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I wouldn't want a car built with a bunch of brake lines that I couldn't get a wrench on, after the body was installed. Seems like a major flaw with the FFR design. I can inspect, remove and replace any part of my brake system with the car up on a lift - everything is under the floor and attached to the frame.

The same thing goes for the AC system. I can remove and replace any hose without removing the dash. If the evaporator unit fails in some way, then my console and dash must come off - still not more than an extra hour of work to remove. If the condenser fails, it only take 15 minutes to remove the grille to access the condenser and hoses. Most Oze cars require removing the hood, front fenders and hood sides, so the grille can be removed and access gained to the condenser. I fixed mine, so that's not required.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Ok. Calling brakes done with mock up. I may charge the system later on but all equipment and pipes and tubes are in place. Finished up the hydraulic pump mount today and tubed everything up. When I take apart for paint, I've got a couple hose clamps to mount to the frame but otherwise, time to move on (after I get home from family beach trip).

Personally, I like the way it turned out.

Next I'll rough in some wiring, I think.

 

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Sorry, I missed this questions.

For flaring, I used the rigid 41162 377 flaring tool. It works wonderfully on the stainless. Flares and burnishes. Course I'll know more after I actually put fluid in it lol.

For straightening the coiled tubing I used Eastwood EW30537 handheld straightener. Took some learning but it works plenty well enough.

Cutting I used a tubing cutter I had here. No
Magic to that. And bending I also used the same one I used to build my last 2 cobras and a t bucket. I remember I picked it up at the local parts store but there's no name on it. Thats been 15+ years. But the flaring tool is the big important one when doing brakes, either 37* or 45*
Thanks for the information. How are things in gator country.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Sorry, I missed this questions.

For flaring, I used the rigid 41162 377 flaring tool. It works wonderfully on the stainless. Flares and burnishes. Course I'll know more after I actually put fluid in it lol.

For straightening the coiled tubing I used Eastwood EW30537 handheld straightener. Took some learning but it works plenty well enough.

Cutting I used a tubing cutter I had here. No
Magic to that. And bending I also used the same one I used to build my last 2 cobras and a t bucket. I remember I picked it up at the local parts store but there's no name on it. Thats been 15+ years. But the flaring tool is the big important one when doing brakes, either 37* or 45*
Thanks for the information. How are things in gator country.
Well, we over in Bama beach on vacation ATM. It was all good just hot and humid. Typical summer lol! But I enjoy that actually.

nice build
Thanks, whernand.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Installed the grill stack today. After about 20 hours of getting it all to fit together right. Forgot the overflow tank. I'll toss it in next week when I work on it.

This really makes it start looking like a 33 and not a dune buggy.



 

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Are you going to eventually pull everything off it to paint/powder the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Are you going to eventually pull everything off it to paint/powder the frame?
Yessir. Once all fab done, and everything has a place and fits, all holes drilled, body panels all fit and body work done and such, I'll blow it up. Most of suspension will get powder coated, along with some bolts, some will be chromed, frame will be painted body color (unless I find a powder that matches). Aluminum will all be powder coated save the firewall will be done body color. I may even drive it before I take apart to finish it.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Nothing major today. Spent the last week nursing my baby girl then myself back to health after stomach flu. Yesterday I prepped the cobra and brought it to church for a men's night attraction. Other people think it's nicer than j do, I guess lol. I did finally figure out its motor noise so that's a plus.

Modded and tossed on the pickup and level sensor and tossed in the rear compartment panel. I'm mounting with just a couple rivers and drilling all girls to make removal easy for paint and powder coat later. I think I'll go ahead and mount all aluminum and get the body started so I can be done with the manual lol.

 

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I don't share the concerns that others have and your installation on the brakes. I have used the hydroboost system on my Cobra for 9 years and no regrets. That's the main reason I chose ABS for my 33 build. I did enough research on the system I have high confidence in it. I did decide I would use an indicator light to show when the pump is running and have been researching a reliable, cost effective hydraulic switch that will also illuminate a light in the event of pressure loss.

The power steering pump is the power source for my hydroboost system and the pump is mechanical. With ABS and an electric/hydraulic source, I wanted to monitor the motor operating time. The pump only runs long enough to pressure the accumulator, so the light shouldn't be on much. If it is, cause for investigation. The system should always be at operating pressure ranges, so the hydraulic switch would have a normally closed contact so that a loss in system pressure below operating ranges would illuminate a light.

The are a number of cars out there today with electric power steering and brakes, so I shouldn't feel a need for an alarm system of sorts but I'll feel better with it. I have similar lights on my Cobra that are bright LED and very small.

Nice clean installation you've done. Mine will be similar but the older MCs are longer and complicates it a bit. I believe Bruce has his system pressurized now and seems to be working. The only suggestion I have is that you be sure to brace the line from the pump to the MC well. You could check with ABS, but a high pressure hose should work there as well and might be easier to run/brace. Nice build
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks, tim! Compliments from you def mean a lot.

I'll def brace that line then. Good point. That's a good run that can flex.

Otherwise, I'm not worried about it either. At worst, I'll have manual brakes if it fails and I've got them in my mk4 anyway. When I get the running and drive it a bit, I plan to kill power to the pump to see what happens. There should be a time where the brakes get harder over a period and give warning. I thought about a light akin to what you posted and we spoke about but elected to not do that. I may or may not add it later depending on how loud the pump is. Since it is behind my dash, I should be able to possibly hear it. I reserve the right to change my mind on that later in the build lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Had to work some overtime and keep baby boy a couple days. Not much done in the last week or so. Finally had some free time today to do some "loomium" work. E-brake stuff tomorrow.

 

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Discussion Starter #54
Put in the e brake handle today. Gotta wait on the trans tunnel for the motor and trans. Installed trunk floor, door hinges and set the body on. This weekend I'll watch some videos and read some threads about how best to ensure it's in the right place. I already see where I need to grind some glass around the bottom of the firewall. Not quite clearances correctly to fit. Nothing major changed from FFR build other than I had to turn the e brake mounting pad to opposite side to get the handle to mount in the right place.

I think now I'll go on to getting all the body panels to fit and work correctly. After that, when it comes off for primer and slicking, then I'll get the motor and trans and continue the mechanical parts, fuel lines, etc. Just keep saving, just keep saving (wasn't that a line off finding nemo?)

Looking more and more like a car!

 

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Discussion Starter #55
Good day today!

I started out by trimming the edge of the body at the lower. Firewall corners so they would tuck correctly. Then I trimmed the edge of the lip there so it wouldn't hit the frame and prevent the body from pulling in just right. Before and mid trim. Didn't get a decent after shot, just be warned the manual doesn't say anything about this and it won't fall in just right without it.



Next, I spent a couple of hours shifting, moving and checking the body, and then calling friends to come see if they found it to be square also. I followed the manual, and when I got done, the package tray was nowhere near the same plane as the cowl. Wut???? So I backed up and it dawned on me that the manual sucks. It never specifies to level up the *** end. Yeah, I shoulda got my head out my butt. So, after this:


I ended up with this:


So, then I had a couple people come over and double check both with tape and level and by eye to ensure it all looked right. Got their deals of approval. Everything looks plumb, square, straight and the gig line, when I put the hood on, even though it's not ground close to right, all looks like it's supposed to and not cattywompus.

So, I went ahead and drilled all the holes and tossed a few rivers at it to hold everything in place while I move forward fitting body panels.

Looking like a car more and more.

 

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Discussion Starter #56
Couple hours today working on door slots. The manual doesn't detail how to mark the bottom ones or how or when to cut them out. Jumps from marking to putting body back on. Oh well. Here's what I did.

I marked the top and cut it out with a die grinder with body on. Test fitting hinge arm pretty often. Once I had the clearance, I used a rasp to square off the ends. I'll make that better when I take it off for final prep. Then, I measured the distance from the top of the top hinge standoff to the top of the bottom hinge standoff and then measured that distance from the slot top and bottom. That gave me the upper and lower of the lower arm cutout. Then I used a plumb to mark the ends. The cut it out just like the top slot. Worked like a champ.

Even though everything measures the same side to side, the driver upper slot ended up shorter than the passenger *boggle*.

 

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… The manual doesn't detail how to mark the bottom ones or how or when to cut them out. Jumps from marking to putting body back on
SVTFreak – Have you been watching the videos posted by Mark/S13?

As he covered the doors in detail here.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/5778457-post107.html

As his build appears to be ahead of yours I am sure you will find lots of helpful stuff in his videos.

Good luck, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #58
? The manual doesn't detail how to mark the bottom ones or how or when to cut them out. Jumps from marking to putting body back on
SVTFreak ? Have you been watching the videos posted by Mark/S13?

As he covered the doors in detail here.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/5778457-post107.html

As his build appears to be ahead of yours I am sure you will find lots of helpful stuff in his videos.

Good luck, Paul.
No, I haven't. I need to! Thanks for the link, Paul! I looked for videos and threads but I admit my search skills are lacking. I do pprecoate that.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I've got weird stuff going on. I put the spacer under the door on passenger side and got everything leveled and clamped down and firewall fitting well all around and looks great. Except the drivers side door sill is naturally sitting about a 1/2" off the 1.5x1.5 frame. I don't see any reason to try to fix this as everything else fits perfectly and is straight and square. Anyone see any problems in my future over this? The frame does not hand below the body.
 

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No, I haven't. I need to! Thanks for the link, Paul! I looked for videos and threads but I admit my search skills are lacking. I do pprecoate that.
You should check out Eric Hansen's YouTube video series on the 33 HR doors. Just search 33 Hot Rod Door Install. It is a 5 part series. They are very informative.
 
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