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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going for the vintage look dash (Finish Line S/C version dash) and am using the I-Squared Million+ system with a very simply layout. I will only need the following switches:

* FF's 3-position acc/ignition switch

* a pull-type parking light / headlight / dash rheostate switch (FFR or Ron Francis or other?)

* hazards switch (SPST)

* radiator fan thermostat override (SPST)

* wiper switch (SPDT or DPDT?)

* Footbox vent blower switch (SPST)

I'm using Russ's turn signal switch with the horn on the turn signal stalk, and a foot-mounted dimmer switch.

Now my question: is it REALLY true Radio Shack has "Lucas-look-alike" switches that are cheaper than Lucas and equal or higher quality (please don't laugh)?

If not RS, is there an alterntive source for high-quality Lucas-look-alikes?

My default is simply to order Lucas switches from a forum vendor...
 

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For what it's worth, I have many of the parts you are describing, I also got my Lucas brand toggles from Finishline, they have a special toggle for wipers, just an FYI. They seem very high quality, much nicer than the switches supplied by FFR, though they should be for what they cost. I don't know how they will function over the long haul. The main reason I got them was that I wanted the special wiper toggle and wanted the other switches to match that one.

Chris.
 

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The Radio Shack switches don't include the smoke, though. That's included with the Lucas units, which is why they cost more.
 

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You will have to use a different rheostate to dim your dash lights because your guage want 12v but you will be only sending millivolts to your headlight switch. I'm going to mount a separate rheostate under my dash to cantrol my dash lights.

Pat
 

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Originally posted by turboguy:
The Radio Shack switches don't include the smoke, though. That's included with the Lucas units, which is why they cost more.
The problem is once the smoke gets out you can’t put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pat...

Is it not possible to feed 12 volts to the built-in rheostat - separate from the low voltate supplied by the I**2 Master Controller??? I'm guessing your comment reveals a fact I had not caught - that the rheostat is driven from the common feed to the switch unit...

Sherrell
 

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I dont think this is what your are looking for, thought different last night, and I thought I saw a push pull switch maby a different post.

the push pull I saw was a ford switch with a alum knob. anyway I used switches out of a 67 +-years ford trucks I liked the bezels they used back then and I also used switches when available, these are available through LMC Truck, back then they had what I think cool looking bezels, for Light switch (got new switch), e-flasher (used origonal switch), heater (used supplyed switch), wiper (used origonal My instructions said there was no park but the wiper moter did have a park switch inside, and I made it work with the vintage switch), there are also choke and vent bezels I didnt need. you can get new knobs and new bezels and some of the switches, used a vintage key swirch but I think you have to use the plug out of trucks old harness, I aquired 2 or three of these old harness and used best parts
didnt get a picture of the light switch but it looks like the others tis on the left side of the wheel
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Originally posted by Sherrell:
Pat...

Is it not possible to feed 12 volts to the built-in rheostat - separate from the low voltate supplied by the I**2 Master Controller??? I'm guessing your comment reveals a fact I had not caught - that the rheostat is driven from the common feed to the switch unit...

Sherrell
That is what Chris told me, can not feed 12v through the switch.

I guess you could somehow rewire (separate) how the rheostat is feed but a different dim will not be a big deal.

Pat
 
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