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I agree that what you have done looks better- you don't even need that long of a bolt and the spacer hanging off the end.

But, I wonder if FFR did what they did in order to keep the rod end in the middle of it's movement range- assuming that you took the picture with the car resting on the wheels/tires on the ground. And is your picture at full-droop or with the car resting on the ground?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Full droop. And I agree about the extra bolt I just don't currently have one that exactly fits. The "spacer" is just acting as a long washer. It's good to have a washer by the Zeus fitting (is that how it's spelled?) to allow for full range of motion without binding.

I showed my setup to a guy who builds lots of racing suspension setups (ignite performance in denver) and he likes my new configuration much better than the original setup. He also says that the direction of forces should work perfectly and not induce any adverse lateral motion in the bar. The slight angle on the connecting king should be no problem.

We will know soon enough as this is a track build so the forces will be way more than a street build would likely face. I'll be monitoring the setup for play and or wear. Stay tuned!!
 

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Those panels look great. I like the look of the dark panels with the white chassis.

-Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
I tried to put silicone all the places where aluminum panels touch metal.



I think the rivets look pretty cool on those dark panels. Also I put rivnuts (removable) with some thin closed cell foam (like a gasket?) over my brake pedal assembly to make access easier for doing brake bias adjustments. This was my first time using them but they go in pretty easily you just have to be really careful not to cross thread them.
 

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nice post, sum questions

I tried to put silicone all the places where aluminum panels touch metal.



I think the rivets look pretty cool on those dark panels. Also I put rivnuts (removable) with some thin closed cell foam (like a gasket?) over my brake pedal assembly to make access easier for doing brake bias adjustments. This was my first time using them but they go in pretty easily you just have to be really careful not to cross thread them.
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
 

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I just drilled and taped the frame rails for 10-32 stainless socket head cap screws. Not as good as rivnuts but it works. You only get 3 or 4 threads but it is lots to hold the aluminum on.
David W
 

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Discussion Starter #71
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
The "gasket" is closed cell self foam that I cut all around the panel, mostly for rattleproofing. Waterproof is not a huge concern as all this is tucked well under the hood. Of greater concern I think is heat-proofing which is my next task. Ill be putting heat shields all around the exhaust manifold and tranny areas of the footbox.

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/heat-shield-and-thermal-barriers/hp-sticky-shield

I"ll be ceramic coating the headers and exhaust to push most of the heat out the exhaust tips. Hopefully this setup will keep my feet cool. If not, I'll wrap the headers as a last resort.

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/exhaust-and-header-wrap/inferno-header-wrap
 

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Discussion Starter #72
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
The Willwood pedal box I"m using has a mechanical bias bar style setup (hence the removable Rivnuted access panel.) Also, I'm running Willwood 14 inch rotors up front and (The FFR) 12.88s in the back to get me closer to proper bias right off the bat. I think this should be a better rotor setup for the enduro-racing events I have in mind. (unfortunately for my non track days, the 18 inch Halibrand replicas don't fit around my front caliper without a spacer...)
 

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Discussion Starter #74
E-Brake is in.

FFR sent me two brake kits so I used parts from both to make the brake a bit sturdier (I used a second connector to have one on both sides of the cam. That also allowed me to double pin and better capture the ratchet cam.



Here are some other shots and how I routed the cables. (I'll have to give the routing some more thought.)




 

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I just drilled and taped the frame rails for 10-32 stainless socket head cap screws. Not as good as rivnuts but it works. You only get 3 or 4 threads but it is lots to hold the aluminum on.
David W
Drilling and tapping, particularly with a combination drill & tap should work fine, at least with 1/8" wall thickness. A typical 10-32 nut is only 1/8" thick and the threads are chamfered on both sides, so 1-2 turns of engagement is lost. If the tubes are only 1/16" thick, then there's far less thread, but certainly enough to hold a panel in place.

I have a lot of aluminum upholstery panels on my car. The brackets that hold them are all 1/8" thick aluminum that were match drilled and tapped 10-32. I know that I have a couple of 1/16" thick brackets that have caused no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Ford performance REP just tol me "no way the A52xs will be ready for sales in June. We're shooting for sometime this year"


Ummmmmm..... crap. I had it on pretty good authority that it was going to be June.
 

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Little surprised that after the entire overhaul of the car they finally put the hand brake on the tunnel, but still put it on the wrong side!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Little surprised that after the entire overhaul of the car they finally put the hand brake on the tunnel, but still put it on the wrong side!



John


It does seem to be in an odd place.

More trouble than it's worth to me to move it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Just ordered 4 rolls of this for the firewall and tranny tunnel.



Hopefully that will keep my feet nice and uncooked.
 
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