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Discussion Starter #61
No, I haven't. I need to! Thanks for the link, Paul! I looked for videos and threads but I admit my search skills are lacking. I do pprecoate that.
You should check out Eric Hansen's YouTube video series on the 33 HR doors. Just search 33 Hot Rod Door Install. It is a 5 part series. They are very informative.
Will do. Thanks!
 

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Unfortunately, the PhotoBucket ransom image has ruined a number of 33 build threads. :sad:

But, if you haven’t seen it already, this build thread by Bill/Rumbles is worth a read. :cool:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/238841-rumbles-build.html

He even created a Build Journal for Kindle.

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Builder-Journal-Factory-Racing-ebook/dp/B01C3A6LMU?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

I know seeing how other people tackled their build really helped me get my kit (not a FFR) on the road.

Good luck, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Paul, I had read through that thread (I think lol). I've tried to check out all threads I could all the way back to the beginning.

The Hansen videos where wonderful. Good guidance there.

Got the slots done in the jambs today. Got passenger door trimmed to fit into its opening and had to stop to help my pastor fix his wife's buggy. Bad dpfe hose. I'll post more pics and details when I get more done that just a little fiberglass sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
More doors. Hey, that rhymes.

Got about 10 hours in the passenger door so far. It's close. The striker sits too deep and I may need to adjust the angle on it's plate. The latch is dragging on it. I will attempt to move the door forward some after I affix the rear plate better than the little screws. I've used a combination of FFR instructions and the members videos (thanks to all). Before I attempt to move the door, so it'll latch easier and open easier, I will have to take a little off the front. The rear gap should wind up perfect then.

Adjusting body panels really isn't my forte. Lol

 

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Discussion Starter #65
This passenger door is kicking my behind. But I think I'm on the right track now.

It kept binding on the striker when closed. So I did several things trying to get it right. Moved it forward, changed the rear depth, etc. to no avail. Finally I saw it was dropping when off the striker to the slack in the hinge bushings. Well that ain't right. After lots of work, I finally realized that it was sitting on the bottom, and that was making everything out of whack. So I took some off the bottom edge and now it finally lines up and opens and closes without a problem. I haven't reinstalled the latch yet, but I will adjust it to fit the door on the proper place instead of trying to get the door on the right place by adjusting the latch. If that makes sense. Finally, it works like it's supposed to swing! Now to install the striker and then trim it to the correct gaps. I'll install latch tomorrow but I won't trim it until I blow it up to finish it.

Pic but can't really see anything different than before.

 

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Discussion Starter #66
GOT IT!

Hah. Finally. After getting the door working right without the striker, I had to remove the built on washer from the striker and make a bushing to push it 3/8" out. Then I had to lengthen the slots in the striker plate, mainly on the bottom. Once I did that, I was able to get it to strike just right. Works like a dream now.


 

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Looks like you are working very hard to get it right.. I would strongly suggest that the car be sitting on the suspension before going too much farther. The chassis does flex and will mess up your gaps. I know from my own experience. Please be cautious because proper body lines and door fitment are a make or break on finished product.
When I did mine I had jack stands under rear axle and front tires on ramps to simulate vehicle sitting on ground only at working height.

Neal
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Thanks for the advice, Neal.

For now, I have the gaps very very tight. In fact, one spot it rubs when I open the door. I will take your advice and set it on the suspension for final gapping and adjustment. I want to have the motor and trans in it when I do that though so the suspension is loaded close to like it will be when final. I'll do that right before I blow it up to finish. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #69
After many hours learning on passenger door, driver was a lot easier. I had to drill new holes in the striker plate and make a spacer for the striker also. It's still not latching all the way, but it might be the spacer is a shade too long and the striker head is hitting something. I got tired of messing with it today though so I'll check that out Friday. And I put the top on just to see what it looks like. Cocky!! I may end up leaving the top on more than off!




 

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Discussion Starter #70
Got the drivers door dialed in. Had to trim a shade off the spacer I made for the striker. Works wonderfully now. I have a lot more work to do (start installing power windows, door handles, etc) but taking a break from doors. I threw the striker and hinge trim panels in. And moved on to the back. I drew out the lights, to make sure sizes are right. What's your opinion (see photo)? 9" hagan teardrops and 4" ovals where the stock ones would go for then signals. I've already cut those spots out to fill them flush to the back. Waiting on my resin to get here to start patching. I'm thinking I want red tear drops and orange turn signals but unsure how that'll look. I am not a fan of white or clear rear lights, but that's not out of the warrior (with colored led's instead). Or would you to red lens for them all?

Started trimming the trunk opening. Nothing magical there.




I sure am glad I don't have the motor and trans in it yet. I've spent quite a bit of time sitting in that hole.
 

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Whilst not a '33, there is a guy in the UK who has a vaguely similar rear light set up on his old Ford.



Hope that helps, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks, Paul, actually it does give me an idea. I wasn't sure how the two colors would look on the (probably) yellow body but that does help.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Not much done today. Fitting the trunk. No pics there, just sanding fiberglass.

I did make a decision on the lights. I?ll be going with only the teardrops. However, in them I will have 3 strips of led?s. One 9? strip will be brake lights only. I am gonna try (after talking to hagan) to add a second 9? strip in each side. That one will be running lights and turn signals using the high/low toggle input. The brake light strip will be high only. The other option is a 9?, a 6? and a 4?. Each with its own function. 9 is brakes, 6 is park and 4 is signals. I may not know if it?ll work until it?s in and wired but there will still be time to change my mind if it doesn?t. Oh, last option is 9? low is park, high is brake, and figure out how to add a small, maybe 1157 size led, to the bottom of the rear drop for a signal. Any of those 3 options would keep them all in one teardrop.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Two days off work is nice.

Got trunk all fit. Got latch and cable installed and trunk aluminum in. And release. I feel like I should do something different with it but undecided yet. Maybe a popper and button where the release is? I have time to think about that. I do have to adjust it a little. Had to quit so that?ll be next week. Overall, nothing astonishing yet. The prop rod I?m not fond of so considering options to replace it also.

Set the top on and marked so I can figure out gas cap. I?d like to use a hagan with the box and lid and all. We?ll see when I decide to tackle sorting it out. And had to have some fun while the top was on.



 

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Discussion Starter #76
Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain?t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn?t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I?m just degreasing fiberglass.


 

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Discussion Starter #77
I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

 

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I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

I like the look with the hood on better too. maybe install a (cloth) sun-roof???

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

I like the look with the hood on better too. maybe install a (cloth) sun-roof???

Robert
Good idea! Maybe even a glass sunroof!

Thanks, Robert!
 
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