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Discussion Starter #261
Today, I reinforced the trunk lid some. I didn’t like how much flex there was between the inner and outer skins, really letting that outer move a lot. So I cut 4 holes, sanded the edges to give it some slope to the edges and made some wood plugs. I used resin and glued those plugs in, and reglassed over the tops of the plugs to affix the inner and outer skins together. I patched up the spot in the X that I cut to allow it to relax. While I had it out and was glassing, I used some 1/4” chopped filler to complete filling in Tim Whittaker’s trunk braces.

 

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Discussion Starter #262
Today, I built a relay box for controlling my second fuel pump, intercooler pump and low temp cooler fans. I didn’t want relays and all just hanging around so I did this with terminal strips to have 2 powers, one ground, signal from ecu and signal from the Hobbs switch in the Intake. Then there is 3 power outlets. One for the fuel pump, one for the fans and one for the ic pump.

Here’s the box internals.


The Hobbs switch in the intake. The wires will get added to existing loom when I pull it apart for paint.


I had a hard time calibrating the switch to 2.5 psi. It would pressure up way too fast. So I made a resevoir with pipe I had laying around to slow down the rate it pressured up and allow me to get it just right.


Then it just got too hot so I called it a day.

I do want to run this by you guys. I don’t like the hood mounts being just rivnuts. Swapping to the gen 2 hinges, I need to move them. I think I’m gonna cut a slot where I have the yellow mark, slide in and resin/glass in a piece of 1/4” plate the shape of the red box. Then fill the holes andthe slot back up so the plate is bonded in well. Then I will drill and tap the plate for the hood mount bolts. Anyone see any problem with that? Should be a whole lot more durable than the ffr way of doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Not sure if I posted here that I bought the gen 2 hood hinges. Got them assembled and the driver side one hit my air filter. So I cut a wedge extension to move it down and in some.
Here it is hitting the hinge

Figured out the angle, cut the wedge out of the same 5” exhaust pipe I made version 1 with, and welded it to v1. Now, I’m no trained welder so after a bit of grinding and putting some body filler on the outside (since it’s gone be painted anyway) to help smooth the surface and seal:

The surface that it’s sitting on is the end I added the part to.

ill fill and smooth the rest later. Before paint (I’ll be painting it, the blower, the engine and trans also)
Now, it is out of the way!


The kiddos and wife are going back to school soon and time should increase for me. As I’ve said before, I don’t work on it when they are home. As long as corona stays away enough. I got the 13 year old watching the 3 year old for me long enough to try to knock this out. But they got in a tiff before I could even test start it so maybe next week....
 

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Discussion Starter #264
Finally got the hood hinges working right, and the blower intake in the right place out of the way.

On to redoing thehinge mounts. I don’t like the way ffr says to do it so I am installing a 1/4” plate that will be bonded in. Thisplate will get threadedso the bolts go into there In stead of rivnuts.

I cut a slot and drilled out the old rivnuts. Then I made 2 plates to go in. I roughed up and cut valleys to help the resin have a place to grab. I tried to stay out of the way of where the bolts would go so the valleys wouldn’t cause a bit to walk. I drilled and tapped the plates so I could use a small bolt to hold them in place with a piece of wood to tighten against.




Once all parts was ready, I dipped the little bolts in minwax to hopefully allow them to release. If not, I can justgrind them flush. I painted thickened resin on the back side of the hood flat (after roughing up a little with a long bit in my grinder). Painted it up good on the metal plate, inserted through the slot (using a paint paddle to hold it up). Then I used the small bolt and the paddle to pull it up tight. I used a syringe to shoot resin in before pulling it up to ensure it had plenty. Now I’m letting that cure. Next week, I’ll mix some up with some chopped strand and paint it in the back real well to increase strength. Then fill and smooth the slots and the holes used to get it all bonded.


I also see that my hood has widened a bit at the bottom due to cutting the liner to clear the blower. The front is easy, the gen 2 hinges allow some room to pull them closer together which will pull the front sides in just right. But the back, I will make a plate that will sit perfectly behind the blower in the space before the firewall, and connect the sides using the flats where the pin mounts went on the gen 1 hinge system. That’ll allow me to pull the sides in. I’ll prolly design it out of cardboard and find someone locally to water get it out of 1/16” for me. That should allow me to get the rear to line up just perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #265
I did a whole bunch today but not much to post pics of. I finished filling the slot that i has cut to slide the steel plate in for the hinge mount. After bevelling the edges and laying cloth in (3 layers) and let that cure, I cleaned it up and then layed in some chopped strand to get the thickness back and some more strength. I used that to fill the holes in the top also. After cleaning up and a little skim coat of filler, you’ll never know I did surgery.

Also today, I extended the mounting tabs for my seat back so it reached the new position of the bottom since I lowered the bottoms. I also cleaned up the glass I used on the inside of the trunk lid but found a weak area so beveled that and filled it back in with resin and chopped strand also. Hopefully, Monday I can clean it and the hood up, throw some filler in and get that cleaned up and start the process of getting them on and right.
 

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Discussion Starter #266
Got the seats modified and lowered. Trimmed the inserts to fit the new position and modified the center hump frame to fit. Still have to build the center insert.


Then I knocked down the filler and tossed some primer over the patches where I added the plate for the hood hinge. Got a few pinholes. I’ll catch that on final slicking of everything.


Then I moved on to making the brace to pull the rear edges in. Getting this to line up just right is going to be tricky. It seems the hood wants to bow up on each end also. I’m hoping that pulling them in will get it shaped into place but I’m already considering how to fix that. It may end up requiring some glass ribbing. That’s gonna get tricky with the blower there. Anyway, here is the cardboard pattern then a 1/4” wood pattern that I can bring to the metal shop and have it water jetted out.

 

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Looks like you've ticked off a lot of 'fiddly' jobs recently. :cool:

Did you get a chance to test start the engine?

Good luck, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Looks like you've ticked off a lot of 'fiddly' jobs recently. :cool:

Did you get a chance to test start the engine?

Good luck, Paul. :)
Yes, Paul I have been able to get a lot of little things done. But then had to pull the kids back out of school due to covid for a couple weeks. I love my church and school but I don’t think they are doing quite enough to prevent it. I think God have is the good sense to know when to do something so he don’t have to! Yessir, I did get it started and have a base custom tune in it. I need to go drive it a bit to data log and get it finalized. She seems to run well just up and down the street finally!

Today I finished up the Tim Whittaker KVC trunk shocks. It fits great except the bottom is ever so slightly poked out when the shocks are installed. Not sure why, it’s easy to push into place it just doesn’t stay. The latch won’t hold it in place either. So off I go to troubleshoot that. I’m waiting on the good brace from the water jet shop. They (as well as most of south Louisiana) has to take some time off while Laura made her pass through. I’m over near Baton Rouge so it didn’t affect us other than some rain and a good breeze. But those people in west Louisiana and East Texas got it bad. I expected much worse, maybe the rebuild after Rita was up to better code. Only thing I can surmise to why everything isn’t gone like Biloxi after Katrina and that same area after Rita. Anyway, I digress...

Pics!



 

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Discussion Starter #269
Today, I mounted the hood up. I’m still missing the brace for the back to keep everything at the right width. I’ll call that shop later.

Scribed and predrilled for the mount holes


Drilled, clearanced the glass and aluminum them tapped the steel plate we put in


Hood installed. No more rivnuts! Much more solid than it was. Plenty of clearance to the air filter.



Opens great. Gonna have to put stops so the arms don’t hit the radiator. No prop rod yet. I may try to incorporate a single gas strut on the passenger side (running out of room on driver).


Pic of the whole car. Back is up cause I’m still monkeying with the trunk. Trying to figure out how to fix the lower corner. They poke out thickness of the glass only when the shocks are installed. Might be flexing the trunk but might be just rotating the skin around a little. Trying to figure best way to fix it, but might have to strengthen the hinge mount area. If so, I’ll be doing the plate mod there also and tacking it into the KVC trunk radius rods.

Starting to look like a hot rod!


After this, I went for a putt down the street lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #270
Monkeyed with the trunk lid awhile yesterday. Was able to get it just about right. Need to fit it to the opening now. The latch was a jerk though. The shoulder bolt either hits the body and latch or catches the head on the latch. Actually both. So I cut out the body a little and I put a longer shoulder bolt. Have to get it fit right in the opening now. But didn’t feel like getting glassy today.

My hood brace was done so I grabbed it and installed it. Fits great. Falls in the perfect spot between the blower and firewall. I did install the prop rod for now. I’ll prolly, even if I get a shock working, leave the call stud and clip on the car even when finished.



Now, I need help to get the hood curved back down and the sides pulled in. But my dad left for a week and my neighbor (who builds real deal big block racing motors) has diabetes. I don’t wanna chance Giving him the covid just in case I have it at any time since I’m out and about and working. So, the pics below, showing how the hood shape changed a bit when I redid the liner for the blower hump, will have to wait till dad gets back. Yeah, I have some aligning to do, the hood and radiator all need to come back some. The ends will suck in and I’m planning on putting about 3-4 L brackets on the brace up to the hood to hold its shape from side to side. They’ll be adjustable also.



I did go measure a mile so I could calibrate the speedometer. Almost went to do it, but it’s hot and I’ve got a few things to do before I can drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Got parts in! Door handles. guess I’ll mess with them while I keep putting off sanding fiberglass. Lol


I layed out where I want them and actually screwed them down. Traced the outline for the hole needed.

Cut the hole. The bracket doesn’t land correctly the way it comes. So I bent it to a steeper angle on each side and cut it to just be held in by tension. Then I decided I wanted the bracket to stay put permanently. So I welded a couple tabs on each end, and glassed that puppy in place. I put a little thickened resin, after prepping the surfaces, and used the handle to hold it in. After it cured, I took the handle out and overlayed glass with resin to add some strength. Also used some flocked resin to fill in corners and add strength. There shouldn’t be a lot of force on the bracket but I’d rather it not fall off if I pull the handle for some reason later on.
Finished product.




My second resin application is curing so now I guess I gott find something else to do while the cleaning lady is inside the house.
 

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Discussion Starter #272
2 updates in one day, wow!
I’d say that’s pretty dadgum close!

Let me be perfectly clear and say my problems where not caused by Tim’s trunk lid arms and shocks. They just made it hard to fix due to the stiffness of the lid now. Which I like better. For those who didn’t see, my lower corners where out about the thickness of the glass when everything else lined up
Here’s what I did and found.

1) my trunk lid wasn’t fit good enough. It was too tight. I got the gaps closer to right. Sanded a bit off

2) from where the corners where poking out, I barely loosened the hinge bolts they hold the L bracket to the arm and tapped it forward about the glass thickness.

3) I redid the gap along the front. It was rubbing after that adjustment.

4) reinstalled the lid and without the shocks, it was sitting low.

So far, I did all this with only the bumpers along the top so the height was right there. It started going low to the body several inches above the bottom corners, and then was resting on the glass at the bottom, about 1/2 the glass thickness.

5) put the shocks on and that pushes the bottom out just perfect that it now lines up. Almost perfectly everywhere but the center of the bottom. That’s still a little high. I’m gonna try to suck it in with the latch. I was able to do this with the latch.




40 grit on the DA makes a little ouch REAL fast when you not paying attention to where your hand is.


Now. Gotta get the hood right, the lower cone right. Door panels in. Latches finished, console done, and intercooler system done. Then I think I’m ready to blow it up for paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Got around to working some today. First thing I did was fix the latch position on the passenger door. It was too far in. I slotted the holes in the door edge and moved the whole latch out. I still have to move the shoulder bolt to match and realign the door. Meanwhile, I made the bracket to mount the pulley for the cable.


I flipped the cable and out the ball stud on the latch end. This put the adjustment at an easier to get to place. I installed the pulley pretty far back to get a straighter pull off the handle and a pretty straight shot from the arm on the latch. Boom. Works perfectly. Now to do driver side tomorrow and realign the doors. I’m going to fine tune the driver door fit a bit while tinkering with it.

 

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Discussion Starter #274
Got the passenger door lined up and works great! Now to just throw some weatherstripping in and make sure. That should give it just the right force to make the pop a little better. Lemme see if I can link this video.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Finally got around to using my hood brace to set the hood width. It worked! Yeah, I have to move the grill back a bit and get the gaps right. But now I know it’ll work.



Next, I’m going to make 2 L brackets per side that will keep the hood top shape in place better.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Finally got my rod ends and worked on the door latch. The handle end, by using the ball stud, that became the better leverage. So I ended up with 1:1 at the pivot. You can see the different points I tried. It’s stiffer than before but only because now there is no stretch. MUCH safer and not right on the edge of popping now!


Here is final. I think the angled pivot bar need to be turned around to increase leverage and make it easier to pop. Not sure what I was thinking assembling it that way. Gonna try that tomorrow. But that might actually make me have to remake the rod to the latch. Oh well. Gonna tweak that tomorrow and move to drivers side with still is giving me fits getting it to latch on the shoulder bolt just right.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Today, I finished the brackets to keep the hood center in position. Goofball me measured the holes from two different edges so I have to redo them in the cross brace. But they work! The hood curve matches the body and the sides meet up just right. Did a little more gap work so I can get it back mounted to finalize gaps. Maybe tomorrow.

Also pulled all the plugs checking for an injector leaking down. Didn’t find any fuel puddles. So I turned on the key and system pressured up almost instantly. Only thing I did was add fuel to tank the other day. Maybe my hard start and hard priming was caused by not quite enough fuel in the tank. Gonna try that tomorrow.

 

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Discussion Starter #278
Worked on the hood latch. Remade the hood brace to be a bit beefier to double as a latch mount. The shoulder bolt is on here but I forgot to get a photo of that. Will be slotting for it but it landed perfect for now.


I did mount the latch exactly like ffr said. May have to slit those holes side to side a bit.


Landed perfectly. The only problem I have is that the latch doesn’t have enough spring to push the hood up when you release it. I need it to pop up to get my fingers under it. I thought about a couple of springs like new cars have but rather keep it cleaner. Can I wind the spring in the latch up more? Anyone do that, or have any ideas?


Aint she sexy....
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Ok. Well, I been fighting the hood for awhile. Can’t get it to pop up just a touch when released. I have the latch from gen 1 on it, maybe it doesn’t have enough spring? I can’t feel that drastic of a difference between them. Anyway, so I decided to tackled something easier today, after monkeying with about 5 ideas that didn’t work on the hood.

I finally got a new (real) rivnut tool. So I put the bottom ones in, marked and cut the panel I previously formed. Then did the top. Then I made 3 little brackets to hold it all together in the right place along the middle. Mixed up some resin and two layers of glass. This will hold it when I take it off and build the strength in on the back side with about 5 layers. Then I can shape the front to match the curve and not be a peak. Passenger done! Drivers next week maybe. Running out of time today. I’m hoping life is a little more normal soon and allows some work time. It’s so close to ready for paint. The list is short But a few items are going to take lots of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #280
Pulled the door panels off. They fit really close! Was supposed actually. So I reinforced the back sides of them and put them back on to cure. That should keep them in the right place permanently. Ill put a little more once this cures but I am very happy with how they turned out so far
 
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