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Hmm very temping. However, there is a guy who lives near me who has an MKIII with the same engine as mine and he's commented on how he can barely get the engine up to temp most days and he doesn't even have his oil cooler hooked up. I'll definitely keep this in the back of my mind in case I need it, but I think I may pass for right now in an effort to save a little money.

Well I guess I have the Wilwood pedal box, that's on backorder like many other things, so I'll be sure to remove that panel I installed and drilled and "toss it in the bin".
save the panel. you might find needs for the sheet aluminum down the road. I had to make a larger block off plate for my fuel pick up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Noted on both accounts. In the interest of planning ahead, does anybody know the approximate square footage for all of the paneling in this car? I know it's a bit early, but I'm looking at insulation and am considering a number of different options. I found this thread What is today's preferred cockpit insulation and would like to know roughly the dimensions so I can price out what I need.
 

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Count me confused.. you don't want to put on a fan shroud, to save some money, but you want to buy insulation for an open top car????? The sun beating down on you isn't going to change with insulation under the carpet.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Haha fair point, but the insulation is more for NVH and to make the car sound less tinny. I am on the fence about the shroud, though. Honestly, I'll probably end up pulling the trigger on the mounts and shroud when push comes to shove.
 

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Noted on both accounts. In the interest of planning ahead, does anybody know the approximate square footage for all of the paneling in this car? I know it's a bit early, but I'm looking at insulation and am considering a number of different options. I found this thread What is today's preferred cockpit insulation and would like to know roughly the dimensions so I can price out what I need.
I bought 2 boxes of Kilmat on amazon and a roller. enough to do the entire car and trunk.
consider making cardboard templates of your footbox aluminum before installing it so that you can easily cut your insulation to size when it comes time.
others have luck with spray on materials.
IMO the insulation helps w/ not only heat but also rattles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I was looking at the Koolmat kit that Breeze sells, as well as the LizardSkin spray. The spray certainly looks to be the easiest, but probably most expensive. Do you know what coverage each kit gave you? They sell a number of different sizes now. And what do you think of Kilmat in comparison to the others?
 

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I've built a bunch of roadsters with a variety of engines and every one has gotten a Breeze fan shroud (I make my own top and bottom mounts). 90 plus degree days in stop and go traffic and none have ever had overheating problems. If your friend cant get his up to temp it's a thermostat problem, not because he has too much radiator or too much fan. But what do I know...

Jeff
 

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I was looking at the Koolmat kit that Breeze sells, as well as the LizardSkin spray. The spray certainly looks to be the easiest, but probably most expensive. Do you know what coverage each kit gave you? They sell a number of different sizes now. And what do you think of Kilmat in comparison to the others?
this is what I got. 2 boxes. I have no basis of comparison with other products.
 

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I've built a bunch of roadsters with a variety of engines and every one has gotten a Breeze fan shroud (I make my own top and bottom mounts). 90 plus degree days in stop and go traffic and none have ever had overheating problems. If your friend cant get his up to temp it's a thermostat problem, not because he has too much radiator or too much fan. But what do I know...

Jeff
what he said...wrong thermostat if he can't get it up to temp.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·

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Has the Kilmat held up well over the years? Does the car sound solid and rattle free? How much did you have leftover? I like the idea of the LizardSkin, but I'm too cheap to spend that much money. I'd like to keep it under $300, ideally under $200 for all insulation materials
i'm still in the go kart phase, so my experience is limited. so far the side pipes are more noisy than anything else, so that likely drowns out any of the rattles that i'd otherwise be able to hear. i'm looking into muffler inserts to augment the decibel/timbre of the side pipes, but at the end of the day will likely be wearing ear plugs when driving this thing. I have maybe a third of a box left over after insulating the entire cockpit, trunk, and drop trunk mod.
 

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...I'd like to keep it under $300, ideally under $200 for all insulation materials
As Rich said the heat comes from that big orange ball in the sky and any holes you left in the firewall and between the body and cockpit. If you don’t leave anything loose you won’t have rattles! Go to Lowes and pick up a couple rolls of Reflectix foil insulation, 2 or 3 cans of 3M Super 77 adhesive and a roll of foil HVAC tape for under a hundred bucks. It’ll damp out the “tinniness” of the aluminum and provide enough heat barrier that the carpet never gets beyond lukewarm (remember what I said about the big orange ball!). That’s how I do every one I build...but I could be wrong;)

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
As Rich said the heat comes from that big orange ball in the sky and any holes you left in the firewall and between the body and cockpit. If you don’t leave anything loose you won’t have rattles! Go to Lowes and pick up a couple rolls of Reflectix foil insulation, 2 or 3 cans of 3M Super 77 adhesive and a roll of foil HVAC tape for under a hundred bucks. It’ll damp out the “tinniness” of the aluminum and provide enough heat barrier that the carpet never gets beyond lukewarm (remember what I said about the big orange ball!). That’s how I do every one I build...but I could be wrong;)

Jeff
Haha I appreciate the candor. I see your logic with tightening everything down. I guess I'm referring to what others have stated about how it might sound tinny and cheap. I plan on using ample silicone between every mating surface on the panels to ensure a nice solid seal with everything. Mike Forte made a good point on the phone with me that these NE summers aren't usually so bad where you would feel much heat at all radiating from the car. I guess what I'm envisioning are the days when I rode air cooled motorcycles with full gear on sweating my a** off at a stop light from the gear and the heat of the engine. So it sounds like anything is good enough for my purposes compared to nothing.

Speaking of panels, I heard that it's also wise to anodize the panels because of corrosion, is this a thing that's really worth doing??
 

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I’ve been involved with these cars since 2001 and have yet to see one that suffered from corrosion. Sure, uncoated or untreated aluminum panels will oxidize and dull but not corrode unless they’re exposed to some chemical elements. If you like the look of anodized aluminum go for it but it isn’t necessary. I’d sooner spend 50 bucks on something functional (like a fan shroud) than I would several hundred for anodizing :p

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Ok whew! I was hoping that was just a really picky thing that only certain people do. I'd prefer to leave my panels bare, I actually kind of like the clean look. I don't mind them looking a little oxidized. Worst case, there's likely enough space around the panels to be able to clean them every so often, if necessary. Fan shroud it is, then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
"I'm referring to what others have stated about how it might sound tinny and cheap."
You need to get off the superformance site that bashes FFR's
I’m only on The Factory Five Forum and this one. So it’s part of our community that is saying this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Because of so much I've had to skip, I'm on the part where I begin installing the passenger footbox panels. Is it safe to actually begin riveting and siliconing things in place or should I hold off until a specific point?
 

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I generally drill, fit and Cleco in place but wait to make permanent installation until after brake and fuel lines are run and electrical is in place. This way you can remove panels as needed to simplify access.

Jeff
 
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