Up here in the North Western suburbs of Chicago most places had nut couplers but no one had 7/16". All had 3/8" and then 1/2". I ordered mine from McMaster but went with the 1 1/2" long ones.
Inertia switch is for fuel pump only. Wire it in series wit the fuel pump relay ground. I also have hidden cut off switches so I can disable the fuel pump and ignition.Apparently, I just suck at hunting for hardware. So I'll keep hunting. Having said that, I know this has been discussed and I've read the threads, but other thank Holde.co.uk, any ideas where to find close to matching style switches to the ones with the kit? I've already posted about this in Chewy's thread, but was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas.
Edit: I've also noticed people talking about not needing the inertia switch with carb'd engines. is the inertia switch only for cutting the fuel pump? I understood it as total car power, akin to a killswitch, no?
I too would bundle up and ride the motorcycle when it was cold even below freezing as long as the streets were clear. It was the better half that said "you are installing a heater and seat heaters, right?" Done deal. It is amazing how much heat the heater will pump out! I hear you, one the issue with the glove box. You might be able to fab a box and have the heater mount to the front of the firewall giving you more room. I've seen several builders do that so they don't need the firewall forward option. You can also reduce the depth of your glove box by half getting you 1 or 1 1/2" of extra room.Edit: After a cursory search, I saw that you need to do a firewall forward mod if you want heater and glovebox and I don’t feel like getting into that, considering I’ve already got the firewall mounted and adjusted. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Back in the day before my accident when I rode motorcycles, I was crazy enough to ride in 40* weather. I’ll just bundle up and bear the colder days. Maybe bring a blanket haha.