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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any reason I couldn't fab a 'solid' throttle cable? By solid I mean solid sleeve not solid cable (versus stranded cable). I was thinking about using something like stainless or aluminum tubing (like brakeline) and bending it to follow a path that I like from the firewall to the throttle body (keeping the bend radii pretty generous to avoid binding) and bracing it on both ends and at several places along the run. I figured I'd 'fill' the tube with dry teflon lube and liberally coat the cable before inserting it. Then I'd just need to crimp the correct ends on the cable and hook it up.

I tried searching the interwebs but I couldn't find anything similar though I imagine that's because a solid cable woud be a pain in the butt in the production automotive world. I figured if it was dangerous or stupid one of you guys would have already tried it and could help set me straight (jk).
 

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The tubing isn't strong enough for the purpose you're intending. Why not replicate the original throttle linkage? many have done it, it's easy, and looks awesome!
 

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A standard throttle cable is a stranded cable trapped inside a somewhat flexible casing. Once installed, the outer shell is often fixed in placed.

What you propose is easy to do, and would work. BUT... you're using a solid object (the tubing) to connect two objects (engine and chassis) that will be moving/vibrating at different rates, amplitudes, and frequencies. Eventually, it will fracture.

There are ways around that, though. Treat it as two seperate pieces of tubing - and engine side and a chassis side. Both sides need to be supported at each end of the tube. Then connect them with something flexible, like braided AN line.

This is exactly why many factory exhaust systems include a braided flexible section.
 

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I just tackled the mechanical throttle linkage, it's cheap to do and simple.

Have a look at threads here.

Midwest controls didn't have the lever in stock but I was able to pick them up from a speed shop.

Total cost was under $100 and its a good looking mod.

Vic


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I forgot about needing a flexible section between the firewall and the engine. I keep shying away from the linkage because it looks like a complicated way for me to introduce a bunch of failure points. I'll go back and look at some of the threads again. Maybe I'm making too much of it.

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Just finished gathering the parts for a mechanical linkage for my Mk4 project. Several parts from McMaster, arms from Speedway, and the rest are hardware store items. It's very straightforward and relatively simple compared to many of the tasks. I went through all the threads on the topic, and adapted to my build. I can share the actual parts list I used if that helps. Just don't have it in front of me right now.
 

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It's this easy, add a couple 3/8 locking collars and 2 throttle control levers from eBay to these parts which can be bought at a hardware store.
Metal Brass Lock Hardware accessory


I used 5.8cobra's thread as my starting point. Most threads point you to Midwest controls for the levers but they are out of stock so I did a search on google and found a speed shop to ship them. Canada, it seems everything requires shipping from somewhere

Vic


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Lokar universal cable would let you route it how you like too. I went too short the first time and am not happy with it. It does seem like I recall some people having issues with a particular version of it though. If I had a carb, I would do solid linkage for the cool factor.
 

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My AED bracket and Lokar cable work great for me. Bracket allows me to adjust the return spring pressure and I have never had it hang up. I went with the longest Lokar cable to avoid tight bends and then trimmed it to the length I wanted, it's held on with just two clamps along the top side of the foot box. It's a very solid set-up, I spent a lot of time making sure everything operated smoothly with the carb on but the fuel system not attached so I could pump away and fine tune all of the alignment to get as smooth a throttle action as possible (I found that more return spring pressure was better than less). The top cable in this shot is the manual choke cable which I converted over to control the fast idle on the other side of the carb.

Engine Auto part Fuel line Motor vehicle Vehicle
 
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