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Discussion Starter #181
Good progress today but no pictures. I am doing the passenger side windows. Once I get it done and to the driver side, I'll document the steps and post. I have the Collins designed frame fitting and have the motor almost mounted. The holes to mount it are a pain to drill and I suggest doing it before you assemble the doors. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have that done and the glass in and maybe some movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
OK. Started on drivers side today so will dcomument in more detail the steps to put in Collins window frames. And to let you guys see f I'm screwing up.

Step one. Install the window striping. You can see how far back I cut the flange to allow more viewing area out of the side windows.


Now just like ffr says, mark where the edge meets the door. This is where the glass should fall.


Now we mark where the front and rear edge of the glass will be when centered in the opening. I used the glass. Center it up and mark the ends.



Now we measure the frame to figure the opening. You need 1/2" on the outside from center and 3/8" on inside


Now well draw the lines. Just like ffr says but using the above measurements. Then draw the ends. The frame is 1/2" longer than the window. So square the ends of the box you drew 1/4" longrr on each end.



Cut it out. I used an air saw. However. I found my top was not glued together well at all. So I'll fix it later today.



Now we need to place the motor. I'll sand the edges and clean up the slot and pick up on fitting it after my epoxy cures. Maybe tomorrow.

The book says to cut the track and it's too short then for most people. So I measured,at the center of the slot, from the bottom of the lower door steel arm to the bottom of the slot for the window and cut the track this. It was 16 15/16th for me. Then I measured from the top of the mounting bracket up the track and cut.


Install motor and drill and bolt up holes. I centered it to the window slot. Missing a bolt still cause I can't get it drilled right while Installee. I'll drill the last one later


After the motor is in, you can get the windows basic position set by loosening the bolts and moving the bracket in/out/twist to line the window plate up to the slot when looking down. I have it close but not perfect in this photo. I'll line it up better once the frame is in


To be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Back at it today for a little bit.

The frame sets into the slot after some sanding and filing. Here it is sitting on the nuts at each end. Mark the nuts locations and take a little material out so they’ll slide through. I removed the bottom brace of the frame and reinstalled it inside the door so as to not cut the a slot too large. I filed out cut outs for the nuts and the rivets that hold the glass wiper in



Set down in place. You notice the center isn’t touching. I’ll pull that down later with some pretty little screws through the angle to tie the door tops to the frame and make it all stiffer.


Install the glass holder. I trimmed the bolts so they won’t hang up on the bottom brace of the frame when lowered.


Slide the glass in and let it kinda line the frame up to its travel. I’ll fine tune the position if all a little later. When all mounts in place.


Fabricated the mount at the front. Had to add a piece to reach the door frame over what mr Collins designed. The passenger side didn’t need it but this side did.


Had to stop to go somewhere so will pick up tomorrow on making the rear mount.

Side note, I also trimmed the length of the bolts that hold the bottom brace on so they don’t hit the outer door skin.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Ok. Got the rear mount done for the Collins frame. Didn’t need to be this complicated but i wanted the bolt through to the jamb to be in same place on both sides.



Run the track down to the bottom and Install the glass and run The glass up and down by hand a few times with the frame mounts loose. This aligns the track to the window. Tighten the mounts. Then bring the track up to about halfway. Push the glass down to it. It probably will not line up with the glass holder. Loosen the motor and track mount bolts and align the window holder to the bottom of the window. I actually removed the track bracket and did the motor then redrilled the track bracket. Before and after.



Now run the window up using the motor and get it to its highest point. Might require lowering and raising again using quick taps of the ground. It should be very close to right. (I’ve got to move my track slightly to get it to sit against the rubber at the top. I will probably remove the bottom brace of the Collins track after the mounts are tight on final assembly to get the room I’ll need to get it flush to rubber. It’s very close here)


At this point, I decided since i have to have the passenger side trimmed to fit, I’m going to have this side trimmed to be a better fit also. I marked the glass with tape to bring to glass shop.

While it’s in upper position, mark the glass and track for the holder install and stops install. Run to the bottom and mark for bottom stops install per instructions. Here is marked for the holder. There are slots so it just has to be close.



Alright. Now it all comes completely apart. After I get to the glass shop, maybe after Christmas next week, I’ll get back on it for stops installation and final assembly and we’ll walk through that. I’m cautiously optimistic at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I called FFR and sent them some pics. They told me to try to fit the front windshield in so I did. Sure enough, that lower passenger corner didn't fit right. It appears my top is pulled in in that lower corner causing my problem. They suggested redrilling the mounting holes, heating the top st that corner and pulling it forward to make the fit and shape correct, using windshield fitment as a guide and that will give the right clearance for the windows. I'm going to take a little break and replace the fireplace for my wife, get her reading nook built, to keep her happy she keeps being OK with me building cars. Lol. So, I'll be back on this in a couple weeks or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
While I wait to hear back from ffr about my cracked hard top, I decided to fit up the roadster windshield. Easy peasy. It seems my rear body may be tweaked a tiny bit but I got the measurements real close to what ffr says. It’s tough to get things to look right and measure right with these out of kilter bodies.

 

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Discussion Starter #187
Better pic.



Dave B at ffr contacted me yesterday. The top is def out of whack at that front corner. So they offered me a new top. But over the weekend, I did some soul searching. This project started as a roadster and occasional top use car. But, long story short, after seeing how tough that top is to get off and on, it became a full time coupe. This has caused me to really rethink the whole top delimma. So, after some talking with Dave, they offered store credit on the top to use towards a soft top. That was very very generous of them. I say again, all my dealings with ffr have been top notch. Their customer service has been great with me.

So now, I have some time to decide, I will either be going soft top or Dan Ruth’s hard top. I see things i like about both and advantages to both. At the moment, I feel that the soft top is the way to go for what I want to do (with side curtains) but I wanna think it through. Meanwhile, the windshield is mounted and I think I’ll start finding places to mount the intercooler reservoir and LTR while I save a few bucks for the top.

Oh, and I’m squeezing a bathroom remodel and expansion in with the car for the next few months lol.
 

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Hard Top

I am still waiting on my new Body. I have received the Hard Top from Dan Ruth. I must say that I was overly impressed with the quality of the product. Very well constructed. The Gelcoat finish looks like a newly painted Top. I bought Dan's Top and 4-Latch Attachment. You leave the Windshield on, and you have 2-Fasteners in the Front and 2 in the Rear. Looks much easier to me. Please be advised, I HAVE NOT YET INSTALLED IT. But I am impressed with the workmanship.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Thanks rotorhead. Everyone I’ve talked to that has anything from Mr Dan just loves the quality. I have no doubt he makes a super product. And he even says the soft top is a great product. I just have to decide what fits my desire best. And that’s the hard part lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
After I glassed in the door tops a bit (still have to layer some cloth and get it right, just got the parts I cut out in place with some flocking), I started working on supercharger support gear. I started with the low temp cooler and after an hour or so, I come to the conclusion that the mustang one won’t fit. I’ve already found a couple alternatives that will fit where I’m thinking I want it (behind the axle on the trunk panel that drops down). So I moved on to the resevoir. I thought it would be the hard one, but after trying a couple spots, it ended up here. I still have to make the top support mount (the rusty plate for it is bolted to the tank). But it’s clear of the driveshaft and moving suspension parts. I’ll post the remainder of the mount next week once it’s finished. It hangs about 1/4-1/2” lower than the frame but I think it’ll be ok consider its plastic, flexes some and the radius edge should help it should it contact anything. Even if it does, even if it causes a puncture, this fluid system isn’t required. I can still drive it home.

 

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Discussion Starter #193
Good place kamp. My current one is way too big for that, and was hoping to keep a good sized one. The stock mustang one is 24x12x4” with fans. I found a 26x7x2 and some 70 fans that might work. I’m going to have to check that space out cause I like that idea better than behind the axle. Thanks.

What blower setup and motor you running?

My ac condenser is normal place in front of the radiator.
 

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I built an after market 490 cu in LS motor for another car which never materialized so decided to build the 33 to put the motor in. Then stumbled on a used late style Magnusson SC and had to have it! I am running a Whipple on my other car so was familiar with SCs.

The down side of where I put my cooler is its noisy when it ramps up. I am using a Holley ECM so can turn it off at different temps but there is no speed modulation. I have a spare GM PWM fan controller so might use it to give me variable speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
I think I'm back in bidness, yall! The major bathroom remodel is done and my soft top came in. So back on the hot rod. Short term, I need to get the top fit, doors finished and blower on and tune in so I can do the hood. That and the trunk then it's time for blowing up for paint I think.

Started today by adding the final (I hope) glass to fill in the door tops. After I sand this smooth, hopefully this is done.


Then I started on the top. Got the clevises in, and since it didn't have different colored washers like the instructions say, I stamped the drivers one with a D. Got the rear belt on. I have to mount the front bow now but it has material attached and I'd rather not work with that around the fresh glass (it'll be a few hours before it cures). So gonna take a break for the day maybe. Tomorrow I'll try to sand the door tops and maybe mount top more.


 

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Discussion Starter #196
I couldn't leave it alone. Had to see what the top looks like. Threw some freezer paper over the wet glass and moved on. I love it! So glad I went this route now.


 

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Discussion Starter #197
Got the side curtains fit today. Then went on to final align the doors and get the gaps right. That was pretty easy since it has been done before. Then moved on to the door tops. Typical ffr, they don't line up to all points. So I aligned the belt line and will fill the top up to match the dash and rear. I will even be able to leave some curve in it since not using windows and give it a slightly different look. First layer of filler in just to smooth out the glass. Then I'll build up to match.





The rear of that door needs to come out a touch. That will be easier to do when taking it apart for paint. Won't be bad to get that right. The drivers side fits just as good but the edges need some attention since ffr got a little happy with the cutter on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #198 (Edited)
Today, now that the doors are lined up on the body molding line, I was able to finish making the tops line up to the body. I love my ffr's, and they've been great to deal with. But if they ever figure out how to glue a door together and it actually meet more than one reference point, they'll be on target! Neither of mine lined up to the body top once aligned to molding. And one had a serious low spot from not being glued properly. So I fixed some of it when I glasses the window slot back up and built up some front and rear, then filler finished off the slope to make them match the door tops. Since I am no longer am using power windows, the door tops need not be flat. It's hard to see in photos, but actually gives the door a nice shape rather than a long flat section between two curved body panels. I also put straps on the trunk lid and tossed it out in the sun. Hopefully, that'll pull it in and make the lower corners fit better. The last photo is a little teaser of what's coming soon. Gotta get it in place to get the hood on and done.



 

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Discussion Starter #199
What is the definition of overkill?

Here we go!

Got it all apart. Cleaned up, ready to toss some belt driven intake on. Now, this step is not to get it running, but to continue body work. I've got a few things more I need before I can get it running again with the blower. But, seeing it on there just tickles me.


Have to take the stepper motor out of the factory throttle body, and it's gear and install in the crusher big oval one from Whipple. The factory cover is used also.



Lower intake goes in now with fuel rails, id1000's, and front and rear crossovers. The crossover on driver side rubs the firewall pretty good. I'll remake it with -AN fitting and it'll get away and leave plenty clearance when I redo the fuel system.


Next step is the drive pulley plate. It shares one mounting point with the alternator. I assembled it all, and measured the difference and cut that out of the spacer for the alternator there. Now the bolt goes through the Alt bracket, through the spacer, through the blower idler bracket, through its spacer then into the timing cover. I had to cut 2.125 off of it.


As you can see, it looks like the pulleys line up. The photo doesn't do it justice. Any off one way or the other and it looks crooked. But a string line looks to be all straight. If it starts tossing belts, this will be the first place I look.


The alternator pulley rides real close to the blower idler bracket. That's OK, unless I have to get the belt through there. I'll cut that area off after I make sure it all works.


I still have to sort out belt routing. I have a couple options. The easy option is to route it on the outside of the outermost alt bolt but that won't leave much wrap on the alternator. If rather go in and around another idler but the top bolt is in the way. I am looking for a 36101 style pulley that is smaller diameter and that will be the fix it I can track something down. But, here is the current look. Its a 3.4L Whipple (twin screw) stg 2 kit. Make 675 whp on my '15 Mustang, very conservative tune. And still drove like a dream. Should still be a very reliable hot rod.



I don't think the hood is gonna clear, even removing all but outer layer. I'll figure out something. I wanna keep it as sleek as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
While taking a break from blower stuff while I search for a pulley, started on the hagan 9" flush mount tear drop taillights.

First, I layer out the place I wanted them. I used the metal they sent as my pattern. I wanted to bend it to fit the car. In order to insure that the opening didn't move, I measured a couple places and checked before and after.


I used those as a guide to cut the holes (which I didn't get a photo of completed for some reason)

Then, I formed the lenses. I trimmed a pice of cardboard to fit the curve inside and transferred to a block. Then I clamped the lens and slowly heated and flexed it till it fit. Heated a bit more then let it cool while clamped in place. Didn't get any pics of that either for some reason.



I will add that initially I clamped as you see above but ended up having to clamp the red part to get it to form correctly. A little square of card stock protected the red lens.

Using the same cardboard guide, I trimmed the boxes to fit the curve.


So now it sits with the holes cut, lenses formed and boxes trimmed. But the lenses aren't thick enough and the clear part is stopping then from getting down in the right place. So, before I mess Up, I stopped to think a bit. I may thin the glass around the openings and trim the clear part to fit into the thinned area allowing the red lens to stick high and be sanded to fit. The lens will glue into the body basically. I'm gonna think that over a bit before I go any farther.
 
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