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You got this then. I'm 61 and came out great was back in gym in bout 6 weeks. Going heavy again in 8. Good prayers and good docs. And right frame of mind. You got this bro. Youngster..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Just wanted to let you guys know that the surgery this morning was a complete success and complication free. So, hopefully, in a few weeks I'll be able to start doing very light duty work again. Thanks loads for the help thus far!
 

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I had disk surgery in 1983 and have had no problems since. As has been said listen to your Dr's and don't rush your recovery.
JR
 
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Awesome to hear buddy. Lay around a few days and chill. Do not rush it even when you're feeling froggy. Doc wanted me to move around some each day to keep blood flowing, so after a week and a checkup, I figure, because I'm a real smart guy, Hey I'm doing good here so I go for a walk with my wife. We get back, and I was la little sore but felt good. Next day I'm by myself finally after a few weeks so I figure, walk around the pond. (That's where the I'm a real smart guy thing comes into play ). I get back a mile and a half later, thought my back was falling out. Had a very bad night. I kept my walks closer to home from then on. And had to kneecap the neighbor for ratting me out to my wife. The back didn't hurt as bad as my ears did after her speech. Couldn't believe they ratted me out. I had already learned my lesson though. Baby steps, and you're back to life . Took 2 mos and the walks and light gym and I was back on the scooter. Glad you're good now. Baby steps... always the baby steps, and those Docs somewhat know what they are talking about. Listen..
 
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Discussion Starter #106
That's quite the story, Busa. Sounds like you might still be scarred from it. My fiancée would tear me a new one if she found out I hurt myself even further while recovering, so I'm making a point to take it slow.

I'm taking this recovery period as a good time to beef up some of my research and mods knowledge base. Right now I am looking at copying someone else's dashboard design and going with a mahogany veneer, instead of the crummy black vinyl. I saw edwardb post good information on how he did his custom dash, but I've discovered a slight issue. In order to get the aluminum dash, I can either get it pre-cut with no glovebox or no cuts at all. I think I like the standard street layout from FFR, so I'm considering changing my selection to the pre-cut, but I really want to have a glove box and it seems I am not able to buy that separately. Do you guys have any suggestions on the best way to either build my own glove box or buy one that is premade?

Somewhat related to this is the firewall forward topic. For my setup, would the firewall forward mod be necessary? What's the reason people typically install that mod?

361531
 

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Gladyoure good buddy. I have some carbon fiber and am going to attempt to make my own. We will see how that all works out..
 
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Discussion Starter #108
Alright guys, so my back is doing well enough that I will be able to at least be out in the garage directing my brother-in-law what to do. I think I am going to try to run the remaining fuel lines and then possibly working on some chassis wiring. Two questions:

1. Any recommendations on double flaring tool for the steel hard fuel lines? The Harbor Freight one I had for copper brake lines broke and I'm struggling to find a tool that can handle the steel without sliding down the line. It's infuriating!
2. Where do you recommend I start with the wiring with the state the car is currently in?
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Thanks Jeff. Great info, as usual
 

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How come? I have been bubble flaring my lines so far. I guess I don't fully understand the difference between single and double?

Edit: Nevermind, I looked it up. I have been doing a bubble flare, but that should still be alright seeing as it will work with a compression fitting, right? I'll be sure to single flare only, but from my research, I've found that only a single flare is necessary, but a double will not hurt since it is just rated for high compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Start wiring with the fuse block and main harness then work outward.
Are there any components I need to order prior to the wiring or is everything I need included in the harness?

FYI, I don't think I'm going to do the RT turn signal stalk. I wanna save my money; besides, I'm used to manually switching the turn signals from riding my motorcycles in the past, so I'm not bothered by not having that creature comfort.
 

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consider ordering some weatherpack connectors for your front/rear lights. it'll make it much easier to hook up later. mike everson sells a kit or you could order your own connectors and pins. I'd recommend getting the correct crimping tool. there's a generic one on amazon that is much cheaper than the delco tool.
i'd also consider getting the self canceling turn module from signal dynamics. my turn switch is a momentary on-off-on switch and the module will turn off your blinker after a prescribed period of time, depending on how long you activate the switch. I have a separate hazard momentary push button switch under my dash or you can get a couple of momentary push button switches for your left and right signals and activate your hazards by pushing both buttons at the same time (simultaneous activation of left/right signal activates hazards).
if you're going barebones on the build, at the very least get some good butt end connectors with heat shrink built in or solder your connections and cover with heat shrink wrap.
check out my build thread around post #340
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
God tips, Chewy. I already ordered the weathercock connectors, just need to order the tool and other items you mentioned.

Great news! One of the POL shipments came in and it included the cockpit aluminum, door latches, wheels, pedal box parts and Wilwood firewall! Wish it included the steering rack, too, but oh well. I'll be working on some of this today and tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I've been slowly chipping away at this build. The last 2 days I've installed the pedal box. and mostly installed Forte throttle linkage. I'm holding off cutting anything until I get the engine in and can fit the positioning of the throttle pedal and throttle body. I've also installed the front SS braided brake lines. So tonight's task will be working on the hard lines for the brakes.
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Question: I've done my best to make these panels fit flush, but no matter the configuration I used, I could not make this gap any smaller. Any tips how to handle this? Should I just load it up with silicone when I rivet it into place?
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Discussion Starter #117
So I posted a question a few days ago or so that I never got an answer to. I was hoping to get a little input on that, but if not, I figure I could just glob up the silicone when I rivet the panels in. I just kind of hate the look of it from inside the engine bay.
 

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Silicone, persuasion with a dead blow hammer, or using a SS rivet that might pull the panels together are all options i can think of.
 
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Leave some clecos in place on the passenger half of the firewall to keep it in place on the chassis but remove any that are on the driver's side half. Rivet the upper part of the footbox side to the firewall then start working the firewall back to the chassis. Things will kind of "spring & flex" to find a happy place.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Excellent advice guys. Thanks so much.
 
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