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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All
I have a T5 transmission I rebuilt and on reassembly the last step is to install the front retainer less shims and calculate the end play and shim accordingly …..
Here in lies the problem with no shims behind the race I have .030”-.045”preload ,it’s way to much as it is (transmission input shaft very hard to turn) The tran’s came to me with a new steel type retainer not OEM I think (how do you tell?) I noticed in Ford racing catalog that two types of retainers are sold I’m thinking I might just have the wrong one.
The recess for the bearing race is .630” +- a couple thousandths is that the difference between the two? I know the tran’s is a WC T5 because of the steel bearing race cup fot the cluster gear and needle roller bearings on the main output shaft.
BTW there were no shims installed at the front retainer on tear down.
So to any of you tranny experts out there I would appreciate a little guidance.


TIA
Ernie
 

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Ernie,
I have the one I am rebuilding in parts in the basement. So expert I am not.

Are you sure that you have a matching input and output shaft with the correct bearing. It is my understanding that the older version T5 has the plain rollers in a straight cup on the output shaft, while the newer models have a a taper and a special cup roller bearing.

I am guessing that if you have a shaft or bearing mismatch - IF - everything else is assembled correctly. The slope would be an interference item on any mismatch. I would give a call to Bob Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports (Google). He is a guru with respect to Mustang T5s.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stephen
I don't know about it being a early or late model version the tag # is
E6ZR-7003-FB REP ATI
13-52-169
229685G1991
Maybe someone will know how to decode it.....
Everything fit really well the only thing I'm not sure about is the front retainer???
Do you have the front retainer off yours if so could you measure the depth of the race fome the back face?
The reason I posted is because I have not heard back from Hanlon....3 emails so far.

Thanks
Ernie
 

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Ernie - like factory five, I understand that hanlon is a better phone call than an email ...

I measured from the surface where the shim sits to the rim that sticks into the transmission. On the aluminum (old) one I get ~ .63, on the new one steel it is a little over .9. I don't have a clean way to measure from the flange face to the shim surface which are the teo machined surfaces.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it! I think the tapered race that nests into the tail housing was not fully seated.... Took a BFH, handel end and tapped the input shaft Firmly and it scooted in,added a .023" shim behind the front carrier race and all is perfect.
Thanks for the info though.

Ernie
 

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Ernie just caught the post but looks like you already got it. I like to use a dead blow and as you did seat the input and output shafts several times to be sure everything is seated well. There is no room for the bearing retainer to bolt down unless you have every thing seated. Since you have the shim and retainer bolted on,use a dail indicator on the input shaft. pry the in and output shafts front to back and measure useing the indicator instead of mic'ing shims to set thrust play. Usually find it can be a liitle tigher checking this way. What did you leave for final clearence?
Not all trannys will have shims and may not need shims at rebuild time. Do the final check "after" a very thin bead of silicone is put between retianer and case. Steel cupped timken bearing on front of cluster shows you do have the WC tranny. It also has the bearings on main shaft you replaced where regular non WC could have had bushing instead,along with fiber rings found in WC's. Only WC had the front bearing instead of bushing you described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hind Sight
Yes thats why I used the handle end of the 2lb hammer I didn't want to screw up the nose on the input shaft. With the shim I used I figure I would have about .001"-.002" of pre load. I think I just had a little burr on the tailshaft housing for the race. But after I finished I put a dial indicator on the input shaft and noticed about a .010"-.012" run out is this excessive? I'm thinking of swapping out the transmission this weekend can you pull it without taking off the bellhousing?

Thanks
Ernie
 

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I run a slight bit tighter on thrust clearence. I use .004" when checked with a indicator. Any tighter it could go away one hot. .010" is ok, but I prefer to have almost all thrust gone once trans is warm. Too tight could cause shifting problems.don't ask. May be able to leave bell housing in. Might end up at least loosening it up to get more swing. At least on the m 3's it can be swaped without engine removal.
Do you have other shims? Still have some extras laying around if needed.
 
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