Factory Five Racing Forum banner

221 - 240 of 268 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #222 (Edited)
I’ve tried doing that, but the tube just won’t dent. Any suggestions on methods of doing that?
Edit: Georgie gave me some resolution and is sending me a flange with a 3” bolt pattern.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #223
So now that I’ve received some resolution on the headers issue, I’m going to work on some other things while I wait. I installed the clutch cable, but noticed the clutch is significantly heavy than I anticipated. It’s cable operated. I knew going in it wouldn’t feel like a modern car, but not only is the engagement stupid heavy, it doesn’t feel very linear.

I think the linear feel can be fixed by adjusting the engagement point of the pedal by tightening it up. But, aside from power assist, are there any suggestions for improving this so I’m not always leg pressing my clutch?
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
24,189 Posts
Are you using an official Ford cable? If nut Forte has then at a good price.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
Craig, I just found a thread on this and that was the first recommendation. Thanks! I’ll give him a call in a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
Forte also has a kit that improves the clutch effort by changing the geometry of the cable a bit, I believe. I swapped out the cable w/ one from Forte after reading horror stories about the FF provided ones.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #227
I took your advice, Eugene, and got the various items from Forte. Should be here in a couple of days!

So I made some more progress tonight. Got the donor rack from Napa installed with the tie rod extensions, no rack extenders at the moment, but will address that later. I have a lot of research to do on bump steer and steering alignment before I get into bolting that down. I have the Breeze rack offset bushings, but after a little reading, I thought maybe I shouldn't just install them right away and wait to see how the car drives to see if it's even necessary to have them installed. Thoughts?

Per Georgie's advice, I temporarily bolted down the headers with the 4 each accessible bolts. This should help me to keep going and get the body on and fitted while I wait for him to have some availability to fix my headers. I put the copper gasket in there, in case those headers are on for awhile (his guy just came down with COVID, so who knows how long he will be out of work).

I also got the cockpit and engine electrics working with my temporary dashboard, you like?? I have to say, I'm super excited that all of that seems to be working well, so far! I turn the key to ACC-Off-On and all gauges light up and dance around. Looking forward to getting this thing into go cart stage. I find myself more and more frequently dreaming about driving this bad boy around in the summer.
362542

362544

362543

362545
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
the offset breeze bushings allow you to better center the rack to the frame. I found that my manual rack was sitting about 1/2" towards one side. without it, there would have been a slight discrepancy in tire location to the body and possible wheel rub. "Karlos" on the other forum has a really nice write up describing how to best center the steering rack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thwrightstuff

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #230
Haha I had to! It was the only way to even remotely get the bolts to fit! I tried everything to get them to fit without even touching them. That’s why I was so frustrated in that other thread I posted about the design. It looks even worse in this picture.
362546
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Haha I had to! It was the only way to even remotely get the bolts to fit! I tried everything to get them to fit without even touching them. That’s why I was so frustrated in that other thread I posted about the design. It looks even worse in this picture. View attachment 362546
Boy...I would wrap those babies with header insulation to hide the "ugliness". No offense intended.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #232
Oh no, it is indeed ugly. I talked it over with Georgie and he can fix them up with a 3” bolt pattern and they’ll look good as new!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #233 (Edited)
Got some Forte parts today, the better clutch cables, clutch effort reducer and the adjuster. However, I’m struggling a bit to find a place to attach the clutch cable bracket and to fit the adjuster. Any suggestions?

Edit: never mind. I answered my own questions.
362561

362562
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #234
Has anyone tried installing their seats with the Breeze mounts prior to installing insulation and carpet? I'm guessing it's pointless to try doing that and should really wait for both to be installed, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
Attach the base directly to the floor panels. You don't want carpet and sound barrier between the seat base and frame. You'll be able to feel the edges of the base through the carpet and cut along it with a sharp blade.
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
12,006 Posts
I strongly recommend that you wait until the body is on for a test fit before installing the seats. Too far outboard and they’ll interfere with the body &/or door latches.

Jeff
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #237
I strongly recommend that you wait until the body is on for a test fit before installing the seats. Too far outboard and they’ll interfere with the body &/or door latches.
That’s right, I remember you mentioning that before. I’ll wait then.
Attach the base directly to the floor panels. You don't want carpet and sound barrier between the seat base and frame. You'll be able to feel the edges of the base through the carpet and cut along it with a sharp blade.
That’s what I figured, but in the instructions, Mark says to have the carpet installed, which didn’t make any sense to me. The seat base wouldn’t be mounted flush and securely if carpet was under it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,132 Posts
I guess you could go over the carpet if attaching the base with bolts/ nuts, but I used rivets and felt this was a more secure without carpet in between.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thwrightstuff

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #239
Good morning gents. So today is the day I will be starting up my engine for the first time. I’ve got all fluids filled, with the exception of power steering, which will be filled before first crank. Couple of questions.

1. I’ve routed the lines so any high spots in the lines are below the top of the reservoir. Are there any concerns with the way I’ve routed the lines? I’ve made sure to zip tie the lines away from the steering shaft and pulley. When I finalize this, I’m either going to double up the zip ties or use the insulated clips.
2. Anything I need to consider bleeding the system? From what I’ve read, either filling the reservoir and turning lock to lock several times before crank will suffice and then just make sure to keep topping off the system during first crank or just filling the system and skipping the lock to lock procedure. Thoughts?
362617
 
  • Like
Reactions: jhargrove

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
24,189 Posts
PS systems will more or less self-bleed. I don't worry about it at first start, there are too many other things to keep track of re; the engine. Fill the reservoir maybe 3/4. I keep a can of fluid handy so, IF it starts to wail, I can top it up. If no wailing is heard it's good enough for now.
 
221 - 240 of 268 Posts
Top