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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.ffcars.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi/ubb/get_topic/f/1/t/079768/p/1.html?

here is my old post. i have 100% given up. maybe the spring is just too old. i really believe i have the spring as tight as humanly possible.

anyway, where can i buy a new handle? i would preferably like one that comes with some sort of easy adjustment. i don't need a fancy one. the leather booot covers it completely. and i want to keep the same (stock) location.

how much is a stock one from the dealer?

[ October 24, 2006, 12:41 PM: Message edited by: NiceGuyEddie ]
 

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Breeze
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
...i don't think that cutting in more teeth will help. it is really, really loose.

i saw the breeze site, but all they seem to have is the handle itself, no spring or adjusting mechanism.
 

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Eddie,
When you pull the handle now does the pulley actually turn? Once you pull it tight and engage the cables you have to make sure the pawl on the adjusting mechanism (not the one that the button disengages) catches at least the first tooth on the pulley. I'll see if I can get a picture later if you are not sure what I'm talking about but there are two pawls and two sets of teeth.

Cheers, Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
rod, yes the pulley turns, and the spring winds up.

i'm all for it if my handle is still salvagaeable.
 

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Here a couple of pics, but if the pulley turns with the handle and it pulls the cable then I don't know how it isn't setting the brake. But if the pawl is engaging the teeth properly then the spring should not wind up (it will turn with the pulley but doesn't get tighter) when you pull the handle. The spring is part of the self adjust mechanism that is only engaged when the handle is in the full down (disengaged position).

These pics are looking at the back side for you since my handle is on the other side of the tunnel. The red arrow points to the teeth that the adjusting pawl engages. Mine is a little different than your since I have rear disks and cut of the top of the pawl (green arrow) and remove the spring so it no longer self adjusts. In the pictures mine has engaged the second tooth but if things are too tight it may stay on the area marked by the blue line (second pic) and would then be spongy since the pawl will slip and coil the spring up more instead of pulling full force on the brake cable.





So lift the handle slightly and then check if the pawl is engaging the teeth or not. If it isn't then you need to lengthen the cable just enough so it grabs the first or second tooth. Once you have that it should work right and, over time as things wear/stretch, catch the next tooth, etc.

HTH, Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i tried this again last night and i totally give up. i am going to wait for my finishing up party.
 

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I just finished doing my ebrake and had a similar issue. I would pull the ebrake and it would barely pull the cable.
what I realized is that you need to pull the cable out with a lot of force and then use that as your latch point. I took a 2ft long pair of needle nose pliers, slipped them over the cable from the ebrake and pryed against the frame. Got another 3 inches to come out.
Re-crimped the cable going to the brakes another 3 inches back and now it works fine.
 

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Eddie not reading thru all the post again but did'nt you make your own cables? Could you have made them too long when installing the new ends?
Also pull a rear drum off car while at same time have some one pull the e brake handle. Watch to be sure all parts are installed correctly and expanding the brake as they should.
Make sure rear brakes are correctlly adjusted by useing the brake adjusting star wheel.
Not doing this will also not let e brake work correctlly.
Your describtion of the problem does not sound like bad brake handle mechanism but problem lies in cable length, or incorrect parts inside drum or un adjusted brake shoes. Mine is stock set up and will hold car fine even when parked on a slight hill.
 

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Eddie

I may have missed this in the earlier post (if so please ignore) but have you adjusted the rear shoes with the drums on?

It doesnt look like you have rebuilt your rear brakes yet. I would clean and lube the rear adjuster to make sure it is working. Snug up the rear drums so they are hard to turn by hand and then work on the cables.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys

i believe i did everything everyone listed. i will write all this down and get back on it at my party next saturday
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i can hardly explain it myself, so i debated whether to write this.

PROF WACKO, TONY W and i worked on it yesterday. we did the pin thing again, shortened the cables again, hooked them up, pulled the handle, just as loose.

from the underside, when you pull the handle, you can see the spring moving, but not the wheel part. all i can say is that with everything put together, we put the pin IN, pulled up on the handle a few times, and the cable snugged up.

now, with the handle only halfway up, the brake is hard as nails.

PROF WACKO adjusted the rear drums a bit, but i don't think that is what made the major difference.

????

wierd stuff
 

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Eddie, That can only mean that the pawl (green arrow in my pics) is not locking into the teeth on the pulley. Puting the pin in will lock the two together so it will work but it will no longe self adjust as the rear pads wear. The pawl is pushed away from the teeth every time you fulley lower the handle which allows the spring to take up any slack in the cable. it then re-engages the teeth as soon as you pull the handle a bit. If the pawl is sticking it will remain disengaged and the wheel will not turn with the handle. Or it is too far up the wheel (blue zone in my pic).

Cheers, Rod
 
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