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Discussion Starter #361 (Edited)
Looks great! Will you keep the original spoiler on the car when racing with the big spoiler on?

Or does that interfere with the aero?



Thanks,



John


Track configuration vs street.


In other words, street trim has no added aero bits or aero, just brake ducting NACA ducts on lower lip up front and the street spoiler installed out back.

On the rear, the street spoiler will come off when using the big wing, as per the analysis in this wind tunnel data summary. (It adds a bit more downforce to run both but at a big drag penalty)

http://www.johngeorgeracing.com/wordpress/2017/04/11/gen-3-type-65-coupe-r-aero-testing-report/

This is why I went to the trouble of using cam-lock fasteners on the “street spoiler”.

It comes on and off pretty quickly and easily.

I’m running what they call a “stage 2” aero package. GT300 wing and no down planes on the nose.

TBD is if I will need to up my spring rates with aero installed. (I assume that I will)
 

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Discussion Starter #362 (Edited)
Rear wheelwell back aluminum was moving around a bit and rubbing tire some.

I didn’t want to put pop rivets through the body so used some panel bond to mount up a few support brackets. If it breaks loose from vibration or whatever, (unlikely) I can always pop a rivet through later.

Edit: one of the bonds didn’t hold (you guessed it, the first one due to poor panel bond mixing through the stupid mix tip. Make sure to discard first oz or so that comes through those tips as it is not well mixed...)

This will also serve to anchor those dangly body ends down there from shaking around.





That should definitely do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #364
Changed out break in oil. 12quarts

Process is a bit different than I’m used to because dry sumped


 

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Great idea on the brackets with the riv-nuts.

I'll do the same. I just have the one lower rivet through the body and I'm waiting for the rear wheelwells to blow forward.

Thanks for posting.

Dave #17
 

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Discussion Starter #367
Upgraded battery cutout
Upgraded turn signal switch.
Found short at end of rear turn signal (was loose)
Found multiple loose gauge connections and crimped then down better


FFR battery cutout seemed flimsy/failure prone.
 

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Discussion Starter #368
Rear wing X brace and air jack inlet are on.


Next step send them out for powder coat and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #371 (Edited)
Heat shields to protect from exhaust and plumbing.


Rear as seen from diff out.


Mount sans jack.


Inside body air fitting


Outside



Protector flap “extension” to keep tire and rocks from hammering to hard on front jack

 

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Discussion Starter #373 (Edited)
Welded on a few tow hook hard points for tie downs in the trailer.


Edit: my buddy Greg at Ignite performance in Denver is welding a cross piece on there today to keep the tie down straps located to center once things start jiggling around in the trailer. Pics to follow.

Edit: in video below of air jacks you can catch a glimpse of the tow strap cross brace welded in and the whole thing painted white.
 

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That is so cool! Congratulations on getting them installed and working properly!

Your whole car is spectacular, and I have enjoyed following along.

Regards,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #377
Jack photos



Radiator lower shield/ splitter lip is done

Down position


Hood raised.


It should keep the back of the splitter planted at speed and direct air onto my radiator and oil temp system.
 

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Discussion Starter #378
Track day in a month or so and I’m about ready.

-touch up some paint here and there. (Also compound out some orange peel)

-powder coat some braces and brackets

-finish building high pressure hoses for air jacks. (I’m putting 3-400 psi into that hose). I got lucky and scored some free 3500 psi hose and fittings that just need a little build up. I’m trying to find 400 psi rated quick pneumatic disconnects.

Hood realignment is done

Modified fuel tank cover (to make space for air jack hardware) is off to powder coat and needs a bit pop riveting to get in. There was nowhere to go with the hardware for air jacks but up an inch or so onto the hatch. We made them a couple “gurney bumps”

Idle seems normalized a bit after cleaning out the MAF sensor. I might need a little more time with the tuner guy to get it fully smoothed out. The idle “bumps up” at seemingly random intervals. It’s mostly just a nuisance, but need sorting.

Corner weights need doing.

Suspension tweaking, ride height and sway settings are the next phase. I’ll be doing that without aero on to get the handling the way I like it, then will bolt on aero and try to get it set for similar feel but more side G. My main adjustment will be rear spoiler angle of attack and spring rates.

New track pads need install and a good bleed I’m finally pulling my head out and running full track pads. I honestly have no idea why I was running mystery “shipped with” pads last time out, but I do know they were just street pads and I lost my pedal at a very opportune time!!! Exiting. (In a not so good way). The addition (connection really) of brake ducts should also help.

Rubbing issues sorted

Wheel spacing sorted

Fuel siphoning sorted

Electric (gauge) issues sorted

Cheesy battery cutout switch sorted

Aero install sorted (but will not run for a few sessions).

Registration sorted!!!!!

Damn I’m feeling very ready for spring. Wish us luck as we go from graduate to racer. This should be a telling year for this build.
 

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look forward to see how you are going to do the brake ducts.. :)
 
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