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Up here in the North Western suburbs of Chicago most places had nut couplers but no one had 7/16". All had 3/8" and then 1/2". I ordered mine from McMaster but went with the 1 1/2" long ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
I'll take another look, but I doubt I'll find something. I'd prefer to not spend McMaster money. Sh** ain't cheap.
 

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If I recall they were about the same price Jeff showed at Home Depot.

Yep - just checked 7/16" - 14, 1 3/4" long are $1.05 at McMaster Carr
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 · (Edited)
Apparently, I just suck at hunting for hardware. So I'll keep hunting. Having said that, I know this has been discussed and I've read the threads, but other thank Holde.co.uk, any ideas where to find close to matching style switches to the ones with the kit? I've already posted about this in Chewy's thread, but was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas.

Edit: I've also noticed people talking about not needing the inertia switch with carb'd engines. is the inertia switch only for cutting the fuel pump? I understood it as total car power, akin to a killswitch, no?
 

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the threaded rod between the frame and body is typically exposed. the SS sleeve goes over the threaded rod on the outside of the body.
 

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Apparently, I just suck at hunting for hardware. So I'll keep hunting. Having said that, I know this has been discussed and I've read the threads, but other thank Holde.co.uk, any ideas where to find close to matching style switches to the ones with the kit? I've already posted about this in Chewy's thread, but was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas.

Edit: I've also noticed people talking about not needing the inertia switch with carb'd engines. is the inertia switch only for cutting the fuel pump? I understood it as total car power, akin to a killswitch, no?
Inertia switch is for fuel pump only. Wire it in series wit the fuel pump relay ground. I also have hidden cut off switches so I can disable the fuel pump and ignition.

I have a carb engine and even at 7 psi that electric pump will push out a bunch of fuel in an accident. Mines rated at 125 gallons per hour. I want it off so no hesitation on my part to install it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
I’ve got a mechanical pump, so I think it’ll just remove the switch. No point in having it then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
It’s been a hot minute since I’ve posted, but I’ve been recovering from the vaccine and it’s been a busy week, sadly. I’ve also decided to dial back the intensity of my pace. I’ve come to realize that I likely won’t have this totally complete and painted by my wedding in July, sadly.

So as you’ve seen on my other thread, Mike Forte is fixing my transmission/driveshaft mating issue. Hopefully, sometime next week it’ll be ready for pickup. Fortunately, it’s not preventing me from moving forward.

Now I’m working on putting in some of the insulation in the cockpit. I’m using Kilmat, as Chewy and others have suggested. I was going to make a template for these, but then realized these sheets are very easy to cut and very easy to manipulate. So for these few pieces, I’ve been placing them, marking them, cutting them, then installing them. I think my OCD is going to love doing this, until I get to the footboxes.
362704
 
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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
It’s not the prettiest, but I’m proud of it. I’ve managed to use only 10 sheets and only a small portion of the scraps to fill in the blanks.

This weekend, I will be doing the rest of the cockpit. Then, when I can get a friend, or fiancée, I’ll do the initial body test fit.
362705
 
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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
With regards to using aluminum tape for seams, is there a particular method I should use or instance where I should use it? Just in the corners or between each different piece or is it not really necessary at all, except maybe in the footwells?
 

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I just overlapped the seams with the stick-on insulation.

One other thing a lot of us do is spray paint insulation under the seams of the carpet. That way, if you've got a small gap, you don't see bright shiny foil under the black carpet.


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
I haven’t been overlapping. I wasn’t sure if the overlap would be noticeable through the carpet. I figured, for the bigger gaps where my measurements aren’t perfect, I could use the tape.

I saw Chewy did the paint thing and thought that’s a good idea, so I’ll be doing that after I finish. I haven’t laid out the carpet yet, but I’m assuming the seams are all in obvious places, i.e. the corners and bends between panels?

here is an update of what I did last night. I’m kind of enjoying this process. It’s mindless, so I can play Top Gear in the background and just chug along.
362734

362735
 

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I taped all my seams w/ aluminum HVAC tape. Overkill? Probably...when taping corners, I found it easiest to fold/crease the tape in half length-wise with the backing still on, then removing the backing from one end and lay the creased tape into the angled junction between the panels and then pull the backing away as you lay the tape down.
As others have mentioned, we spend so much time sealing off the cockpit only to have to drill drainage holes if/when we get caught in a downpour.
 
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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
Fair point about the drainage. I’m thinking that the benefit of the tape is likely extremely minimal with regards to heat and sound insulation. All of my seems are far less than 1/8”.

So the question is, is this just a feel good thing to do or is there even anecdotal evidence to suggest the tape is really worth it?

The other question could be, does the tape help reduce the chance for the insulation to lift over time? You’d only be taping insulation to insulation, most of the time.

With regards to heat insulation, is it wise or stupid to double up insulation in the foot wells? Keep in mind I live in New England and not a place like Arizona.
 

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most of my heat is coming between the body and the outer footbox wall. many use memory foam and pool noodles to block off this heat. and don't forget about the heat coming from the large burning ball of gas in the sky.
 
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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
:ROFLMAO: Thanks for the reminder of the orange thing in the sky. I guess I’d just like to minimize the amount heat build up on my feet and legs.

Since I’ve decided to go gelcoat for the summer, I think I may try to install a cool/hot air vent. I know people, yourself included, run heaters, but I’m loosely playing with the idea of have two different routed vent pipes. I’m thinking I could run one pipe from the engine bay to get my hot air and one pipe from below the engine pointed forward to get cold air. Connect the two via a Y pipe and a mechanical manually operated valve to either close completely, open the top vent (hot) or the bottom vent (cold). Not sure if this has been done before, but I’ll be researching it. Any pointers?

More to your point, there definitely are gaps in a couple of spots in the DS footbox that I should silicone and tape.
 

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You will have a hard time picking up hot air from the engine bay. It gets hot in there for sure but how to grab some of it? There isn't a good flow point. I had fresh air from the openings beside the rad opening and no fan. That kind of worked as long as I was >35mph or so. Also, you will quickly run out of room for 3inch ducting. I see that you are in Ct so it gets cold. If I were you I'd install a heater and think about a top down the road. That would let you extend your driving by a significant amount as long as there is no snow or salt on the road. When one of those days in Feb or Mar comes along, roads are clear, and suddenly it's bright sun and 35deg, it is a real boost to your attitude to take a 30 minute drive in the FFR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 · (Edited)
Damn, I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do a heater, but I guess I could consider doing it. How well would a heater really work anyway in an open top car? I am doing heated seats. I thought that might be enough to keep me warm.

I was thinking to compensate for lack of airflow, I could put a turbine inside the duct work, but maybe that’ll get too complicated and expensive.

Edit: After a cursory search, I saw that you need to do a firewall forward mod if you want heater and glovebox and I don’t feel like getting into that, considering I’ve already got the firewall mounted and adjusted. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Back in the day before my accident when I rode motorcycles, I was crazy enough to ride in 40* weather. I’ll just bundle up and bear the colder days. Maybe bring a blanket haha.
 

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Edit: After a cursory search, I saw that you need to do a firewall forward mod if you want heater and glovebox and I don’t feel like getting into that, considering I’ve already got the firewall mounted and adjusted. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Back in the day before my accident when I rode motorcycles, I was crazy enough to ride in 40* weather. I’ll just bundle up and bear the colder days. Maybe bring a blanket haha.
I too would bundle up and ride the motorcycle when it was cold even below freezing as long as the streets were clear. It was the better half that said "you are installing a heater and seat heaters, right?" Done deal. It is amazing how much heat the heater will pump out! I hear you, one the issue with the glove box. You might be able to fab a box and have the heater mount to the front of the firewall giving you more room. I've seen several builders do that so they don't need the firewall forward option. You can also reduce the depth of your glove box by half getting you 1 or 1 1/2" of extra room.

Another idea for the better half is to get a 12v heated blanket. Drape it over her or both of you and "snug as a bug". That and the heated seats and I think you will be fine.

Steve
 
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