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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Well the way it’s worded in the manual made it sound like only to cover the top section, not the whole way from the cockpit to the rear most floor by the lip. I can just splice in more. Having the pieces cut, but close shouldn’t cause a fitment issue, right? Should I run bulb seal from left to right along that trunk floor lip, as well?
 

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you can do the body fitting w/o the dash in place, however you might need to remove the body again if you plan on having screws that attach the dash to the hoop as the lip of the body will likely get in the way. I attached my dash using L brackets that I bolted to the frame hoop and 3M dual lock "velcro-like" fasteners to give the dash a cleaner appearance w/o screws. The bottom of the dash is also attached to the 2" frame using several pieces of aluminum brackets, or you can get replicapart's underdash panel.
the bulb seal should extend as rich said all the way to the bottom of the trunk sides as well as a strip along the rear lower panel. you'll probably be fine with ending the bulb seal short at the very bottom/rear of your trunk sides and I doubt water will be an issue with the rear splash panels installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
I saw in your build that you decided to do the velcro. I definitely plan on doin the same thing. You bolted the bottom to the brackets, correct? I order the lower braces from Breeze. So those, coupled with the ones supplied by FFR should be plenty to keep this secure. I assume that the only issue later down the road when I install the finished dash will be the need to trim that lip a little to make way for the dash, right?

I'll go back and redo those bulb seals. I've also reached out to FFR because they owe me the thin rubber weatherstrip, that was on POL.
 

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you typically need to trim the dash cowl lip a bit to get the body to sit far enough forward. again, the body should be just in front of the door striker plates. without trimming the cowl lip, you might not be able to move it far enough forward. I also recommend getting the bulb seal on the rear lower trunk panel as this will also affect your final positioning. even with the velcro, it might be difficult to remove the dash with the body on as you'll need some space to pull the dash rearward to disengage the velcro hooks.
and yes, I attached the bottom lip of the dash to the brackets that are then connected to the 2x2" frame. I used nutserts and screws for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Ok I’ll look at the door strikers again. I’m not above removing the body again when I get the dash ready. It’s easy enough to take on and off. My only concern is damaging the dash doing it too many times.

I was actually going to use the tech screws for the under dash brackets into the frame and JBWelding those brackets to the back of the dash. Is that not a good idea?
 

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In addition to trimming to get the body forward enough you will find that FFR does their trim real fast. The gap may vary from 0 to 3/8 inch across the width. So your trim can make it a lot nicer constant width gap. It isn't real obvious from normal vantage points but it will look a better when you do see it.
 
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I did not have any luck using JB Weld to secure brackets to the back of the dash. The brackets fell off with very little effort. I ended up countersinking some machine screws through the dash & then screwing the bracket to the underside of the dash hoop (an idea I shamelessly stole from edwardb). Make sure the head of the screw is slightly lower than the face of the dash & then use JB Weld to fill the divot. Sand flush & the head of the screw won't "print" through your dash covering.


John

IMG_3468 by jhsitton, on Flickr
IMG_3469 by jhsitton, on Flickr
IMG_3470 by jhsitton, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 · (Edited)
Well that's not good news. Can I ask how you prepped the dash and brackets? It's been my understanding that if you seriously scuff up the surfaces, then they should hold. However, if JBWeld won't work, then maybe I'll just velcro the top and bottom brackets. I imagine that would work fine, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 ·
Slowly making progress. Got the cubby hole power ports installed and powered via the radio circuit. One on each side
363124


Next project is to fabricate a removable, lockable panel for the cubby hole.
 

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I tried using JB weld for the dash as well and it did not work. I scored the back of the dash and drilled four small holes in the bracket to allow the JB weld to squish through. It held decent but 2 of 3 did come off after I accidentally bumped the dash.

also looks like you might want to roll down the kill mat a little more. I think those boxes are supposed to be fairly flat. I don’t know if it makes a difference or not as far as sticking or noise suppression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Yeah, I think I’m going to try doing what Phileas did.

Roll down the Kilmat more where? I’m not sure which boxes you’re talking about.
 

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those raised rectangles in the kilmat should be relatively flat when rolled down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
Oh, oh! Does making those flat affect adhesion to the panels underneath? Is there a recommended roller I should be using? I’ve just been pushing down on it by hand.

Wait, never mind. I just looked up the instructions. The purpose is to help reduce corrosion on the material underneath. I will buy a proper roller. Thanks for highlighting this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
Shhhh!!! Curse of being an engineer, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
As a point of comparison, how’s this for rolling? Do I need to smoosh it more? Obviously, I have not done the upper section yet.
363200
 

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Looks good. Roll it until the grooves are flat
 
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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
Insulation is all rolled and looking good. Yesterday, I was working on developing a locking lane for the cubby hole. I’ve looked around to see if anyone has done this before and it doesn’t appear anyone has. I wanted to maximize my lockable storage space for the longer trips.

I have a bunch of extra sheet steel so I traced out the inside cubby hole and added an extra 1/2” for a nice overlap. I then used thin aluminum stock to fabricate brackets that would keep the panel in place. My friend had the brilliant idea of just using the weatherstripping as the mount and lock points for the panel, thus eliminating the need to make female brackets. Add in a key lock and here are the results. A little more fine tuning or the alignment is necessary, ok I’m going to do that after I insulate and carpet this panel.
363274

363275

363276
 

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Discussion Starter · #319 ·
Question for you guys. I found the proper weather stripping to use, it was hiding in the basement. When I install the weather stripping in the engine bay, the stripping needs to go over the DS footboy panels. Since we always want to wait until the last minute to install those panels, should I just weatherstrip up to those panels and then weatherstrip over those panels when I put them in? Or will not having that weatherstripping really affect the fitment of the body?
 

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I don't think that spongy weatherstripping should affect body fitting the same way the bulbseal does. install the weatherstripping when you are ready to put the body on for the last time after paint.
 
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