be sure to look up the torque spec for these bolts and torque them to that. A regular box end wrench probably won't get them torqued to spec since 12-point bolt heads are usually much smaller than the corresponding 6-point head that would normally be used on the same thread size.

Nylock nuts don't apply here since the bolts thread into the flange.

Safety wire is always a good way to go on something like this, but clean bolts torqued to spec will work fine.

If you didn't take a close look at the bolts before re-tightening them, I would recommend crawling back under there and doing that. The driveshaft clicking and grinding against those loose bolts could have damaged the threads.
 

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FFR MKII SuperCharged-331 Astro A5, 5 link rear suspension.
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1,298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You know, after reading all the posts, I am going to get new bolts and try to locktite and safety wire them in. Thanks for the ideas! :D
cheers guys
Brian
 
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