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· Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I 'think' I know what the ultimate answer may be, but I thought I would throw this out there to get some opinions.

Stock T5 from a '93, with new fresh ATF fluid. Stock shifter. Donor drove great.

I've got some miles on the FFR now, and I find shifting from 2nd to 3rd to take more attention than I would like. I am using the forward-leaning FFR shifter (love it). The issue is I can easily drop it from 2nd into 1st instead of 3rd unless I am consciously 'feeling' the lever into 3rd gear. It takes more thought than just shifting.

The shift from 4th to 5th just happens normally. It's only the 2nd to 3rd shift that I am not getting 100% of the time.

I tried searching through the forums for this, and I'm sure it has been talked about. But querying is either getting a bazillion hits or none. :)

What's your remedy?
 

· 1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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28,719 Posts
It's only the 2nd to 3rd shift that I am not getting 100% of the time.
Where's it going? Is it trying to get into 5th or just hitting a stop?

Greg
 

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Greg_M
The issue is I can easily drop it from 2nd into 1st instead of 3rd
Gale K:
Have you considered and after-market shifter? My MGW seems very positive on the shifts, but you may have to modify the handle to fit the FFR lever.
 

· Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
MP,

That's what my "I 'think' I know what the ultimate answer may be" reference was to--an aftermarket shifter. :) Several on the forum have lauded the Pro shifter as a good one, too.
 

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567 Posts
Aftermarket shifters were developed mostly to cure this very issue. They are spring loaded to center at the 3-4 slot. To shift from 2nd to 3rd, you just push it forward and it goes into third.

From the $50 ebay shifter to the $200 Pro 5.0 most all function the same way, just some differences in outward appearance.
 

· Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Not to rain on the shifter parade but, one of the weak links on a T5 is the 2nd to 3rd shift. Not sure on the whole tech truth but it has something to do with 1st and 2nd on one shaft (?) and 3rd and 4th on another. Was advised not to power shift 2nd to 3rd and my trans will last A LOT longer.

Can you shift it at ideal rpm from 2nd to 3rd smoothly. If not I wouldn't be so quick to buy a new shifter.
 

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567 Posts
Not to rain on the shifter parade but, one of the weak links on a T5 is the 2nd to 3rd shift. Not sure on the whole tech truth but it has something to do with 1st and 2nd on one shaft (?) and 3rd and 4th on another. Was advised not to power shift 2nd to 3rd and my trans will last A LOT longer.

Can you shift it at ideal rpm from 2nd to 3rd smoothly. If not I wouldn't be so quick to buy a new shifter.
It seemed the issue Gale has, is finding third.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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4,082 Posts
I use a Pro-5 shifter on my t-5s & it made a BIG differance on how they shift!! Spring loaded & almost shifts itself. I now have a Astro Super Alloy T-5 / Pro-5 shifter & love It! Mel(girlfriend) drove cobra 7,000 miles this past summer & no problems. She drives(shifts) roadster like It should be driven:evil:.
HTh
Butch
 

· Senior Charter Member
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1,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies everryone. Since posting my original question, I continued to search and found several additional posts about it. And yes, sounds as if an aftermarket shifter should fit the bill!

Tom, you hit the nail on the head. Just finding it is the issue. It shifts smooth enough, either into 1st or 3rd!
 

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316 Posts
Yes, as has been said, the aftermarket shifters have a stronger spring to "normalize" the shifter into the 3-4 track.

Most are good, but I've heard the most positive feedback on the MGW shifters, however their shifter handle-to-base mount is round and does not easily lend itself to a wide choice of handles.

In the case above, the stock shifter is probably badly worn causing the issue to be amplified. The best test I know for a worn shifter is to shake the handle vertically. If the handle lifts up and down, it is worn. I've seen SEVERAL of the Pro-5.0 units do this and analysis has shown that the aluminum base itself wore causing the handle to sink into the cavity. There are other brands that wear too...

Aftermarket shifters have adjustable stops that are supposed to protect the forks from breaking due to over-shifting. Be sure to adjust them so that the stops just barely DON'T touch the shifter handle and tighten them down. My preference is to remove them all together because I feel that they do nothing to help, but cause damage when they are not adjusted properly. The T-5 has a stop under the shifter block that works just fine.

Now, to protect the forks, it is primarily the 3-4 fork that breaks and I believe that they break after the synchro keys jam and the synchro slider locks up causing a jam. I recommend instead, the billet 3-4 keys because they don't pop up and jam like the stock synchro keys do. I've not heard of them jamming once the billet keys have been installed.
 

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2,382 Posts
I really like my Steeda Tri-Ax. It is designed to address this specific issue. People also have had issues that relate to the fitting of the shift boot.

Good luck.
 
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