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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I'm picking one of these up, my pre-assembly thoughts have kicked off and there is one concept that is haunting me...

If I install this blind roll bar attachment and drive in Gel-Coat before I go to paint, I'll end up removing it during the bodywork/paint process...

Question: how do you realign bottom bolt during reassembly of the down leg?

I could just go directly to Don with this, but am looking for how all of you have attacked this...

My current thoughts (do they work?)

1. notches for internal blades (both ends)
2. multiple drills (don't like this at all)
3. wait until after paint to install (not my favorite)

Cheers,

Jim
 

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I'm planning to do the same thing, and have the Tangent parts. Are you thinking the internal locking blade assemblies have to be removed when the roll bar is disassembled? As I understand it, they don't... Once they are installed and locked into place, they can stay. You just spin the angled down tube to unscrew the threaded rod holding everything together. I would think it's very repeatable to reassemble back to the same place when screwing the threaded rod back in. Hopefully I'm not missing something. Sometimes we over think this stuff. I know I do...
 

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Hey, Guys. Good thinking and many have had this same question through the years. The short version is that it really turns out to be a non problem. Once installed and the downtube is tightened like you like it and the lower mounting bolts are drilled, a re-installation results in the same positioning as long as you don't remove the wedge-lock. But - even if you do, it's relatively easy to get it back like you like it. In that case one option is to install the lock in the hoop hard and the one in the downtube snug. Install the downtube and "clock" to within a few degrees of your needed position. Remove and torque to spec and then re-install. The long center threaded stud gives a measure to keep things tight.

As always, let me know if there are any question with any Tangent kit.

All the best, Don
 

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Sanding... Sanding...
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm planning to do the same thing, and have the Tangent parts. Are you thinking the internal locking blade assemblies have to be removed when the roll bar is disassembled? As I understand it, they don't... Once they are installed and locked into place, they can stay. You just spin the angled down tube to unscrew the threaded rod holding everything together. I would think it's very repeatable to reassemble back to the same place when screwing the threaded rod back in. Hopefully I'm not missing something. Sometimes we over think this stuff. I know I do...
If that's the case (lock blades don't move), then yeah.. problem solved. I'll have to look more closely... I thought it worked a lot like a molly bolt; as you tighten, the blades dig in... loosen, the blades loosen.

Hey, Guys. Good thinking and many have had this same question through the years. The short version is that it really turns out to be a non problem. Once installed and the downtube is tightened like you like it and the lower mounting bolts are drilled, a re-installation results in the same positioning as long as you don't remove the wedge-lock. But - even if you do, it's relatively easy to get it back like you like it. In that case one option is to install the lock in the hoop hard and the one in the downtube snug. Install the downtube and "clock" to within a few degrees of your needed position. Remove and torque to spec and then re-install. The long center threaded stud gives a measure to keep things tight.

As always, let me know if there are any question with any Tangent kit.

All the best, Don
Thanks Don... I didn't envision the 'lock' but now it makes sense. Ingenious!

So, now I can look styling even in Gel Coat! :cool:

I'm on the hook for your light kit, too... after paint in the coming months... That thing is sweet!

Cheers,

Jim
 

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I installed mine in 2007 and I welded both ends in and then sent them out for crome. I track day my car and felt better about welding them in.
 

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Thank, Guys, let me know if there are any other questions.


Vegas - you may have the first generation lock that consisted of a heavier wedge lock assembly. The latest ones are a bit different.

I installed mine in 2007 and I welded both ends in and then sent them out for crome. I track day my car and felt better about welding them in.
All the best, Don
 

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Tangent kit in Mk4

Installed the kit in the 1 1/2" chrome Mk4 roll bar. Went in exactly as advertised. Just follow the well written directions and have the beer AFTER you're done.
Used a torn coarse belt sander belt rolled up the long way and kept turning it inside the tube until I could feel some ridges. The rear down tube almost looks like one piece.
Thanks Don!
 
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