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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We have been going crazy for days on figuring out why our transmission (TKO 600) will shift fine into all the gears when it is not attached to the drive shaft and once the driveshaft is inserted and bolted to the rear it wont shift anymore!

WE NEED HELP!

PS we did change to a mid-shifter if that helps



UPDATE!
Just got it working, but now my clutch does not engage, i can turn on the car in first gear and the wheels spin but me pressing the clutch makes no difference
 

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Stuck Clutch

How long has the car been sitting with the tranny installed on the engine? I had the same problem and turned out the pressure plate had stuck to the flywheel leaving the car always engaged. My car had been sitting for over a year without running. I had the car up on jack stands and ran the car in 5th gear and then jammed on the parking brake while keeping the clutch in. It freed it up after the 4th or 5th try. Good Luck!

Squid
 

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i think this is an easy fix-- i bet your clutch was not disengaging (disconnecting) all along-- which can and will prevent the tranny from shifting, as you need some free play.
So-- if it wasnt , and still isnt, and the cable is tight, you will need to adjust the shift fork. __ you will need to screw the balljoint outwards in the bell a few turns-- I bet if you look down at the shift fork when you arent pressing the clutch, it is beyond 9oclock (with the engine at 12oclock). Mike forte helped me with mine-- i am at about 8 oclock without pressing the clutch, and when i press i swing to about 930 or 10oclock.


This is assuming a clutch cable and conventional bell.
 

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Squid is correct about a stuck clutch creating a binding problem. Assuming your pressure plate is releasing (watch the clutch arm) .Try this, with both rear wheels off the ground and your drive shaft hooked up and clutch pedal depressed see if you can get it to go into gear buy rocking the wheels back and forth. If the trans shifts your clutch disc is stuck. If it turns out to be a stuck disc follow the above recommendations to break it free. A lot of guys that store their cars for extended periods cut a small section of 2x2 braced against the bottom of the seat to depress the clutch pedal slightly so it releases the clutch disc.
If your car is in neutral with the drive shaft installed with wheels off the ground and you can rotate the drive shaft the binding is on the input side.
HTH
CB
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks

Thanks for the help I will try tomorrow morning, my clutch fork is in fact at 9 or so. Started the kit in August, but assembled engine, clutch,bell housing, and transmission 2 months ago. Took transmission in and out 3 times this week, car hasn't left garage yet!
Again thanks everyone for the help
 

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Hi Giammi,
If you want to call me anytime I'll try to figure out what's not working right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What a mess!

So i have removed the transmission and moved the ball joint closer to the engine by adding a lock washer. I still have the same problem! Now I am trying to pull the ebrake (while the car is running in 1st or 3rd gear) as suggested. Obviously when i pull the ebrake the rpms drop, if the clutch pedal is pushed all the way down i can hear a scratching noise coming from bellhousing similar to the one produced by the brakes pads when slightly contacting the rotors. When i dont push the clutch pedal the sound stops.

Mike as Please please somebody save me!
 

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Hi Giammi,
From what you just wrote it sounds like the pressure plate is being traveling so the pressure plate fingers are contacting the clutch dis. Do depress the clutch pedal so far down and see if the clutch fully disengages and the scratching sound goes away.
 

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Two thoughts occur to me. One is that the clutch disc is installed backwards which results in binding when the clutch is depressed (screeching noise). I've done this wrong back in the day and it sounds like you are describing. The other possibility is that the clutch spring assembly does not clear your pressure plate. The second one is a remote possibility and if you got the clutch disc and pressure plate from the same source ignore this one. On the bright side those screeching sounds have got to have left evidence of the interference you are having. (More ideas) You have to get the geometry right with a clutch assembly, correct pivot ball, clutch fork, bearing (double check the install procedure). If you take it all apart and verify part fitment it should work properly. While you have it apart make sure the input shaft is not slightly bent which some times happens when you hang to much of the tranny weight on the input shaft before the trans gets fully seated. Also check the pilot bearing to see if it is correct for the trans. It is a process of elimination and you will get it figured out.
Best of luck:
Keep in touch:
HTH
CB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Aaaaaahhhhhhhhh

Sorry for the late reply CB
I am completely desperate, i have not put the car on its wheels yet. This is the first car i have ever built and its been an incredible project and experience but this clutch problem has had me stuck for months!
Before i start the car i put it in gear (I'll try to put it into 3rd gear one day and it works great, try the day after and i cant get 3rd gear in! Same with the remaining gears), then when i start pulling the ebrake the engine revs up and you can see the TKO vibrating, then when i press the clutch pedal the vibrations (in the TKO 600) stop but the wheels are still engaged and if i pull the ebrake enough the engine dies. When i have the ebrake pulled and fully press the clutch pedal then you can hear the screeching noise coming from the bell-housing but if the ebrake isn't engaged then no more screeching.

How do i know if i put the clutch backwards?
Any other ideas


Thanks everyone for the help so far!
 

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Hi Giammi,
Does the clutch fully disengage? You can still call me with questions.
 

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One thing I noticed is that you haven't had the car on the ground yet. You may want to check to see if your drive shaft angle is correct. With the trans in neutral try to spin the rear tires by hand with the car on the jack stands. If they will not turn or will turn but with a good bit of effort then the drive shaft is binding. If they do turn but it takes a good bit of effort then watch the tail shaft of the trans while turning the tires. If its moving up and down then the drive shaft is binding. This could cause the shifting problem and the vibration you are experiencing while running. You will have to change the angle of the differential to correct this or move the trans tail shaft up or down with spacers or a different mount. As far as the grinding sounds it could be a defective clutch, clutch alignment, a bent input shaft on the trans, stuck clutch, or the clutch disk in backwards, or the wrong type of clutch and pressure plate ( borg and beck in place of a long style). Is the throw out bearing installed correctly? It could be in backwards. Is the pilot bearing installed? If not then the input shaft could be deflecting to one side and bind the clutch. Is the clutch adjusted with enough free play? I set mine to release at one half to three quarters of pedal travel. If the release point is too close to the floor the clutch may not be disengaging fully and cause hard shifting and grinding. HTH
 

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Hi Giammi,
Lets start back when you problem began. you said you could not shift once you installed the drive shaft. Have you removed the drive shaft and tried shifting?
If you bought a new trans from Mike F. they usually come with a tail shaft insert to keep grease from leaking out. did you remove the seal/plug. It is possible to insert the drive shaft with this seal in place which would possibly cause some binding.
Do you have the correct pilot bearing for this transmission input shaft?
Did the flywheel and clutch bolt up easily with all surfaces seating properly?
I had a some what similar situation when I installed my midshifter as well. It's been so long ago (10 years) I think I had to remove the shiftre and reinstall after talking to Forte. Something was binding??
Memory loss sorry!
Bob Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally!!

As most of u suggested the plate was in backwards! putting it down tomorrow!
thanks for the help everyone!
 

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Glad you have found the problem. It is a learning experience. I once changed the clutch in my 1 Ton truck which ,I had done a couple of times, had the flywheel refaced and decided to replace the flywheel ring gear while I had it apart. Starter would not engage, went to NAPA got a new starter, still not working WTF. Took it back apart and lo and behold the first part I put back together was wrong I carefully installed the ring gear on the wrong side of the flywheel. Only took about 16 hrs to fix it (a 4 speed in a 1 ton truck is a PITA to remove and install). Anyone who does their own work will make a mistake ,it happens
, at least you did not spend big$$ to get your local dealer to do it but do not get me started on that one.
Have fun:
CB
 

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Discussion Starter #17
SOO Close

I know what you mean CB; but its rewarding once u figure it out!
we are trying to put tko 600 back in but something is not aligned and we definitely had it aligned before we started trying. Took a picture of the inside, what is the best way to realign this?

The aligner tool wont go all the way in
 

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Slide the alignment tool in, then have someone push in on the clutch, finish pushing in the tool, let out clutch remove tool.
 
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