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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone email me a template for the standard FFR dash layout

email is: [email protected]

Thanks


Tifford

[ May 23, 2004, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Tifford ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I have the older MKI body.

Tifford

[ May 23, 2004, 11:56 PM: Message edited by: Tifford ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I also have the full set of Stewart/Warner guages.

Tifford
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the paper/diagrams that came with the kit when I ordered my kit. However there are no measurements as to exactly where the holes should go. I'm afraid is I eye ball it that it will look crummy.

So where do I get a template of the standard FFR dash layout?

Tifford
 

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Are you saying that you have a blank dash and the hole locations are not drawn? I thought that was SOP. How old is your kit?
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a blank dash.

I picked the kit up in 6/16/01.

I've been working nights(summers too), part time, on my masters degree. I have the masters degree out of the way so I've started the building process again.

Tifford
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This was a pic of my blank dash.

I had to take off the pic. I trying to sell my boat and needed the room on my picture page.

Tifford

[ May 24, 2004, 08:05 PM: Message edited by: Tifford ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll list it if I can't get a template. Thanks

Tifford
 

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An alternative is to do what I did. I taped together some cardboard and cut out a "blank" dashboard from the aluminum one. I then "installed" it in my frame (w/ body on, of course), and literally sat there with my Sharpie and a print out of the "competition" design and made the markings, taking notice of the frame and anything else that might interfere with the gauges. I also made sure I could "see" the gauges from a normal driving position. Lastly I tried to envision the switches and made them as "user" friendly as I could. I then cut out the holes on the cardboard itself to make the transfer.

When I was happy, I took the cardboard over to the blank and transferred the holes I drew. Cut the aluminum. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dior55,

That is a good idea. I will do that this sometime this week. I guess it shouldn't be too bad. Your idea might be better than using a template b/c you have made sure that you can read your guages. Thanks

Tifford
 

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You can order a full size template from Levyracing.com FYI. Or you can tell them what you want and send your blank in and they'll cut it. etc.
 

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Originally posted by Tifford:
Dior55,

That is a good idea. I will do that this sometime this week. I guess it shouldn't be too bad. Your idea might be better than using a template b/c you have made sure that you can read your guages. Thanks

Tifford
In fact, now that I think about it more (it's been 4 years!) I believe I also made paper "circles" representing each gauge and switch -- of course I cut them out to the same diameter of my gauges, etc.,and wrote "speedo", "tach", "O-P", etc. and lightly scotch taped them to the cardboard. This way I could move everything around without making lots of marks. When I was all set, I then used the Sharpie to mark up the cardboard, cut out the holes and then transferred to the aluminum blank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wayne,

A couple of questions. Do you know if the one you have is the same dimensions as mine?

Are the guages on the prepunched ones easy to read/see as a driver?

Tifford
 
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