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I looked at this one from DD:

MDX-2017-S-GSS-DIM (MDX is the km version of the VDX

you can get all kinds of interfaces as well for hooking up the engine data to the DD gauges

Robert
 

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I've looked at the Dakota Digital gauges as part of my planning. Both the HDX-2017 and VHX-1017 caught my eye. I'm favouring the VHX though. The digital message center in the HDX being front and center doesn't really work for me. These are hot rods, seems natural to have/want the speed and RPM info front and center.

Thanks for the all the info you're putting this build thread. Much appreciated, particularly by us newbies...

I bought the VHZ-1018 for my Hot Rod. I just liked the looks of it and went with the back background and the blue lighting. I also like the control unit that they use. Just wire it up, mount it and a single cat-5 cable to the unit and your done.


 

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Discussion Starter #143
I am finally starting to get some shop time! School starts next week and i should get my days off again. I was able to get out there today and extend the power steering wires.

I cut each wire on the control plug and used a trailer four wire bundle. I subbed the yellow for red. By offsetting the cuts and spices, it keeps the finished product thinner and cleaner with less bulk at the one spot. This is in the electric motor end.


Then I soldered and shrink wrapped each joint
https://i.imgur.com/9KK3TwZ.jpg[img]

Then I shrink wrapped over all joints to keep it tight and support the joints. And for even more protection.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ZjwhLy0.jpg

Then did the power and ground side the same way using 14 gauge wire (same as what’s on the motor)


Then i ran the wires along with the sending unit harness into the car. For final assembly, I will combine them into one loom but for now, it works better to keep separate for disassembly for paint and finish.

Did the same thing to the other end of both at the control box on left side of under dash area.



Boom. Easy peasy extending harness to the control box in a better place to withstand elements. Since the car will be driven, I have to plan on the possibility of rain and wet and this seemed the best course of action for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
I think I got more done yesterday than the entire summer. Hooked up ignition for the coyote controls pack (blue to start position of switch, pulled the RF blues off as they won’t be used, green with the RF orange on ignition switch, red to the two reds with RF on switch, ground to ground). Hooked up the fuel pump relay out from the controls pack to the fuel pump. But I have to redo that. I want it to go through the inertia switch and kick the relay in the RF instead. I’ll do that next week. Hooked up fan and ran main power to the controls pack black box. I put the fuse for it near the battery. All in all, I think the wiring is done (save for the fuel pump change).

Pic or two but I’ll put more up next update. Not much to see other than more and more wires.

My crimp and heat shrink job

 

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Discussion Starter #145
Today I fixed the fuel pump supply wiring. Using the ford controls pack to trip the relay in the Ron Francis panel. That will also supply the power to the pump. This allows the inertia switch to still work. The output for the pump is the unshrinkwrapped connection in this photo. The normal supply, I soldered a wire in to supply something else. Probably the power steering unit. The RF fan relay and supply also won’t be used (as the controls pack will control the fan) so it will supply probably my power windows.



Also did the cooling system today. I don’t like it. The lower is ok, not great. The upper and it’s curly que is terrible. I think I’ll be able to file off the locator peg on the coyote end and then rotate the ford connector up so it’s a short straight shot from the outlet to the radiator. That’s for another day though. Working towards starting it up at the moment. Buttoned up a few vac connections. Need a cap or two and a battery, and a coolant expansion tank (gotta figure out where to put it) and I think I’m ready!
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Lots of little stuff done today. Tried to mount a G75 battery. Didn’t work. Not even close. Just can’t get it in there and mr Tcollins way won’t work for me with the 3 link brace down there. So I picked up the odyssey and I’ll give it a shot. Everyone who has one says it does fine. And they will warranty it for 3 years.


Next on the list was to move the coolant sensor. I pulled it and repluggrd the spot FFR says to put it. My filter relocation bracket will put the oil pressure sensor in the way of using this spot. So, I used the small bleed in the motor outlet port and drilled and tapped it. A note about that spot. From the factory, that place is the high point of the system and bleeds back to the expansion tank. By changing ours to come off radiator, this spot gets plugged. And since there is a low enough place to allow a lute to form, it’s wuite common for these to vapor lock. This bleed almost has to be opened when filling and during first heat up to allow the air to purge and coolant to circulate correctly. I filled it today and let it purge and will unscrew it a couple times before and during first heat up.

Knocked it out from the back side with a pinch (it’s just a press fit in) and drilled and tapped (21/64” and 1/8 pipe threads).


Back in place with sensor loosely in and wire ran (had to extend it). I’ll add the wire to the harness loom on final assembly.



Next, I filed the square locating peg off the upper radiator hose connection so I could spin it around and make the upper look better. The peg goes into the wire receiving hole so I had to trim that out also since where I wanted it lined up with where the wire would fall. No sealing happens here, it seals on the smooth part that sticks out (the left side in pic). Then cut and reassembled hose. Ahh yes. Much better. Filled the systems with 50/50 (got 3.5 gallons in so far) and letting it sit.



No pic as it’s just there but temporarily mounted the FFR expansion tank with zip ties lol. I have an idea to tie that into the blower intercooler system I may try so I can do away with the expansion tank but That’s a ways off yet. If I can come up with a place for it, I’ll keep it. It won’t even close to fit by radiator like FFR says and sends a bracket for and I’m trying to keep the firewall clean.

So, hopefully Wednesday, I’ll fix the gas level sender seal issue, put some fuel in it, hook up the battery, prime and set fuel pressure and see if she’ll start. I have the trans cooler lines looped back to each other for now, and will need to fill it, so I may only run it for a minute, but I’m excited. After I get some trans fluid so I can fill that, I’ll run i and let it warm up to finalize coolant fill and check fan operation via the pcm.
 

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Water

I have found that the place that you put water temp sender is very good to let air out of engine when filling water first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I have found that the place that you put water temp sender is very good to let air out of engine when filling water first time.
As I posted that is exactly what it’s for by design. It’s worth you mentioning again though as people have had problems by not venting here. From factory, it vents to the expansion tank (which runs under pressure) and naturally vents the system. Being as we plug it, you almost have to vent it here to get it to work right and not vapor lock.
 

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Maybe its just the picture, but it looks to me like your lower rad hose is going to chafe on the front coil springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
It’s not how it will be permanently, but it does clear them. It’s centered between them. I think I’m going to make a hard line for the final assembly (or a breeze hose) though, and a brace in that area, to prevent it even moving over and bumping them.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
ITS ALIVE!!!

Hooked up battery and hit key and gauges came to life. Didn’t blow every fuse and coyote black box did it’s clicking. Fuel pump even ran.

Hopefully it’ll run in an hour or so.

 

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Congrats on the engine start. A big hurtle.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
As some of you know, when running a coyote with power steering, the oil filter won’t fit. Not even the small ac delco one. I chose an MMR relocation kit. It came with everything except a 1/4” and an 1/8” pipe plug. You can even move your oil pressure sender to the filter housing if you want to. The housing on the motor only has a single 1/4” pipe spot for a sender. I chose to leave it there, downstream of the filter and hoses. Overall, it’s a very good setup. Has the nylon covered braided hoses and good fittings. Only downside is if you are using braided stainless, it won’t match. But there are other options then.

Spent today making the hoses up, and mounting the filter. I made a steel backplate so that just the firewall aluminum isn’t the only thing holding the filter. Provably overkill but a piece of mind for me. It is welded to the angled brace behind the firewall and the bolts thread straight into it. Hose routing will be cleaned up and finalized later, after everything I need is mounted.




In other news, I got the fuel leak around the sender fixed. Had to tamp down the high part so it could seal right. So now it runs on its own gas tank supply. Also starting to look at how I’ll fill the trans. I think I’m going to cut an access hole in the tunnel and just glass it up after. I shouldn’t have to fill it again and future changes I’ll do on a lift.

All i need now is a driveshaft, shifter (its ordered), put my steering back together, and fill and energize the brake system and I think I’m ready for a go cart ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #155
The 6R80 transmission doesn’t use a slip yoke in the output. It has a flange. FFR doesn’t support this trans yet. So, after calling several online driveshaft shops as gasping at the price, I called my usual dude. He can make the driveshaft with the splined yoke in it, balanced and ready to bolt in for a much more reasonable cost. Still quite a bit more than the normal style shafts lol. So, I brought him the two flanges I have (one for each end) and the one new u joint I sourced from the FFR driveshaft. They have to order the parts for the slip yoke but said it should be ready by middle of next week. Another hurdle sorted and hopefully solved. I think that was the last “must have” hurdle, and everything else is “this’ll make it real cool” hurdles to make this trans work.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Picked up and installed the driveshaft. It’s 38 1/8” installed but the slip joint allows for the expansion and collapsing for movement. A grease fitting for the slip yoke fell perfectly accessible from the bottom. I did have to drop the rear end to get it in though.



 

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Discussion Starter #157
No photos, cause, let’s face it, filling and bleeding brakes ain’t no fun lol. Got them full to each corner, wired up the pump to the efi trigger wire from the RF harness (not used with coyote) and tied the power wire in at the frpp black box. Powered it up and nothing. After calling ABS, they think the pump is bad (and he sounded like wasn’t common, I hope it isn’t!). So they have a new pump on the way. I have fluid to the pump suction, but can’t get even a drop at the outlet. So they took care of me easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Well, I decided today that I need a place to grab battery +12 from. So I ran a line from the FRPP black box to the stud that the coyote kit comes with. I mounted it near the column near inertia switch. Now I have a place for my steering, brakes, heater/ac, windows and other incidentals that need power (amplifier will come off battery as it will be closer to it). Then I wired up my horns. Did some cleaning up of unused wires and shrink wrapped and got those bundled up. When I take apart for paint, I’ll lose all those wires and tuck my added wires into the harness. Also started wiring up my heater/ac but stopped as id rather have the brake pump in before I start trying to fit more stuff. Verified all indicator lights worked so that when I wire into the Dakota digital box, since body will be on, I hopefully won’t have to add anything. Cleaned up hanging wires (once everything functions, I’ll cut out and remove stuff like that, for now it’s getting wound up and tied away) working towards getting ready to go cart around a bit. Just need a brake booster pump and shifter!





 

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Discussion Starter #159
Extended the wires and mounted my floor mounted brights switch today. Made a bracket to hold it at a little angle and mount it up high and close to the side. So it’s unobtrusive and hidden as possible but still useable. It bolts to the 1.5”x1.5” upright on that side. Wiring is 12 gauge. Not much else I can do until I get my brake booster pump and shifter. Ac/heat wiring but using this chance to get some around the house work done.

 

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Discussion Starter #160
No new pics today, but a couple hurdles done. The brake pump from ABS came today so I swapped it out. And my electro hydraulic power brakes now work great! No leaks on my firs ever for me stainless lines with all AN fittings. And that’s a first also!

Picked up on wiring the ac/heat. Got blower going but the defrost/panel/floor wouldn’t change. The switch was working and the control box was working (+12 v was changing pins on switch and changing to where the control sent it on plugs) but they wouldn’t move. So called vintage air and they walked me through pulling the servo. The floor one, the doors where just stuck. Got it going. The panel one the servo isn’t working. So they got one coming to me to replace it.
 
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