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El Conquestador
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1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted another set of eyes to look at my suspension set-up before I torque down the rear. New at this, and want to make sure everything is correct before I move on.














Thanks,
 

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65 FANGS
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522 Posts
Looks like mine. do you have bolt in rear end of drivers side 4" frame tube? help hold 3 link bracing to frame!! could not see in the photos. also the rear control arms: upper holes less than 400hp, lower holes for over 400hp from what I have read on forum.
 

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El Conquestador
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1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mountian Bob,

Yep, upper holes, less than 400 HP. I didn't include the drivers side. I have all of the 3-link pieces put together, is there something I missed, the panhard bar is mounted to the frame on the drivers side.
 

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65 FANGS
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522 Posts
I will try to explain as told by ffr. at the rear end of the drivers side 4" frame tube there is a little tube sticking out. drill through the end of this little tube towards the front. use the bolt (looks like the one that attaches the banana bracket to the differential, hex head, black 2"long). there is a hole in the bottom of the 4" tube to reach into and add nut to bolt. helps hold 3 link to chassis.
 

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El Conquestador
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1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I still need to do that!!! Thanks, I would have missed it.
 

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1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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25,974 Posts
I think I'm running my LCA in the bottom holes with less than 400hp as was the order of the day 2 years ago. Anyone know what's the purpose of the two holes? Thanks for the tip on drilling the main tube. I have not heard of that before.

Greg
 

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Senior Member
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4,342 Posts
I've never heard of this before either. Are you talking about the small tube seen at the lower right of this pic. below the weld of the forward leg of the panhard bracket? How does that help the 3 link?

 

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Senior Member
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2,863 Posts
YEA me too ???
not to high jack this thread but ?

FROM MOUNTAIN MAN: will try to explain as told by ffr. at the rear end of the drivers side 4" frame tube there is a little tube sticking out. drill through the end of this little tube towards the front. use the bolt (looks like the one that attaches the banana bracket to the differential, hex head, black 2"long). there is a hole in the bottom of the 4" tube to reach into and add nut to bolt. helps hold 3 link to chassis.
did i miss this ,
I have 3 link and never put in this bolt, does someone have a good pic?? cant seem to figure this one out, Thanks herb
 

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1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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25,974 Posts
Jim,

Great photo. That little tube is no where near the panhard bar. I always wondered why they put it there...

Herb,
I love the work you did for me on the leather covered panels. Thanks!

Greg
 

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El Conquestador
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1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I still could use a little more clarification also. Does anyone have a pic?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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20 Posts
As Joe from FFR explained to me, the plate that covers the rear of the 4" round tube on the frame is only ~1/8" thick. There should be one extra bolt/nut/washer remaining after the entire 3-link install. By drilling through this "bung" AND the vertical 2x4 member on the frame, and fastening the bolt through the hole you drilled, you've coupled the diagonal 3-link member to the vertical 2x4 on the frame.

I can try to post a pic later, but it really is as simple as drilling a hole through the bung, and attaching a bolt through the hole. The only reason I found out is because I called FFR to ask about the leftover fastener!!

Kevan
 

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Senior Member
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Holy manual omission, Batman!

Thanks Kevan for the clarification.
 

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Premium Member
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16,561 Posts
Kevan,
Are you sure he was referring to the factory installation of the 3-link or the retrofit kit. The factory installation of the kit includes welding the forward leg to the end of the 4" tube and I would not think the bolt is required. On the retrofit kit it would be installed as you say (drilled with a bolt) as well as using bolts for the upper mounts but this is in lieu of welding.

If you look at the picture Jim posted you can clearly see how the leg is welded (pretty substantial weld).

Cheers, Rod
 

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just another builder
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8,238 Posts
the 3 link intructions i got were pretty clear about drilling and bolting to the rear of the 4" for the bar mount...my mkII didn't have a bung, you just located and drilled the hole, insert a bolt and a big washer behind it...i'm not sure how the bung adds strength, but certialy clears up the location
 

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El Conquestador
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1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
does anyone have a picture of the bolted connection? My instructions don't mention this, and say to weld if racing. I have a new MKIII that was delivered in Oct. I do not plan on welding mine, will this be a problem?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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20 Posts
Rod, I've got the factory install. It is welded substantially, but only to the 4" disc on the end of the main frame rail. Joe told me this disc is very thin. By adding this fastener, you are coupling the weldment to the vertical 2x4 (which extends behind the 4" disc) which will give structure and support that the thin 4" dia disc cannot.

Kevan
 

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just another builder
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8,238 Posts
Craig,
the reference to welding is for the banana bracket on the axle and not the mount to the frame which is what I am referring to, a lot of depends on the vintage of the kit and if the 3 link is retro or factory, ...so in your case no problem unless you launch big hp with sticky tires...as an alternative to welding the banana you can get some supports from mapstone
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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434 Posts
I ordered my MK II with the 3 link and I believe it is the same as the retrofit 3 link in regards to this question. Here are a few pictures. As a note I installed the bolt opposite of most (head inside the 2x3).


 

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Premium Member
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18,134 Posts
Have you checked bump steer yet?
 
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