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Discussion Starter #202
I know I said I'd finish up taillights these days but other stuff got in the way. The wifes hybrid car died and that's outta my league. It's under warranty anyeay but I had to go get it and tow it in. And I need to call Tim about the taillights before I move on. So it'll be a bit.

Today I did have time to work on blower/ accessory belt routing. I ordered a gates 36375 pulley. It's about 1" smaller than the 36101's. It still was too tight. So I measured and rotated the alternator out a bit, and cut out an arc from the new idler. This gave it enough room without removing too much meat from the bracket. I'm going to weld up the old hole next time it comes out. Then ran into other problems. The belt wouldn't make it around the pulleys and not rub itself. So I changed the upper pulley to the ribbed one (stolen from the Whipple tensioner) and installed on the upper position. This got the belt away from itself. The reason it is doing this now is cause that pulley from Whipple takes the belt from the main pulley then sends it off a different direction to the tensioner. Since the alternator now takes up that spot, the belt doesn't go back to that bottom corner. The end result is, there is less than desirable belt wrap on the blower pulley. But, to be honest, I'm not sure I'll ever see conditions where that will matter. I'm not done analyzing this belt routing, but this will at least work.

Marking the bracket to move the alternator mounting hole. I didn't want it to intersect the old hole nor the edge.


You can see how I radiused to clear the new smaller pulley. It's close but doesn't touch. I'm going to take a little more off to account for flex when it comes apart next. I also removed some from there the alternator moved over a bit


I'm going to add a gusset to the alternator bracket after I make sure the belt tracks correctly.

The final product.
 

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I'm starting my fiberglass work right now on the doors and the trunk and just read some of your battles with the the fiberglass. I'm finding it very difficult. You had indicated that the doors and trunk did not quite fit for you? It appears on my preliminary fitment of the trunk that I'll have the lower corners popping out a bit because the bend seems to not be curved enough. I don't think any amount of trimming is going to fix this. I saw that a couple people somehow installed braces on the inside to pull it in more. How did the using the tie down strap/leaving out in the sun work for you?

Additionally, you said that your doors did not quite fit well. My passenger side corner is pushed in quite a bit, which I do not see as a problem as I can probably build it up to be aligned with the body. However, my drivers side pops out by about 1/8" in in the front lower corner. Any tricks you learned while installing your doors? Pictures of my drivers side door... Pics of door:
https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipOtZEYAmZ2_rsbTz6vN75sLOL1cNZT8E88chsZP
 

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Discussion Starter #204
I haven't progressed the trunk yet. But I'll.def post how that goes when I move forward. I've got several paths going at once, but this is one and hopefully after a couple summer trips these next two weeks, I can get back on it. Shouldn't take me long to see if that worked. I do want to put it in the sun a day or two more before I try it.

As far as the door, mine did the same. I rotated the door skin on the frame to get that lower corner down and flush. That put back lower corner a bit below flush. Then I used rubber bumpers to push the lower back corner out and flush. As long as the upper portions are all flush, as bumpers won't work as well up there. Hope that helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Managed to get some shop time today!

Started with this: a piece of 5" 90* exhaust pipe.


Made me a pattern of the throttle body out of wood, and started beating. The sides where not moving so I made a jackbolt to push them out a bit.


Once that was close, I fit it up and cut off where I needed it to be pointing the right way. Installed the port for the crankcase vent and installed on the car with the mass air meter.



Here the a most final inlet. I have to find a shorter filter and make a cut and weld to make the bend a little tighter but it'll work.


There was a ground wire for the harness that was where a whole mess of blower drive equipment. So I extended it down and grounded it to an empty boss on the timing cover. Not sure how I didn't get a pic of it loomed amd done.


Called to get a tune written but they won't touch it with the current fuel system. Understandable considering the consequences. But since I have to change the fuel hat out, it won't happen soon unless I decide to pull the body up to get to it. Well see. But they did say it will run like it is, albeit not good. So I guess I'll try they next shop day. Which might be a few weeks lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #206
OK. The summer is coming to an end. I hope to get out there a couple days a week starting Friday I hope. My bum neck determining. Got a pinched nerve old doc gotta decide how to fix.

Anyway, I ripped out my stock fuel system and here is what's going in. Boyds tank, aeromotive dual 340 lph pumps. -8 AN braided nylon supply and -6 return. New lines to the rails to ditch the rubber and push fittings. Should be rocking. After I get all.this in, I will be going back to the tail lights. I think I've figured out how I want to do it and am waiting on some lean to get here.

 

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Discussion Starter #207
Starting the new fuel system. Pumps and dual discharges tied to a single -8.



Everything is in. New sender was easy. Simple. Line it up to middle of tank then adjust arm length.


Here it is in the car. Ran out of time today. But the discharge is ran down to the filter and filter mounted. I'll work on the rest next week! Nothing real out of the ordinary to note. Making up AN fittings. Lots of them. -6 seem to be a pain! Not bolted down yet as I'm waiting to finish vent and wiring.




The stock wire will not be enough. They say the pumps need 26 amps total at 40 psi. So slightly less at 55 psi. Either way, my wire isn't enough. Im going to build a relay box with a 10 gauge feed (they recommend) and use the coyote fuel wire to trip the relay on.
 

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OK. The summer is coming to an end. I hope to get out there a couple days a week starting Friday I hope. My bum neck determining. Got a pinched nerve old doc gotta decide how to fix.

Anyway, I ripped out my stock fuel system and here is what's going in. Boyds tank, aeromotive dual 340 lph pumps. -8 AN braided nylon supply and -6 return. New lines to the rails to ditch the rubber and push fittings. Should be rocking. After I get all.this in, I will be going back to the tail lights. I think I've figured out how I want to do it and am waiting on some lean to get here.

Get your neck fixed if they can do it. I had a quadruple fusion in 2017. The best decision I ever made. Most days are totally pain free and I was back at work in 3 weeks. I had gone months without sleeping. It did slow the build down some. Mostly due to having to get the wife to let me back in the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Oh I plan on getting it done. Waiting on next step now. I don't have much pain, mostly just uncomfortable. But it's def progressing.

Worked on fuel system more. Had to stop today cause my 2.5 year old caught a little staph and is home. Poor baby.

Big Ole regulator. -8 inlet and outlet, -6 return. The outlet then splits to 2 -6's, one to the back of each fuel rail.


Heres the new tank in. The pump has dual -6 outlets, so I tied them together for a single -8 supply.


Removed all the factory barb fittings and the banjo fitting supply (which is a single -6 anyway). Installed the -6 o ring fittings on each end of the rails.


The front is now just a crossover. No longer has the supply fitting. Goes down low to clear the future coolant lines. The heater crossover is temporary. Those will go to the ac/heat on final build.


Each rail gets its own -6 supply from the y on the regulator outlet.


I'm missing 2 -6 straight ends to tie up this part. To connect each hose for the rails to the y. Got them ordered and some -4 hose and npt fittings for the manifold reference to the regulator. Got them ordered. Also gonna change one end on the filter to tidy things up a bit.

Also went ahead and finally mounted my prototype carbon/moisture filter.
 

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On my Magnuson setup I ran a fused lead via a relay directly from the battery, my battery is located in the trunk. This eliminates any voltage drop from long leads coming from the front of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #211
On my Magnuson setup I ran a fused lead via a relay directly from the battery, my battery is located in the trunk. This eliminates any voltage drop from long leads coming from the front of the car.
For what, the power? I'll prolly run a separate 10 awg for it, and use the computer lead to switch a relay. Throw a 30 Amp fuse in it then. Waiting on word from Ford. The relay and fuse in the control panel is 40 Amp but the fuel pump wire isn't 10 awg. Looks to be 14.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
yes. power for the fuel pump.
Thought so. Yes, my battery is in the back also. I think I'm going to build me a little project box with a 10 awg input with a 30a fuse. Then use a relay inside and use the computer power to trip it on and a 10 awg wire to the fuel pumps. That way I know the wire and supporting gear is big enough and won't melt.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.


Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.


Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Taillight content!

As yall may know, I am using hagan 9" teardrop flush mounts. But they are really designed for steel. So it took some thinking how to make them work in glass. I talked to a few more knowledgeable and experienced builders before trying a blend of their advice. Mr Tim provided a ton of guidance.

First thing I did (after cutting the holes, see previous post for that) was figure where the box would go and glue in the studs for that. I used a Devon product that we use at work that's works rally well for applications like this. I roughed up thr plates and smeared it in good, applied it while the box was located and moved it around a bit to get good adherence. Then, since the box would go straight in and out on the bottom due to wheel well, I slotted the bottom slot to the end and now it goes down from the top, then goes on top stud and bolts in.






Next, the big issue I had was the red lens part wasn't thick enough to go through the glass. So I trimmed the lens to have a lip all the way around then I thinned the body around the cutout so the lens sat down in it. This allowed the red lens do stick up just enough.




Next, I cut a piece of lexan just slightly larger than the box. The idea is the lexan, then the box is installed, will push the lens and hold it tight


Once all bolted in, it looks like this!



It sits up just enough that I think when I do my paint, it'll be very close and require very little sanding and fitting. Then the cut and buff will make it exact. I'm doing it then because I don't want it flush now then recessed once the paint thickness is there. The tip top and very bottom, I think I'm gonna also add a dab of the epoxy putty on final assembly, just to add a little extra support since those spots are rhe farthest from the box edges. Then it'll be easily ground out right at the edge should I need to remove the lens ever.

Anyway, the concept worked! Just FYI, the other plan, which Mr Tim used, was to add another layer of the red and use the glue that hagan uses and not recess the lens. If you want an idea of another path that would work also.

Now, I'll be fixing the edges in a few spots I got too aggressive and took too much off, then moving on to drivers side. Once I get them wired up and working, I'll post some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Well, that didn't take long at all. Edges fixed up, all installed and wired up. They work great!
Off


Running lights


Brake lights


They go bright/dim or bright/off for blinkers. Exactly like the ffr lights. They come with a bright/dim module you add if needed. I thought about adding a short led strip at bottom for turn signal but I think this will work just fine. I am very pleased. (They look a little less bright than the photo on driving lights and actually a little more bright in brakes. Maybe the photo angle)
 

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Boy what a PIA huh? I had to do the same thing and make up a convoluted elbow out of steel to make the bends as no hose is going to make those sharp of turn - pre formed or not. And as an added bonus I already had the deck mounted filler with the original tank, so moving the filler to accommodate the Boyd tank wasn't a very desirable option.

Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.


Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.


Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Yep. If id have left it further up, a simple 90* would have done it. But since I moved it closer to the edge of the car, it now has two angles.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Finished up the drivers side taillight today. Here is the whole back end.
Off


Running


I had no one to press brake for me today so that's all you get lol. I am very please with how they came out but I may add a secomd strip to each to make them overall brighter. Once it's mobile again, I'll take it out on the street at night and see how they look.

Now to mod my blower inlet a touch then move on to trying to finish up body work.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Body work!

Front lower cone in place. Pain in the butt. Think it went in and out 30 times. I haven't decided final fastener yet. Either countersunk stainless or stainless rivets.


SON OF A B.....


Yep. Guess while upside down and on creeper, I drilled wrong place and too deep. Guess I need an aluminum welder before chrome time.

Used grommets to support hood sides. This will both set the gap and be bumpers for installation and removal. I was going to run the bolts through them but now I think I'd rather not have nuts so considering my options here. I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them. Research time.


Hood side in place. Little fitting left and fasteners. Have to move my front brake like somewhere else.
Looking at this is like looking at a pic with a naked woman. Don't focus so much on the blower that you miss the reason I posted it. Or, just revel in the beauty of a twin screw. I dont blame you lol.


I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.
 
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