[Rob Adkins]

I am in the process of collecting everything I need to build my FFR Roadster, but I was wondering if there was a list of the tools needed? I am going the non-donor route with a crate engine and as many new parts as I can find so I am mainly wondering what tools are needed for assembly? I know I will need a good air compressor, rivit gun, drill w/ many 1/8th inch bits, torque wrench, sockets, wrenches... what am I missing? Thanks!

 

[n559br]

Refrigerator - To hold beer for all your friends.
Medical Kit

Otherwise a fairly well stocked mechanics tool box. Make sure you get a compressor with at least a 60 gallon tank. I've been using the air drill and the compressor runs all the time even with a 60 gallon storage tank. I would also recommend som type of storage cabinet to keep all your parts in. This really reduces search time. As you take a part off the donor and clean it put it in the cabinet.

Ben

 

[Sleekcraft Steve]

A bunch of those plastic shelves from Home Depot work well to store parts on.

Good quality 12V or higher cordless drill. I bought a Ryobi and it was worn out by the time I was done drilling rivit holes.

A good jack.

A computer with internet access in your garage so you can access the forums and look at pictures.

 

[rhygin]

The key tools I used:
1) braker bar and 3 ft pipe entension (donor work)
2) Dremel with a lot of the reinforced cutting discs
3) Angle grinder with a grinding and cut off discs
4) Clecos - totally awesome with the AL panels
5) Allen head sockets
6) 3/8" Milwaukee Magnum drill (cordless are fun, this gets it done)
7) your brain

 

[Bob Gassie]

In addition to everything listed above, a drill press and metal cutting band saw are helpful. I have a pneumatic rivet gun but use the hand gun just as often. Aluminum rivets are easy to pull. Riv/nut gun is useful for a couple of applictions...mounting the trim ring around the shifter boot and mounting the inertia switch on the trunk side panel. One more thing, I found that a 90 degree drill is a necessity.

 

[xracerbob]

While not a necessity, I got a rivet-nut kit from McMaster-Carr (#95585A300) for about $85 that I have used a lot. Whenever you want to mount something to the thin wall 3/4" tubing, this works great. These fasteners can also be used in the aluminum panels. I've used them to secure fuel and brake lines and I will be using it for the electrical too.

A good 1/2" impact wrench is very helpful in donor disassembly as well.

 

[Ozona]

Hmm.

Use the build as an excuse to buy as many tools as possible.

 

[John Phillips]

I'd recommend buying a supply of #30 drill bits instead of 1/8" bits. They drill a hole that allows the rivet to be inserted perfectly with no hassle, I think #30 is a couple of thousandths bigger than 1/8". A good vise bolted securely to your workbench is a real help, too.

[ August 02, 2002, 08:59 AM: Message edited by: John Phillips ]

 

[John F]

1) Good set of SAE and Metric wrenches and sockets. Sears kits are fine.
2) Harbor Freight $39 18V cordless drill. Still going strong after 1500+ rivet holes. Also order a pack or two of 20 1/8" bits and throw them away when they start to dull.
3) Jack stands, 6 works nice.
4) Harbor Freight 4 1/2" grinder ($19) to clean up welds.
5) 50 Cleco clamps (1/8) from Aircraft Spruce ($30)
6) Beer

 

[Kostiuk]

John P. is right about using a little bigger drill bit but the size you want is #30. That's .128 dia. versus the .125. It's just enough to make it a whole lot easier. Get a package of them. I spent way too much time sharpening drill bits. Also, order them from someplace like mscdirect.com or mcmaster.com and get a good brand like Chicago Latrobe. Do not get drills at your local Lowes or Home Depot. They suck. I had to resharpen brand new ones to get them to even drill at all.

Make sure you've got a manual riviter in addition to the pneumatic. There are places the pneumatic just won't fit.

 

[Tim Cronin]

don't forget good troque wrenchs...inch #s and Foot #s
TEC

 

[Hal Kolp]

Rick,

You may not need to purchase as much as you think. A compressor is not required at all. Having one would have been helpful if I had air tools but I didn't and hand tools worked fine. I found I needed a few deep sockets (I had none), a rivet gun, a double flaring tool (I'm sure this could be borrowed from someone in your area), misc. drill bits, and a few things I have forgotten. I did buy an hvlp spray system, but to tell you the truth it wasn't required. I'd keep the list as small as possible unless you want a full tool set

 

[cobramd]

May be I'm a little overboard but I found that a cutting torche was invaluable when stripping my donor. mine was hit in the front and once I cut the nose off the engine tranny removal was a one man job. Also helps with spring removal in the front.

 

[Rob Adkins]

Thanks guys! Maybe this should find its way into the FAQ...

 

[Dan Mitchell]

I found a right angle air powered die grinder to be very handy to have. You can use the 2" sanding disks for smoothing the weld, trimming the alum. panels and general grinding of small items. You can also get some carbide burrs if you need to remove evem more mat'l. If you get into a bind you can also use it as a small right angle drill to drill those rivit holes in tight places. Think of it as a dremel tool on steroids.

 

[kadunkadunk]

Originally posted by Ozona:
Hmm.

Use the build as an excuse to buy as many tools as possible.

Yeah, Baby!

 

[TAZ]

12mm 12 point 3/8 Drive Socket is required for the drive shaft. The only socket I've ever purchased simply for one task alone.

And I disagree about Not needing an air compressor and air tools. True it's not physically required but I feel it's essential.

You can get an OK 30 Gal 6 HP direct drive (Cheaper but louder than Belt driven oiler) for under $300 and a decent starter set of air tools for $75 (3/8 Air Ratchet, Impact Wrench, Air Chisel, Grinder, Some Grinder Bits)

It saves time and agravation. Then you want the air rivetor, anybody who puts 500-1000 rivets in by hand has to be insane, I don't care if you can pull a few fairly easily after a while you can't unclench your hand. Air Drills are nice to, at 3000 rpm that #30 bit goes through the Alum Panel and the Steel Frame like butter (I suggest buying at least 6 more likely 12 #30 bits from an airplane equipment supplier, get the cleko's and cleko pliers while your at it and 500 more 1/8 rivets.)

TAZ

 

[John Phillips]

Kevin, thanks for correcting that to a #30 drill bit! I went back and edited the post to accurately name th esize bit. Brain fade brought on by euphoria the other day...got my car registered and picked up the side pipes...hitting the road this weekend!

 

[teamfour]

Tubing bender. Rubber mallet. Digital camera to take pics of aluminum panels as they come from the factory attached to the frame (for future reference).

 

[Ozona]

www.snapon.com

If they've got it, I need it.

(Just kidding...well not really.)