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Discussion Starter #21
Stewart missed my shipment today. Will pick up next week. I expect a delivery at very end of the month!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Stewart delivery (and rollup doors install) set for this friday!!

Still no definitive word on my a52xs motor from ford performance... (its the last piece of the build i haven't sourced)
 

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Congratulations on getting all set-up!

That car is just all kinds of sexy, and I know it is going to be a blast to build.

I also see that your car has been Lab tested!

Good luck as you get started, and I look forward to following along.

Regards,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Surfdog57's build journal.

Not that it matters but I just found my Serial number:
F51000012DR

I think that means I'm Gen 3 coupe number 12?? Maybe I'm gen 3 coupe R type number 12. Hard to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Minor issues are popping up during unpack/ inventory phase.

The most worrisome is some pretty good dings and cracks in the bodywork. There is a pretty good divot on my rear hatch corner and a fairy serious manufacturer defect on both side window openings.

I think Stewart will cover any repair (probably not necessary as it will be sorted when I prep for prime and paint) on the tail, but the window issue is a bit more serious. Tony at Fac 5 put a note in my "file" that they will cover the cost to repair the windows. I don't know what that will entail yet but I do know after several attempts to make beautiful repairs on surfboards that resin work is not one of my great strengths!!

I'm sure I can find somebody up here who can help me sort out the fix.




BTW Tony at fac 5 was very helpful and offered to send out a new body if needed. I'm sure I can figure out a way to fix it up though.
 

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Just be sure the repair guy uses vinylester resin not polyester. I would just get some 3M HSRF and fill from above and clamp it closed,let harden then grind out a little v groove where the crack is and fill that from below. use some tape over the filler to hold it in, when it hardens pull the tape, sand and fill with rage till its smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Just be sure the repair guy uses vinylester resin not polyester. I would just get some 3M HSRF and fill from above and clamp it closed,let harden then grind out a little v groove where the crack is and fill that from below. use some tape over the filler to hold it in, when it hardens pull the tape, sand and fill with rage till its smooth.
Thanks! I haven't done much body work but understand fiberglass repair is not too bad... There are a few other dings around the body possibly from shipping i need to patch as well.

I was considering giving my body to a shop to fix this stuff up when I send it out for prime and paint. It will probably wait until I have wired in and fit all the lights and latches etc. I'm still a long way out on that stuff

Ill start looking at youtube to try and get up to speed. Maybe I'll try my hand at this repair just for kicks before I farm it out.

"fill with rage?????" Was that a typo, or is rage a type of filler. (I read it as a negative emotion caused by doing repairs while sanding... lol)

edit: I just looked up Rage body filler... another stupid question self answered...
 

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Surfdog57, Yes Rage gold to be specific, check out the bodywork forums. BTW I've got a Yellow Lab too👍
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Surfdog57's build journal.

Some updates on the build. I found a few bits missing from my delivery and they are on the way: front spindles and center hubs. Also some Koni snap rings.

Missing those parts I went on to the rear IRS assembly (note there are no instructions for this so it took awhile to sort out what goes where... I'm just a YouTube mechanic so need a little extra help figuring this stuff out)

The front and fear went together pretty well. At first, though I had to mill out my forward diff mounts a bit. Just a few thousands with a Dremel to get the hardware in the holes.



Used cargo straps and floor jack to put in the diff



So easy a child can do it!!!



The real head scratcher this week was the rear spindle.

I't didn't fit and I spent two days trying to figure out what I did wrong





It turns out I just didn't know that the spindle needed to be pretty heavily modified by chopping off the upper control arm mount and drilling out a new one







So there you go. Tony from FFR emailed me what needed done and has sent the manual for a mk4 roadster which will help with further snafus maybe until the gen 3 manual comes out in a few months. (I hope to be well along by then)

I hope to be suspension complete when my spindles come in a few days. Until then I'll work on steering and brake buildup. (Well also finishing up the rear IRS.)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Surfdog57's build journal.

Well, I Hit a few snags finishing up the rear end:



I forgot to lock-tight the rotors so had to tear them down and build them up again. Actually I didn't mind, as my safety wire job was much better the second time. I don't want to talk about the broken rotor bolt, suffice it to say my drill press saved the day again!



Today's lesson, Never use an impact gun to speed up a process. Its all about the journey...



Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

 

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Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

Don't you hate it when you create more work for yourself!!

The brakes do look good!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)


Steering rack and column is on! Next step .., pedal box!!

I used the Lower steering rack mounting points to help the column geometry.

BTW I initially used the lower shock tower mounts to raise ride height for initial clearance testing. I'll probably lower them once I hit the track.

I notice that my Koni coil overs are mounted upside down from the way other guys are doing it.

I guess I'll flip them over (to make the adjustment ring easier to access??). That seems odd, but if it's good enough for Tony at FFR its good enough for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Having just installed the front willwood brakes here are a few notes

1.they are the best brakes you can get for a 12 inch rotor (fits a 17 inch wheel)

However... if you plan to change your front pads often (as I do) do not get these rotors. The pad change process is terrible. (The backs are fine). If you are going to track your coupe get 14 inch rotors (require a 18 inch rim) and use a caliper that you can change the pads on without having to remove the entire caliper. (i.e. just slide them out the front)



Brake changes are going to be time consuming and frustrating on this caliper. Also I've already ordered some pin retaining spring clips as these one are placed maddeningly around back and just can't wait to jump off the pliers and go for a little fly. (This happened assembling them ON THE BENCH. I expect it will be much worse at the track. (Well the finding the clip part anyway)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Jay at FFR just confirmed that I have the wrong gauge set (white gauges). He is helpful sending out the proper gauges for my build.

Here's a few the ones I have on hand


The ones coming are black, but more critically the speedo goes to 180 (120 is a bit low for my build) and the tack to 8k. (Instead of a too low 7k)

My self imposed redline will be 7800rpm on my dry sumped a52xs motor (Aviaid dry sump)

I also have begun a preorder on the front and rear aero they used in the snap on build. I think the downforce in the rear will really help get power down on my light build and the front aero should help keep the from planted instead of "floaty" at speed.

The rear spoiler is off the GTM with custom mounts I'll weld on myself.

Should come out about like this




I'm leaving off the upper dive planes as I suspect they will cause stress issues on my removable nose aero.
 

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Just a quick thought, I believe you have stock mufflers on the car and for the motor and the use you're going to have for the car, you're going to want to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. I did and I probably gained 50 horsepower on a 392 Ford Motorsport crate motor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Just a quick thought, I believe you have stock mufflers on the car and for the motor and the use you're going to have for the car, you're going to want to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. I did and I probably gained 50 horsepower on a 392 Ford Motorsport crate motor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have my exhaust manifolds but the FFR gang is still putting together my exhaust for the a52xs. They will be Dual side pipes. I think is a basic dual glass pack style exhaust. Hopefully they do the math and tune the length properly. (I am confident they will). It will probably be difficult to find aftermarket side pipes to fit. (I of course could be totally wrong about that though)
 
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