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Discussion Starter · #401 ·
It’s entirely possible the setup I had previously was resulting in some weird behavior. I slapped those headers on temporarily just to pass inspection while Georgie made me some new ones. I just used copper liquid gasket and had only 4 bolts on each holding it together. When I took them off, it was obvious there was some exhaust leaking. I now have a real gasket on there that Georgie shipped with these headers. I’ll monitor the situation and give them a temp test soon.
What would you consider a significant difference? +\-5 degrees or more than that?
 

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From distant memory I think a 5% to 10% variance is acceptable. Others may chime in. It's not an exact science, and many variables come into play...accurate measuring distance runner to runner, air flowing past a runner (rad fan), length of individual runner and so on....when tested on a dyne engine builders have temp probes strategically placed into each runner for lab accurate results....
 

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Discussion Starter · #404 ·
Will do guys, thanks. Could possibly explain some intermittent performance in getting before it gets to 80*C
 

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Discussion Starter · #405 ·
Still worrying away at the carpeting. If you get little bits of the spidery 3M90 spray on the carpet, any good advice for removing it? Apparently, I’m not very good at spraying this stuff, even when I use cardboard
 

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I used mineral spirits to remove any overspray.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
Noted. Thanks guys.

So last night I cranked away more at the carpeting and took a stab at my tunnel cover, but my stupid a** forgot to put the shifter hole plate in place! Grrr!!! So I’ll need to redo this at some point so I can get the shifter boot installed.

Tonight I am putting the body back on so I can take it for alignment tomorrow. I’ll finish the carpeting this weekend or next week. I’m debating just carpeting over the tunnel, but I do like the look of vinyl over it. However, the carpet would make it so it’s not scalding hot to the touch on the sunny days.

I also noticed the bolts and nuts supplied with the Breeze dead pedal are absolute shit. 2 bolts are now stuck and cross threaded themselves. I know it wasn’t my doing because they went on fine, but then got bound up halfway down.
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Having the body on for wheel alignment is not required. You just need to maintain ride height. Your alignment tech, will need to set the ride height, you specify, then do alignment, body off or on.
You will probably have to cut the dead pedal bolts. It sounds like they are stainless and gauled. Not uncommon for stainless, if used without anti seize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Right. I want the body on because I need to drive it to the alignment shop. The alignment is good enough for driving around, but it’s not perfect and I don’t have return-to-center. I had to cut one bolt off, but I got it on tight enough. Let’s see how it holds up.
 

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you can consider putting your shifter plate on the underside of the tunnel cover. You'd need to secure it w/ glue/JB weld instead of rivets, but it would at least prevent you from needing to remove the vinyl from the cover. when you drill holes for the shifter bezel, you can put bolts/nuts that will hold the blockoff plate up against the rest of the tunnel cover as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
Funny you mention that. I just thought of that last night. It’s not load bearing, so it would work, as long as I don’t lean on it. Good call on the bezel suggestion. I could maybe make another bracket or something to help hold the plate in. I just need to make it strong enough so that it never falls down and hits the driveshaft.
 

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Funny you mention that. I just thought of that last night. It’s not load bearing, so it would work, as long as I don’t lean on it. Good call on the bezel suggestion. I could maybe make another bracket or something to help hold the plate in. I just need to make it strong enough so that it never falls down and hits the driveshaft.
if you drill your holes to hold the shift boot bezel through both the tunnel cover and the blockoff plate, a bolt/nut combo should hold the plate in place. If I recall correctly, the bezel is wider than the cut out in the trans tunnel cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Ooohhhh I see what you mean. I didn’t know the bezel was wider than the hole. I thought it was smaller, hence the need for the hole cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #415 ·
Finally got an official alignment done. Turns out I was pretty close with my swag alignment. However, I was expecting the car to have a little more stability, especially at higher speeds. I got it aligned to the specs in the manual for both front and rear. The steering does not return-to-center either, which I’m surprised about. Any suggestions? It’s mostly street driven
 

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Tire pressure has a lot to do with feeling stable. Try 20 to 22 lbs.
My caster is 6.9 degrees and my steering does not return to center. I have gotten used to it and consider it a reminder to drive the car and not expect to drive itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·
Hmm alright, I’ll give that a try. Haha yeah, fair point. Although, the return to center does make it more controllable when you decide to mash the throttle. My steering is super light when driving, so it’s easy to get twitchy when driving one handed between shifts. Maybe there’s a way to add a bit of “weight” to the steering?
 

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...Maybe there’s a way to add a bit of “weight” to the steering?
There is...more positive caster, which will also increase straight line stability and promote return to center.

Manual steering or power? With power Power I always recommend 7 to 8 degrees positive caster. With manual if you go much beyond 3.5 to 4 degrees it can become quite difficult to steer at low speeds.

Toe also plays in to straight ahead stability and centering. You need to make certain that it was aligned for toe IN, not toe OUT. When toed out the car will be twitchy and not self center. I recommend 3/32" total toe in.

And yes, 22ish for a starting point on tire pressure.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #419 · (Edited)
Jeff, so I have it set to 7* caster and -.5* toe in. So the only thing left for me to try is lowering the psi. Not sure what it’s at now. Same psi for the rear?

Edit: I have power steering. Sorry, I forgot to answer that
 
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