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Junior Charter Member
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874 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've come to terms with my unidentified Clutch disengagement issue and I'm pullin it apart tomorrow.

The engine's ready for first start, engine and trans both full of fluid, fuel lines pressure tested, exhause on, all wiring hooked up...
so I've got alot of work either way. I don't have a hoist, just a shop crane, so what's the easiest way to work,

Options are a follows..

1) pull complete engine and trans as one peice.

2) pull the engine and leave the trans in place and try to avoid the impending tans puddle while balancing the trans on the floor jack.

3) drop the trans out the bottom leaving the engine in place supported by the crane.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[ October 13, 2007, 07:16 PM: Message edited by: SC210Ford ]
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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14,785 Posts
The trans will come out the bottom as long as you don't have a scattershield. If you do you will need to pull the engine.
1 is not an option on a finished car.
3 is you best choice.
 

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Senior Member
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1,752 Posts
I had to pull the trans out after the first start because it wouldn't go into reverse. Same setup as you. 306 with a stock bell housing and a T-5. I jacked the engine as far as it would go but the input shaft would not clear the bell housing. I had to cut out the tunnel cross brace right above the tail shaft to allow the rear of the trans to go higher and the front to drop down. There is an area on the bottom of the tailshaft of the trans that has 3 holes. It's about 3/4" x 1/2" by about 4" long. Cut this area off before you put the trans back in. This will allow the front to drop down enough to clear the bell housing if you ever have to remove the trans again.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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1,941 Posts
I got the T5 out of my Mk2 withoug cutting. My tranny tunnel has a removeable top, which helps. Unbolt the tranny and slide it as far back as possible, rotating it as necessary. Now, jack up the back of the engine, lift the back of the tranny while pressing down on the front, and slide it out. Not easy, but easier than pulling the engine.
 

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Charter Member
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996 Posts
I've pulled mine out of my Mk2 just as Ed described above. I was thinking the Mk3's had a removable crossbrace. If that's the case, and you've got a Mk 3, it should be a piece of cake.
 

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Senior Member
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4,318 Posts
I did mine as Ed stated. but it would not clear the bellhousing so I unbolted the bell housing and they all came out together. The tranny will hang up in there when pushed all the way back
 

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Charter Member
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2,135 Posts
If I remember and that is stretch to begin with! I used the engine hoist to pull the engine as far forward as possible in the car with the bell housing attached and was able to slide the tranny out.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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874 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As always thanks for all the great advice guys.

So I left the engine alone except for attaching the hoist to the back of the block to lift the rear and pulled the trans out of the car to discover the clutch disengagement problem.

Here is the problem I found, I have a '95 trans with a Fox bell housing!

The bearing retainer was up against the clutch disk putting pressure against the flywheel, surprisingly it all went together fine when I bolted it all up on the shop floor.

I have no desire to pull the trans apart to change the input shaft so where can I get a '95 bellhousing? FordRacing has several listed, one for a '95 Cobra R, one for Tremec, a safety housing and the fox. None show depth so which one do I need?
 
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