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Discussion Starter #1
is there that big of a difference between the toggle switches on amazon (8 for $10) vs the $5/piece toggles from McMaster-Carr?
I'm sure you get what you pay for, but didn't know if anyone had real-world experience.
 

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Do you REALLY want cheap switches in your car? If you are running anything with the least amount of current thru them (they are not just activating relays), get reliable UL rated switches for the appropriate amperage. Cheap switches usually fail at the contacts and cause over amperage issues or intermittent work-don't-work conditions. Nothing worse than a switch you have to "wiggle" to make it function . . .

Just my 2¢

Doc
 

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If you have the proper switch that handles a proper amperage I think you're fine

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I posted this under another thread, but thought it might be more appropriate under this thread and more searchable.

OK. learning about switches...lots to absorb.
Here is what I'm thinking. Please let me know if something is off/wrong

Headlights on-off DPDT
High beams on-off-(on) DPDT with momentary (on) to flash high beams
Hazard on-off DPDT
Turn signal (on)-off-(on) DPDT
Manual fan override on-off SPST
Ignition toggle off-on-(on) with momentary (on) for ignition from Longacre

Also, what amperage rating should I be looking for?
 

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I take it by this that you are planning to use a toggle for lights rather than a push/pull switch like FFR offers. Be aware that if you do so you're going to want to use a relay for the headlights because of the load (the FFR switch and others like it are rated to carry the load and have an internal self resetting circuit breaker). If you stick with this plan I suggest that you use an OFF/ON/ON for lights with the first detent being used for parking and tail lights and the second energizing them as well as headlights. The headlights and park/tail lights will have to be isolated on different sets of poles. For the high/low beam switch you want to use an ON/ON switch with no OFF position---this way when the headlight circuit is energized you will have either high beams or low beams only. My method for incorporating a high beam flash is to use a separate momentary pushbutton. You don't mention what harness you have but if it's a Ron Francis FFR specific version you can simply add a fan manual override in parallel to the thermo switch because it already incorporates a relay however if you're doing something else it too will need to have a relay like the headlights.

Good luck,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Jeff, I'll look for the factory pull light knob and change the high beam to on- on. Does the SPST vs DPDT stuff look ok?
 

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Before we go on answer what harness and also why the toggle and pushbutton for ignition? You could simplify things by using the keyed ignition switch (or even by incorporating it into a "hybrid" key-toggle-pushbutton arrangement).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, Ron Francis harness, and after thinking about it more, will likely go with keyed ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also realized the hazards should be on/ on so they can blink with the headlights on.
 

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Sorry, Ron Francis harness, and after thinking about it more, will likely go with keyed ignition.
That's probably a wise choice. It will be pretty much plug & play that way.

I also realized the hazards should be on/ on so they can blink with the headlights on.
No, the hazards are totally separate from the headlights. You have to use a double pole switch otherwise left and right would cross feed when a turn signal was activated. FFR provides a DPDT (double pole double throw) ON/OFF/ON switch for the flashers although it really should be a DPST (double pole single throw) ON/OFF switch. They have been providing this same switch for years and the only reason I can come up with is because a DPST is not available in this style to match the other switches they include in the kit but it will work. Take the pink "hazard flasher" feed wire and connect it to BOTH center terminals of the switch. Connect the pigtail from your yellow/green turn signal pair to one of the outside terminals. Connect the pigtail from your blue/white turn signal pair to the other terminal on the SAME end of the switch. This leaves the two terminals on the other end of the switch unused. Done this way the switch will have 2 OFF positions (because there is nothing connected to the other set of terminals) and 1 ON position---it would be OFF/OFF/ON. If you wanted it to have 2 ON positions you could run a jumper from the terminal with the green/yellow to the open terminal on the same side of the other end and do likewise with the blue/white. In that case the center switch position would be off and flipping the switch either direction would turn on the hazard flashers.
Looking at the back of the switch it will be like this:

OPEN--------OPEN
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

OR

Y & G
--------B & W
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

If you choose to find and use a DPST switch it would be wired like so:

PINK---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's probably a wise choice. It will be pretty much plug & play that way.



No, the hazards are totally separate from the headlights. You have to use a double pole switch otherwise left and right would cross feed when a turn signal was activated. FFR provides a DPDT (double pole double throw) ON/OFF/ON switch for the flashers although it really should be a DPST (double pole single throw) ON/OFF switch. They have been providing this same switch for years and the only reason I can come up with is because a DPST is not available in this style to match the other switches they include in the kit but it will work. Take the pink "hazard flasher" feed wire and connect it to BOTH center terminals of the switch. Connect the pigtail from your yellow/green turn signal pair to one of the outside terminals. Connect the pigtail from your blue/white turn signal pair to the other terminal on the SAME end of the switch. This leaves the two terminals on the other end of the switch unused. Done this way the switch will have 2 OFF positions (because there is nothing connected to the other set of terminals) and 1 ON position---it would be OFF/OFF/ON. If you wanted it to have 2 ON positions you could run a jumper from the terminal with the green/yellow to the open terminal on the same side of the other end and do likewise with the blue/white. In that case the center switch position would be off and flipping the switch either direction would turn on the hazard flashers.
Looking at the back of the switch it will be like this:

OPEN--------OPEN
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

OR

Y & G
--------B & W
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

If you choose to find and use a DPST switch it would be wired like so:

PINK---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

Cheers,
Jeff
thanks as always, Jeff
FF parts list shows Hazard switch as a "2 position switch, on-on, DPDT" part #14954
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok. looks like mk4 complete kit has 3 switches included :
on-off-on for turn signal
on-on SPST for high/low beams
on-on DPDT for hazards

I will be using stock keyed ignition, pull head light knob/dimmer, pull heater knob
I'm not running any wipers or seat warmers.
Looking at my dash design the only other switch I'm planning on running is a manual fan override switch.
I'd like all my switches to look the same. I'd love to have a momentary (on)-off-(on) for the turn signal, but would do without I guess.

I guess I have two questions:
1) does any one have the stock duckbill switches (on-on SPST) left over from their build that they'd be willing to part with? I'd rather buy 1 switch than 4 new ones so they match. I can't seem to find the SCI R13-25c switches online. I guess I could call FFR to see if they have extras to sell

and
2) the manual fan switch should be an on-off switch. could I simply make the on-on SPST switch an on-off switch by not hooking a connector to one of the poles?
 

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...

I guess I have two questions:
1) does any one have the stock duckbill switches (on-on SPST) left over from their build that they'd be willing to part with? I'd rather buy 1 switch than 4 new ones so they match. I can't seem to find the SCI R13-25c switches online. I guess I could call FFR to see if they have extras to sell...
Hi, is this what you’re looking for? It’s yours if you’d like it.


IMG_9393.jpg
 

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Hey Jeff,

For the hazards, wouldn't it be better to apply power to one end of the switch and connect the lights to the center of the switch? That way when the switch is in the off position, the terminals with nothing connected to them don't have any power.


PINK - PINK
Y & G - B & W
OPEN - OPEN

John
That's probably a wise choice. It will be pretty much plug & play that way.



No, the hazards are totally separate from the headlights. You have to use a double pole switch otherwise left and right would cross feed when a turn signal was activated. FFR provides a DPDT (double pole double throw) ON/OFF/ON switch for the flashers although it really should be a DPST (double pole single throw) ON/OFF switch. They have been providing this same switch for years and the only reason I can come up with is because a DPST is not available in this style to match the other switches they include in the kit but it will work. Take the pink "hazard flasher" feed wire and connect it to BOTH center terminals of the switch. Connect the pigtail from your yellow/green turn signal pair to one of the outside terminals. Connect the pigtail from your blue/white turn signal pair to the other terminal on the SAME end of the switch. This leaves the two terminals on the other end of the switch unused. Done this way the switch will have 2 OFF positions (because there is nothing connected to the other set of terminals) and 1 ON position---it would be OFF/OFF/ON. If you wanted it to have 2 ON positions you could run a jumper from the terminal with the green/yellow to the open terminal on the same side of the other end and do likewise with the blue/white. In that case the center switch position would be off and flipping the switch either direction would turn on the hazard flashers.
Looking at the back of the switch it will be like this:

OPEN--------OPEN
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

OR

Y & G
--------B & W
PINK
---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

If you choose to find and use a DPST switch it would be wired like so:

PINK---------PINK
Y & G
--------B & W

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That should work too, right? Another way of making an on- on switch on- off.
 

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Have you considered the Russ Thompson turn signal? I ran my car about three times and I just couldnt get used to a turn signal switch and installed RT column switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
going back and forth on the RT turn system.
thinking of putting turn toggle low on the left side just below and outside the tach.
where have others put the stock chrome headlight switch/knob?
I remember reading to put it on the left side of the wheel, but there's very limited space there given the large size of the switch behind the dash. I was going to put it just next to the opening for the steering column but the frame is in the way there.
 

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...thinking of putting turn toggle low on the left side just below and outside the tach.
where have others put the stock chrome headlight switch/knob?
I remember reading to put it on the left side of the wheel, but there's very limited space there given the large size of the switch behind the dash. I was going to put it just next to the opening for the steering column but the frame is in the way there.
I usually put turn signal and headlight high/low to the left of the wheel (BTW; every one I have built uses a Signal Dynamics electronic self canceling turn turn signal module but that's a subject for another discussion if you're interested). Using the factory made holes to the right of the wheel with a pre-cut dash I go horn>ignition>headlight switch. When adding a toggle for manual fan control I put it to the right of the headlight switch.

Jeff
 
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