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· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it worth it to undercoat the fiberglass body. The thread from 7 years ago had a mixed opinion....

If so, is herculiner the way to go or regular rubberized latex

If its a good thing to do, should i do the whole body or just the wheelwells.

I would do it prior to paint so i can turn the body over and brush it on.

Need your opinion and experience

thanks

SAM
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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On my first FFR build back in 1997, I used nothing and got a star crack in my beautiful paint job in the first 200 miles I drove the car.....
Made me sick to my stomach....

since then I have used bedliner in the wheel wells of every FFR I have built and have never had another star crack.

What i usually do is flip the body over and paint the whole thing flat black under neath, then I have bedliner applied through the entire wheel well areas.
 

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Herculiner +1

I used one gallon of Herculiner, cheap insurance to getting a star crack after paint.

Its easy to rollon and definately deadens any rock noises hitting the underside of the body.
 

· 1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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28,717 Posts
I used 1 gal of the brand Walmart carries ( Bondo or Plasticoat?) that was $39/gal about 5 years ago. It's simi-gloss and has some small grit in it. Protects and it makes all the visible fiberglass disapear. I used it on the aluminum panels in the fender wells to make them go away.

Greg
 

· Official OLD GUY
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3,877 Posts
Wal-Mart to the rescue

Yup, Wall-Mart [brand] Herculiner . . . 3 layers every where, 3 additional coats in the wheel wells. Getting ready to [black] paint out the aluminum in the wheel wells to hide 10 years of cruiz'n . . . there's a new "rubberized" matte black paint available now that looks promising.


Doc :beerchug:
 

· Not a waxer
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12,099 Posts
I used Herculiner on my Mk3 but by the time I did the Mk4 Duplicolor had introduced their version called "Bed Armor" so I gave it a try. Performance wise I feel that they are identical but I give the nod to the Duplicolor product simply because it can be cleaned up with soap and water versus the Xylene required for Herculiner.

Jeff
 

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used the duplicolor too they now have it in a waterborne spray, to think of how many brain cells i could of saved, i did try the waterborn and it takes along time to dry.
 

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I did mine one morning in the front yard. Left it there overnight. The next morning I took it back into my garage. Where the body had laid in the hot sun just about killed my grass. Took several weeks for the grass to return to normal.

So be careful where you lay the body to coat it.

Roy from Springboro
 

· 1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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I checked the can today and it's Duplicolor and yes, it's water/latex based. Tough as nails, sticks to the aluminum too and paints on with a brush or roller.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys

ok so you guys are costing me more money.
I guess i will do the undercoat. And big leo, if you got that blonde helping you who the hell cares how long the duplicolor takes to dry.. I have very few brain cells left and would rather spend them on some good vino.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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5,560 Posts
Duplicolor here too, I was able to do it the day after Thanksgiving this year because the temps were so mild. My paint is already done so I didnt want to spray anything. I used the roller a little but mostly the brush because I wasnt able to flip the body over so all the little bits kept flying into my hair from the roller so the brush was the way to go. I did two coats and still have enough to do the aluminum panels in the wheelwells. and will probably give the body another coat in the wheelwells too. Water base makes cleanup a snap! It was about $90 for the kit which comes with the roller, pan, brush and a gallon of paint. Good Luck, its worth it.

Mike
 

· 1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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I assume you want to coat them for protection and then paint them silver? Yes it's paintable once dry. It sticks to itself in additional coats. It has a rough bumpy texture. It think they mixed ground rubber with it for a non slip surface.
 

· Junior Charter Member
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395 Posts
I used an SEM product that was tintable. You mix the color with the product and spray it on. it looks awesome and is extremely durable.
It is a bit expensive but there was no need to paint over it and comes out in a semigloss finish that wipes down easy.

SEM Paints 39650 Truckbed Liner Kit Tintable

DonPNY
 

· Blue Oval Scribe
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9,175 Posts
Lizard Skin user here. Applied via spray equipment and then when dry shot a base of satin black over the whole thing. This way you don't see fiberglass mat in the engine bay, etc and it protects the whole body from rocks, rubbing on the frame, etc.

HTH...
Mark
 

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I flipped the body over and did the whole thing. I did have to remove some of it with a wire brush later .....using a power grinder..... To add the defrost plenum from NorthRaceCars. Should have added that first, but it was not that big a del.
 

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ok so you guys are costing me more money.
I guess i will do the undercoat. And big leo, if you got that blonde helping you who the hell cares how long the duplicolor takes to dry.. I have very few brain cells left and would rather spend them on some good vino.
think of it as saving you money.

and don't forget, you can black out the WHOLE wheel well. elephant ears, exposed aluminum, etc.

my tip is that most (non-spray) undercoating goes on more as a "dab dab dab" - and takes at least two coats to get one "real" coat. they don't brush on well.

cheers,
 
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