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Good morning gents. So today is the day I will be starting up my engine for the first time. I’ve got all fluids filled, with the exception of power steering, which will be filled before first crank. Couple of questions.

1. I’ve routed the lines so any high spots in the lines are below the top of the reservoir. Are there any concerns with the way I’ve routed the lines? I’ve made sure to zip tie the lines away from the steering shaft and pulley. When I finalize this, I’m either going to double up the zip ties or use the insulated clips.
2. Anything I need to consider bleeding the system? From what I’ve read, either filling the reservoir and turning lock to lock several times before crank will suffice and then just make sure to keep topping off the system during first crank or just filling the system and skipping the lock to lock procedure. Thoughts?
View attachment 362617
I can't wait to here it come to life!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Me too!! It’s about to happen in a matter of moments!
 

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Discussion Starter #243
The video is still uploading to YouTube, but here's the link of the first start!

Damn, I'm so excited! it took a few tries to get it to run consistently and for fuel to run through the line, but it eventually started working pretty smoothly. It seems when cold, I just need to give it a couple of pumps before it will catch.

Not sure if you can see this in the video, but the steering wheel just randomly became possessed! In another vide, it just develops Parkinsons and starts having a mind of it's own turning back and forth violently. It also ended up leaking out a decent amount of fluid. I thought this was all because the system may have been over pressurized from doing the lock to lock pressurization dance, but I don't think that's it. Any thoughts on what could cause this? maybe the lines are reversed?
 
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Discussion Starter #246
First V8 I’ve ever had, so this is a pretty unique and epic experience for me. I’ve been around others before, but they have been in other people’s cars and muffled. As you can tell, I was extremely happy and excited haha.
Jeff, I figured that would be the issue. I’ll work on that this week, along with getting the body mounted without bulb seal first for a rough fit.
 

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looking and sounding good!
 
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Discussion Starter #249
This is very handy, thank you. I’ll double check this tonight after work.
 

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If you have to disconnect the lines I suggest routing them over the front x frame. You can then secure them to the F panel and get away from the zip ties.

362625
 

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Discussion Starter #251
I tried doing that before, but then decided not to because I didn’t want to have any high spots in the line above the reservoir. I’ve read that, like brake systems, it’s fairly important to keep the reservoir as the high point. Has that not been problematic for you? I was also considering permanently attaching the lines with the clips once I had the system finalized.
 

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I tried doing that before, but then decided not to because I didn’t want to have any high spots in the line above the reservoir. I’ve read that, like brake systems, it’s fairly important to keep the reservoir as the high point...
You've read some misinformation. Unlike brake systems which are deadheaded this is a pressurized return system.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #253 (Edited)
Good to know. Any concerns with the way I’ve routed it, though, beyond ILPB’s comment?
 

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Discussion Starter #254
So I’ve addressed the reversed PS lines, put in fresh fluid, but haven’t tested it yet. It was a little late to start this beast without waking the neighbors.

I was also having an electric choke issue and addressed that. I will be testing these today after work.

I spent the better part of my night siliconing and riveting in most of the trunk panels last night. It feels good to start getting these pieces permanently installed. It’s especially nice to not see those clecos everywhere.

Tonight, I will be finishing up the trunk panels and installing all of the cockpit panels, save for the tunnel top.

Once those panels are in, I’ll be installing the body temporarily without bulb seal to check the rough alignment of things. After adjusting the firewall and cockpit rear panels, it seems like I should remove the body, install the bulb seal and reinstall the body. At which point, I can start aligning all of the body panels. Is this a good approach? Anything else I should consider?
362632
 

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What are those tubes coming out of the back at the rear body mounting location? Is that the Kleiner mod? Those appear to be way long as you may have to trim off that back panel lip to get the body to go forward far enough to be the recommended 1/4" in front of the door striker mounts. I think Mr Kleiner recommended 1 1/2" long threaded coupling nuts.
 
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Discussion Starter #256
Yes, those are the mods. I ordered 4” long sleeves as an over size based on the drawings supplied by factory five. I fully intend on cutting those way down, but I’ll determine that when I put the body on. I didn’t want to cut it too short accidentally and have to order new ones.
 

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You use the threaded rod with a nut and washer inside the body and then a nut and rubber coated washer on the outside to adjust back and forth. The threaded rod bottoms out in the threaded coupling and the nuts adjust the body forward or back. Cut them to the recommended length Mr Kleiner had in his mod write-up. They work perfect.
 
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yup, my nut couplers are only 1.5 or 2" long max.
 
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Discussion Starter #260
I looked everywhere for a threaded coupling like that at every hardware store I could find and had to resort to ordering from McMaster. I better be able to return this hardware then if HD actually has this.

The other issue is that I was not able to find longer 7/16-14" bolts to mate to this. My measurements were based off of this diagram in the manual for the rear QJs.
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