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Discussion Starter #241
Today, first thing I did was put the top on and mimick several different seating positions. Once I figured out what i liked, the top came off and I finished making and tacking up the seat frames. Decided to tie the back to the bottoms for support. The bottom frames will go in first l, following by the seat back (which will have the foam and material on it), then the center frame, then the 3 parts that make up the seating surface and “arm rest/center pad”. If it comes out like I am envisioning, I think it’ll look good and be real comfy. Tomorrow, I may try to start on the wood parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #242
Built the wood seat bottoms and back today. Inserts fit just great. Still have to set up the webbing but not while I’m in and out a lot. Got the drivers side filler for the back side done with plenty extra material. The interior guy can final shape that to kinda match the waterfall. I envision the front side seat back kinda following the curve also.

 

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Discussion Starter #243
Today, I made the filler part for passenger side then changed my mind. Took them both out. Gonna let the interior dude figure the best way to do it when the time comes.

I sat in the passenger side and marked where the tailbone fell. Cut out the area, radiused the edges well so it wouldn’t cut the web, and webbed it with 2” elastic webbing material. Used 2 flat bars and vice grips to pull it tight to staple it.
Layed our the first ones

Stapled them along one side and the top. Then pulled every other one up, layed the side down, then pulled tide down and the others up until all cross ones where tight and staples. Then pulled the long ways ones tight and stapled.



Once done, when finger tapped, it sounds like a drum.

Tested it out. Sat in the car and thought “wow, I can’t feel a difference. That kinda sucks”. But then I sat in the driver side to mark it and realized that it’s a huge difference.
Went ahead and cut out the driver side and seat back at pressure areas and radiused the edges. Had to call it a day to head to school for the kiddos thanksgiving lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Got the blower inlet finished today. Primed up the fuel system and set the pressure. Then I made a couple aluminum plates to protect the waterfall, whatever finish I decide to do on it, when putting the tabs in and sliding the seat back down. Also called power by the hour and got set up with an NGage device and Lund to do the tune for the blower. It should be ready to run and drive up and down the street again when it gets here.

 

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Discussion Starter #245
Cut patterns and then cut out the door panels. Typical ffr fashion, they are not mirror images side to side. The cut the patterns and started on the console. Trying to keep it as low a profile as possible just enough to hide the shifter parts. The boot will cover a large chunk of the chunky top section. The console front vertical oart will house the ac controls and center vents.
Patterns!



Parts!



Assembling the console and making cross braces. Now that the basic shape is done, it’s time to mount it to finish it up. But, that’s enough for today. My 3 weeks off netted good progress. I hope when i get back to work, things are normal and i can continue this next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #246
Finally got the webbing and staples to finish the seat webbing. Also, after some thought, I didn’t like the idea of using wood screws to hold the back to the frame. They are not known to stay put especially when taken out and put back in a few times. So I went and got some T-Nuts and long machine screws and installed them. Now I can redo as often as needed and I will loctite them on final assembly. While I was at it (no pic) I remade one of the 2x2 braces to fit the frame better for better support.

 

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Discussion Starter #247
Finished up putting the seats in today. Then i loaded up the Lund Supercharger tune. After a serious backfire, it fired right up and idles nicely. She’s a little slow on the initial start but it hoping that works itself out as the ecu learns. Then we went for a ride. Holy beetleguise, the trans is too tight. Pushing through the brakes bad, pushing the car when front end locked up and spinning tires when not. I’ve emailed about setting the trans cal back completely like stock. It was perfect that way since the car is so light. Then I set the hood on it for a little look-see out in the light and a photo to make my mind up on side panels or not.



 

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Discussion Starter #248
Been a bit. For those who haven’t seen my other thread. Having some trans trouble. Had some brake trouble. While the body was off changing master cylinder, I’m doing some things I been wanting to do. The valve body for my trans is at the shop now. He’s checking it out but we are pretty certain is the converter dragging. Once he opens the filter, we should have a better idea. Meantime, today I straightened all the body edges, and trimmed them back to a more appealing width. Also, I drilled and tapped for locating bolts for the door hinges. I’m going to remove them for body installation and removal from now on to hopefully make it a little easier.



For those that didn’t see, this was in my trans pan on the magnet. After just a couple of miles, literally only like 3 or 4, and a total of about 25 more minutes running in gear on jack stands, neither of us think this should be here. There is also a light dusting of it in the pan before I cleaned it. It is ferrous.

 

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Discussion Starter #249
While I’m waiting on my valve body, I filled the old gas cap place that wasn’t working so well. I decided I want to flush mount it, so I thickened up the area with 5 more layers of mat. It’s kinda cool today so I got a heat lamp going to help kick it off.


Trans dude had called and I went to get it, but when I got there, he had researched more and found that to properly test the valves, he needed some little tools. He had used12v and blew through them but couldn’t be certain on one (the torque converter one to be exact) that it was working right. Said if I had time, he would test them again with the right tools. Of course i have time. I’d love to find a problem and not have to pull the motor!
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Long break. I’m sure I could have found something to do, but decided to take a break and wait on the new converter. Elected to try a yank 3400. But they had some supply issues with the virus and all so it took him a bit to get it built and to me. Then work changed my schedule so had to wait. Started tearing it apart today. I made a plate to bolt to the blower intake so I can lift it evenly. I’m going to pull only the motor. Had a little help at one point. Pics only of plate and help. We’ve all seen motors pulled and installed lol. Hopefully I’ll have time to get it out and back in with new converter tomorrow. Working around all 3 kids and wife being home so not working all day. Taking this time to also spend time with them.


 

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Discussion Starter #251
Got the motor out, converter swapped and motor back in. Lining it up was actually pretty easy. Went slow, leveled it with the leveler to get the flanges parallel, eased it back, got one bolt started, pulled up the other side to twist it around and it fell into place. I think I’m young to do it that way on final assembly when everything is painted. Just a couple pics for fun

 

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Discussion Starter #252
Started working on a new shifter mount today. Rather than mounted to the trans tunnel, I want to get it lower. So I’m mounting it on the trans and at an angle so the bracket will be lower in the back. I fabricated the front bracket today. This is before I finished welding it. It’s just tacked up right now. After welding it out, it’s pretty solid. But i don’t like the back hanging loose. Enough pull on the shifter and it’s gonna contact the driveshaft. So I took a break while I ponder the rear support. I can kinda go back forward with it, but I don’t like how the angle would be and still might be bendable with enough force. Or I can go down, in front of the flange and weld tabs on the cross member that’s bolted to the trans. That is how I’m leaning but I’m gonna sleep on it before I decide for sure.

It sure is nice, after months and months of nagging problems, to be able to go out, start it up and putt down the street.

 

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Discussion Starter #253
Finished up the shifter mount. Welded two tabs to the trans crossmember and the mount brace bolts to those. It’s rock solid, out of the way of the driveshaft flange and the wiring will be easy to keep out of it also. Then I cut out the tunnel for it. Since this pic, I trimmed the cable stay down and gonna patch up the slit I cut in the tunnel. Now it sits slightly lower, the bracing and cable stay will now not need to be bezeled and trimmed around. Should make it look cleaner for the final assembly.

 

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Discussion Starter #254
So, with the changes to my master cylinder and such, my brake pedal was WAY too high and always been too close to the gas pedal, which is as close as comfortable to the tunnel.

I started by making a cardboard shape to the rough shape I wanted the new pedal to be. I cut the wilwood one and made some inserts from steel for both side and threaded all the way through to spread the force put evenly and not concentrated on any spot of the aluminum. I thought about building a whole new pedal but elected to try this first.



Next, I made the pedal extension part and bolted it on.


Next, I cut it in two places and angled it over to where I wanted it. Figured wgeee I wanted the pad and welded a plate on for it. Drilled and tapped, installed pad. I probably will have to change the end to match whatever pedal I choose later on (when I get and install my final gas pedal also). It is now in a much better place, almost identical to my wife’s fusion (which I measured and used for a target) both height and distance from gas pedal.


Much better!

Still have some tweaking to do. One of the bolt hits the tab on the gas pedal. Might have to love it like 1/8”. The other bolt may it the steering column bolt. If so, I’ll redrill and tap in a new spot for that one. Shouldn’t be an issue.

I’ve put a decent force on it so far with no flexing even, so I think itll be just fine.

For anyone wondering, I couldn’t just move the gas pedal out because I am 6’2” and want as much leg room as I can get. I maybe should have kept the dual MC’s when I ditched the power brake system but I’ve cut so much of the pedal box moving stuff around. Oh well, it’s gonna be just perfect when done!
 

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Discussion Starter #255
Counter sunk the gas filler today.
This shows the thickened glass I did awhile back. I cut the main diameter with a 3 7/8” hole saw, not all the way through. Then thinner it like I did awhile back on the cowl access panels. A dremel with a sheet rock depth limiter.


Filler set in the hole. I’ll have to do some detail work around the edge to clean up the fitting.


And a side view to see how it sits nearly flush. Maybe up just a ever so slight touch. But looks a lot cleaner than just sitting up on the body. I’ve searched all over and can’t find a cap that I like better than the ffr one. So I’ll probably take it apart and have the visible parts chromed.
 

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SVTFreak - Apologies, it has been ages since I last replied to your build thread.

You have done lots of good work , including the seats, gas filler and pedals. :cool:

Sorry to read you had technical problems too resulting in extra work on the engine/trans.

But it looks like you are back on track again, so good luck, Paul. :)

PS
... Working around all 3 kids and wife being home so not working all day. Taking this time to also spend time with them...
Good call.

I know my own build took a bit longer when I spent extra time reading Harry Potter to my daughters.

But I wouldn't trade that time for a faster build.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
Thanks Paul! Yes family time is more important I wouldn’t trade it either.

Got the doors back on today drovers is being a little wonky. I’ll have to get on that next week. Ordered the gen 2 hood hinges, Tim Whittaker’s trunk bracing and struts and the pins to set up the select shift for the 6r80 today also. I also need more resin.....

 

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Discussion Starter #259
Been piddling lately. Gen 2 hinges came but was wrong ones. Ffr getting right ones to me. Working on seat mounts but more on that later.
Big update is Tim Whittaker’s trunk lid bars. Got the height set right with bumpers and spacers. He said this was real important. Got it dadgum close.


These pics taken later on but you can see how the bars set in. I used a single acrew into it on each side to hold in place. I got them close to the skin edge and used silica thickener in the vinylesther resin to helpprevent it from dripping out. I made sure and got the holes all good and full of resin and painted it nice and thick on the trunk and the bar. I also cut across the x to allow it to flex some. The hole is there I’m going to form a plug to bind the skins together better later.



Next, I put it on. Since mine has a little too much curve to it, it was high in the middle. Had to get creative in how to hold that down while the resin cures.


got it curing now with heat on it. To help cute and to help the skin relax a little and hopefully take the perfect shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #260
Here we go! Making the select shift of the frpp controls pack for 6r80 work.

I ordered the pins to add from power by the hour. It comes with the placement instructions. I soldered 3 wires colors to the pins and pigtails provided and shrink wrapped them.

Next, unplug the body harness from the ecu. This is the one that goes to the black box with relays and fuses. Looks like this from the plug side

Cut the tape and unwrap. Remove the strain relief cover by pinching the sides and popping out.

If you look at the back of the plug now, and look in the location 22 and 23, you can see the plastic plugs that have to come out. The plug is marked with the PIN numbers at the ends and you have to count over from there. Using a pick, gently pry the white front off the plug.

https://i.imgur.com/riqV98O.jpg
[img]https://i.imgur.com/MntjwdM.jpg
Next, use a pick from the front and push the plastic pins out of the back enough to grab them in the 3 positions noted in instructions. Then pull them on out.

Now, you insert the new pins in the same orientation that all the other pins are. The spring pressure tab should be facing the same way. Push each one in until it clicks. I think it’ll only go in one way. Finished, it looks like this and they should be flush with the front.

Reinstall the white front cover, the black strain relief in the back, running the new wires in the harness. Tape it all back up. You can then decide how to run the 3 new wires to your switches. I went along the body harness (I will put it in the harness when I pull it all out for paint) and will jump out where it goes into the car and run a new loomed leg to the switches. You can use any switches you want. Console mounted momentary buttons or even some sort of paddle on the wheel.

I fired it up and tested and seems it’s working great on the jack stands. One day I’ll go try it out in the street.
 
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