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Hmm I didn't really see anything that looked like adjustability on these. These are not the double adjustable shocks, but I'll take another look.
As egchewy said - The black dust cap pops off and there is a way to set the softness of the rebound. I think there are four settings. I'll see if I can track down the exact procedure from Koni.

Are you doing power steering? If so, you can also cut the rear upper control arm adjuster tubes while you have this in the wide open. Take them down about 1/4 to 3/8 on each end. It will allow you to fully adjust the Caster to the +7 to 8 degrees.

Build school info - shock body up on the front and shock body down on the rear - if using a moser solid axle rear end.

Steve
 

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I think it's probably best to do it now while it's fresh. I have already torqued everything down, but who cares, it doesn't take long.

egchewy. thanks for sending this over. While I modify the sleeves, I'll take the shocks out and double check those, too.
When you cut the sleeve check to make sure the threaded pieces, one bolted on and the other welded on do not bottom out against each other inside the sleeve. I had to also trim about 3/8" off of each of the threaded inserts too.

Steve
 

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361401

Here are what the Wilwoods look like through the Halibrands
 

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My 427 with TKO was 450 lbs and that is with the shipping crate. Your 302 with a T5 is probably around 400. Take note, for every foot you have the engine hoist arm extended it derates the lifting ability. The 2 ton is the way to go.
 

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Don't forget the engine ground strap. Much easier to put on when the engine is up in the air on the lift. I forgot and had to unbolt a motor mount while the engine was in the car to get it installed.
 
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Ford Racing makes other types of breather, fill caps. My valve cover is different though. No fill tube, just a hole the filter goes into.
362506
 

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If you have to disconnect the lines I suggest routing them over the front x frame. You can then secure them to the F panel and get away from the zip ties.

362625
 

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What are those tubes coming out of the back at the rear body mounting location? Is that the Kleiner mod? Those appear to be way long as you may have to trim off that back panel lip to get the body to go forward far enough to be the recommended 1/4" in front of the door striker mounts. I think Mr Kleiner recommended 1 1/2" long threaded coupling nuts.
 
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You use the threaded rod with a nut and washer inside the body and then a nut and rubber coated washer on the outside to adjust back and forth. The threaded rod bottoms out in the threaded coupling and the nuts adjust the body forward or back. Cut them to the recommended length Mr Kleiner had in his mod write-up. They work perfect.
 
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Up here in the North Western suburbs of Chicago most places had nut couplers but no one had 7/16". All had 3/8" and then 1/2". I ordered mine from McMaster but went with the 1 1/2" long ones.
 

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If I recall they were about the same price Jeff showed at Home Depot.

Yep - just checked 7/16" - 14, 1 3/4" long are $1.05 at McMaster Carr
 

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Apparently, I just suck at hunting for hardware. So I'll keep hunting. Having said that, I know this has been discussed and I've read the threads, but other thank Holde.co.uk, any ideas where to find close to matching style switches to the ones with the kit? I've already posted about this in Chewy's thread, but was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas.

Edit: I've also noticed people talking about not needing the inertia switch with carb'd engines. is the inertia switch only for cutting the fuel pump? I understood it as total car power, akin to a killswitch, no?
Inertia switch is for fuel pump only. Wire it in series wit the fuel pump relay ground. I also have hidden cut off switches so I can disable the fuel pump and ignition.

I have a carb engine and even at 7 psi that electric pump will push out a bunch of fuel in an accident. Mines rated at 125 gallons per hour. I want it off so no hesitation on my part to install it.
 

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Edit: After a cursory search, I saw that you need to do a firewall forward mod if you want heater and glovebox and I don’t feel like getting into that, considering I’ve already got the firewall mounted and adjusted. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Back in the day before my accident when I rode motorcycles, I was crazy enough to ride in 40* weather. I’ll just bundle up and bear the colder days. Maybe bring a blanket haha.
I too would bundle up and ride the motorcycle when it was cold even below freezing as long as the streets were clear. It was the better half that said "you are installing a heater and seat heaters, right?" Done deal. It is amazing how much heat the heater will pump out! I hear you, one the issue with the glove box. You might be able to fab a box and have the heater mount to the front of the firewall giving you more room. I've seen several builders do that so they don't need the firewall forward option. You can also reduce the depth of your glove box by half getting you 1 or 1 1/2" of extra room.

Another idea for the better half is to get a 12v heated blanket. Drape it over her or both of you and "snug as a bug". That and the heated seats and I think you will be fine.

Steve
 
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