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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
Great suggestions, Steve. Thank you! I like the idea of the heated blanket. I suspect, however, that my missus won’t be as tempted to ride with me so often, but who knows.
 

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I've made the 50 mile trip to some early and late season autocrosses with temperatures in the 30s a bunch of times (which is kind of silly because there's no way my tires will work when it's that cold but that's a whole other story...) No heater or heated seats; I wear fleece lined jeans, a thermal with hooded sweatshirt and Carhart Jacket over that. Add a good pair of Thinsulate gloves and it's not bad at all. The hooded sweatshirt or jacket is a must because wind buffets back at you from behind and gets you in the neck...that's the same reason why I have also been known to pull on my full face helmet on occasion ;) Dressed properly the only thing slightly chilled is the left shoulder because everything else is out of the wind.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #283 ·
Haha there’s an image. Jeff bundled up like a marshmallow driving a convertible. That’s exactly the attitude I am having about it. Cheap and easy and only a minor inconvenience. Realistically, I’ll not be traveling in temperatures below 40, unless it’s supposed to be gorgeous later on.
 

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For you guys that have used the Kilmat, what thickness do you buy 50 or 80 mil? Obviously thicker is better for insulation but does the 80 mil. get too thick?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
I’m using 80mil per the recommendation of others, including Chewy. He may have input on how the rest of the install went.
 

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I used the thicker stuff. no issues that i've seen thus far. I did cut a hole in my carpet and left insulation off around my breeze seat mounts to give a better contact between the mounts and the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
Not sure what you have there but this is what you need:


Everbilt 7/16 in.-14 tpi Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts-822291 - The Home Depot

Any hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. will have them for about a buck each.

Jeff
So I managed to get these couplers, but damn, for the life of me, I cannot find a local store that has the matching hardware. Why is 7/16-14 such a hard to find size?! I’ve checked Lowe’s, Home Depot and Ace. Guess I need to order from McMaster. Damn.
 

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I had the same problem sourcing 7/16" hardware, so I just went substituted 1/2" (I used the Finishline tubing, so check if the F5 tubing is large enough). I didn't even have to open up the holes in the body.


John
 

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I also used 1/2" hardware as it was easier to find. I was able to use the stock SS sleeves for the rear.
 
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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
I already got the coupling, I think I’m just going to order the hardware from McMaster to make my life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 · (Edited)
Last night, I did the initial fitment of the body without bulb seal and I have to say, it fit like a glove. I only did a rough alignment of the wheels previously and it’s pretty spot on. I have a few questions, though:

*People have previously said you’ll most likely need to trim 1/8” off the front and rear of the cockpit, but the rear looks to fit perfectly. It doesn’t look like the carpet would be much interference, right?

*I do not have the dash setup, obviously, so I know that measurement isn’t at all relevant, yet. I’m assuming I should get the dash complete prior to doing any trimming of the lip there, correct?

*I previously heard the rear trunk lip needs to be trimmed, but that’s looking pretty solid. I’m guessing that might need to be trimmed if the doors are not fitting properly and I need forward movement?

*With regards to the rear cockpit wall and cubby hole mod, I assume I should have bulb seal on both of those surfaces, correct? How does the alignment of my cubby mod look?

Edit: I’ve also finished up all of the insulation, except for the firewall. Is that necessary? It’s amazing how much more robust the car sounds now. The only bit left is the DS outer footbox wall.
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no bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall. you'll want the body sitting so the rear door opening is just in front of the door striker plates on the frame. to get it to move forward enough, sometimes you'll need to trim some rear trunk aluminum and the dash cowl lip on the body. I didn't have to trim any off the rear cockpit body and the carpet fits just fine. Not sure about the bulb seal on the cubby divider.
 
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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
This week I got the bulb seal and weather stripping on, although, I’m pretty sure FFR didn’t supply enough weathering stripping. I don’t have enough for the trunk hoop. Looks like I’ll be buying some from HD. I assume I’ll need weatherstripping for on top of the DS footbox, right? The manual doesn’t specify

I just realized last night that I did not buy the matching switches I wanted for my dash and they are coming from the UK. I got a couple Lucas switches. I think I’m at a good place to start doing bodywork. My big question is: do I need the dash finished and installed to start the body work? Keep in mind, I’m planning on doing the veneer dash.
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That thicker weather strip is for the DS footbox. There should have been some thinner stuff for the 3/4"rails. That's probably why you ran out
 

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That thicker weather strip of for the DS footbox. There should have been some thinner stuff for the 3/4"rails. That's probably why you ran out
Yep your right. That is to seal the sides of the foot boxo_O, and no bulb seal on the trunk back wall or the cubby wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #299 ·
Son of a b****! Alright, I’ll see if FFR can send me some or if I can find some at HD. Why shouldn’t there be any bulb seal on the cubby wall? Breeze supplied a strip that was exactly the correct length with the cubby kit I ordered.

Rich, do you mean from the drop trunk mod and back there shouldn’t be any bulb seal? Or should the bulb seal end at the trunk hoop?

What about my question about the dash? Is it necessary to have it installed and complete to get proper fitment for the rest of the body? My switches won’t be in for a couple of weeks and would like to hold off on doing the dash until those are in.
 

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There is no need for bulb seal on the back cockpit wall, nor on the cubby wall, but if Breeze sent some for the there, I guess use it as long as it doesn't interfere with the body fit. The trunk sides from the cock pit to the lower back floor should be one piece. Don't get why you cut both sides too short? On every kit I've built, I always had enough for everything
 
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