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Slacker Extraordinaire
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2,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to make my throttle cable pull from the fron to avoid the big "S" bend and have seensuggestions that it works. I am connecting the cable to the bottom hole as seen in this pic (not my carb)



However, the linkage the cable is connected to at the top is not a solid piece to the bottom. It is 2 pieces activated by a tab from one to the other. There is some play before the bottom linkage starts to move (1/4") when the cable is pulled at the top. Is this an issue or should i just ignore it and just connect to the bottom?

Thanks

A

Holley street avenger 670 81670
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
On the carb pictured if you notice the hole at top,it's were the throttle would normally conect. Hole at bottom is for return spring. Both would work with one operateing in the opposite direction. If you are getting "slop" when trying to pull from the bottom you are useing the wrong throttle hook up and probally trying to connect to the linkage instead of throttle shaft. Connected in the right place it will have no slop. You need to maybe add a extension so it reaches low enough or try different conection point.It needs to be on the same piece of metal that is connected to the end of the throttle shaft,not a piece of linkage to the secondarys.
 

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Charter Member
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2,649 Posts
Hozr,
Here is my solution I used with my holley.
The linkage really works great! It's a lot smoother having eliminated one to the 180 degree bends.
The P/N is #1512 Carburetor Bushing - universal, made by Mr.. Gasket Cc. in the Jegs catalogue. Here are a few installation tips.
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I had to drill the barrel of the bushing slightly larger in diameter to accept the Lokar sheath end. I also had to add 2 small washers to move the barrel of the bushing away from the carb bracket so the cable sheath adjusting nuts wouldn't hit the car bracket, allowing the assembly to pivot smoothly as you stepped on the accelerator. After adding the two washers to the bushing, I then ran of threads for the self locking nut to hold the assembly securely to the carb bracket correctly. To fix that minor problem I put the nut in my drill press vise and drilled a 1/16" hole thru the nut hex flats. Then I installed everything on the carburetor and adjusted the nut to where everything rotated freely but with minimum slop, then I drilled thru the stud using the hole in the nut as a pilot. I then installed a 1/16" cotter pin to keep the nut from backing off.
Here are a few pictures. The bracket is made out of aluminum bar stock that I drilled a few weight "lightening" holes. I'm using a K&N dropped 14" filter. The cable/sheath does not hit the base plate at all when it travels

Hope this helps. Email me if you have more questions.
Bob Mac
FFR3981

 

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Slacker Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
interesting, hadn't thought of securing the cable and pulling with the sheath. Back to the drawing board!!

Thanks
 

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Senior Charter Member
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651 Posts
Bob,

Very nice setup and a clear explanation. I am going to try this. A couple of questions:

1) How long is your throttle cable? Did you trim it to the correct length?

2) How did you route the cable from the footbox to the loop - i.e. did you secure it anywhere? How does it clear the headers? Any pics on that?

3) Looks like a Lokar throttle spring and bracket with no mods - correct?

Thanks for the time you spend on the forum with these ideas. They really help us non-enginnering guys build a better car.
 

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CobraMD,
Here is a picture of the routing. It goes over the steering shaft, at least on an MKII. I believe I purchased a 48" cable before I decided to change the routing around. I cut the sheath down a couplt of inches, actually I measured it the other day for another member and the sheath is 40". Take the cable out of the sheath and wrap masking tape around the area to be cut. Use a hack saw with very fine teeth, or a sharp cold chiesel, or cur off wheel cutting thru the tape. The sheath will slide into the end fittingthis will help keep the sheet from fraying.I used the Lokar throttle spring and bracket.
Hope this helps,
Bob Mac
FFR3981

 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,659 Posts
Bob , did you have to cut back or remove the throttle stop tab from the pivot attachment plate for the cable to pivot or is the cable resting on it ? Not evident in the photo . Thanks.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,710 Posts
Before you re-engineer this too much- get rid of the braided lokar cable and replace w/ the black lokar cable.I just did this on my car and it works perfectly w/ the double 180 deg bends.The 36 inch is fine.W/ the braided unit, when trying to go to full throttle, the effort just got higher and higher until it was near full open but you could never feel any solid stop.Just a tremendous increase in effort.The black cable solved the problem!
 

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The Traveler
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3,106 Posts
Am giving Bob's throttle cable a try! Nice idea!
Minor changes I made...
1) I have a Mark I chassis with Russ's throttle arm. I had to remove the welded on plate for the old throttle arm in order to get enough travel.
2) I also threaded the Carburetor Bushing that Bob references above.
3) I found that I also had to lower the hole for the cable about 1 1/2 inch lower than in the original position.
4) I also had to grind just a little off the sides of Russ's throttle arm to allow for a cable connector to fit.

In the end I had a very similar fit to Bob's design.



A very smooth throttle and full carb throttle plate opening! I'm getting ready to open her up soon as I'm over 500 miles on the new engine. No leaks, no noises, no runs, and oil still looking really clean!
 

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What P/N do I need for the carb bracket where the cable end would secure to?

Thanks,
 
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