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Sr FFR builder
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seeing that I have not used the manual since the first week of building car, I felt that I should review the instructions for the 600.00 windshield. My question is: Are the instructions in the FFR manual sufficient? Are there any good tips or caveats that I should know? Thanks
 

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Put the mirror in first.

Don't forget that you will have to cut the supports at the bottom. I put my windshield in and marked the supports, then removed the whole assembly and took it apart for cutting.

Dennis B.
 

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Uh, don't drop it? :D

SRP recommends always changing the brass strip out for a stainless one, to prevent the side mount screws from stripping. Does anyone remember the proper forum vendor for ordering these stainless strips offhand? You might want to grab a set -- I'm planning to.

Cheers, John
 

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When you fit the windshiled to the chassis, make sure that the body does not touch the support posts as they pass through the slots.

If the fiberglass actually touches the windshield support posts, especially on the inside, it will add stress to the screws that hold the windshield frame to the support posts and lead to a possible stripping of the threads in the brass strips.
 

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Sr FFR builder
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by dukegrad98:
SRP recommends always changing the brass strip out for a stainless one, to prevent the side mount screws from stripping. Does anyone remember the proper forum vendor for ordering these stainless strips offhand? You might want to grab a set -- I'm planning to.

Cheers, John
John, I already have a set of the stainless strips and I got them from Larry Davidson.
 

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Sr FFR builder
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by Cobradude:
Don't forget that you will have to cut the supports at the bottom. I put my windshield in and marked the supports, then removed the whole assembly and took it apart for cutting.

Dennis B.
Did you have to cut both supports? The manual said to cut only one side
 

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When you're marking the holes to drill in the supports, be sure to press down on the top of the windshield to compress the rubber on the bottom to ensure a tight seal. If I remember there's about a 1/4" of play. You want to be sure there's no gaps at the posts between the rubber and the body.
 

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Larry's SS sides are now available from Whitby, definitely worth getting as they make the WS much stronger and you don't have to worry as much about people tugging on it when getting out - still a NO NO, but not as much of a problem if you don't catch them in time.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Larry's address is posted in the vendor section.
http://www.cobra-brass-to-stainless-windshield.com/

Larry also did a great job for me on my removable steering wheel with TriStates turn signal and he did the mod on my IRS upper control arms so they are adjustable. Great Guy!
 

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If I remember right (it was a year ago now) the passenger side was hitting the top of the footbox. Anyway, I cut it enough so it wasn't extending down below the plate that it's bolted to just so it looks better.

The driver's side had to be shortened quite a bit.

After paint when I reinstalled the windshield, I decided not to screw in the little aluminum escutcheon plates that sit over the support holes. I just secured them with a little silicone.

Have fun.......

Dennis B.
 

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You might have to trim both sides of the winshield posts. Definitely the passenger side and a little bit from the driver's side in my case.

When test fitting I only had the passenger side post trimmed, but I could only achieve a 58-59 degree rake in the winshield. Since I couldn't set my winshield at 53 degrees (recommended angle for installing a Whitby soft top), I did two things:
1) trimmed about an inch from the driver's side post (it contacted the FFR 3/4" frame inside the driver footbox as I tried to tilt back the winshield)
2) opened up the winshield cut out in the fiberglass body just a little bit more on the rear edge of the cut out

Highly recommend test fitting your winshield with all of the body, doors, trunk, and hood installed at the same time prior to paint.

Be VERY VERY careful installing the center rod support mentioned above in Mike's post. Ask around and make sure you get the correct sized and EXACT length screws or you will crack a brand new winshield. Don't ask how I know about this...

Most everyone screws the rear view mirror through the cowl/dash area to the chassis per the FFR manual. This flattens the cowl/dash area for a better winshield fitment and changes the door fitment. On #3928, the winshield fitment was so good, my painter and I elected not to use the rear view mirror & screws to hold the body down. It gives a slightly more "arched" look to the body in the cowl/dash area and looks good with the rolled cockpit edges that we've done to my FFR body. I'll be using a mirror from FinishLine that attaches to the winshield support rod (it's adjustable along the rod and I can choose to mount it higher where I think I'll actually get some use out of it).

The stainless inserts are a good Idea and I'm seriously considering using these items as the brass is soft (don't force the screw or over-tighten otherwise you will strip the threads).

Hope this helps answer your questions.

Drew
FFR#3928
 

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Suggest makeing sure you make the final fit and trim to the body prior to fititng the windshield. Found the drivers door had a terrible fit, and had to shim out the body a lot at the rear of the door. The body also rubbed at the front of the door to the chassis at the same time. This was cured a little by shimming up the body on top of the dash hoop, which pulled in the top front edge. It makes a change in the fit of the windshield as well. Be sure you are ahappy with all the fit of body panels before even starting the windshield, or you may be drilling off center of the correct location.
 
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