Roots type blowers like Sergio's and like what Kenne Bell makes (replaces your intake manifold) make more power earlier in the RPM range. Centrifugal type blowers like Vortech, Procharger, Powerdyne and Paxton, while cheaper, only start to make power around 3000RPM or higher.
I researched this extensively recently; even a cheap Paxton 5-6PSI blower at $1700 will cost you $1000 above and beyond that price by the time you upgrade fuel pump, injectors, MAF to compliment the injector upgrade, and a good dyno tune to make sure you aren't detonating. For the money, I decided that $$/HP it was cheaper to upgrade heads, intake, TB, MAF, injectors, and fuel pump.
N/A is certainly not as cool as a blown car, but it's all about the best bang for the buck. I really thought the blower would be the cheaper route, but after talking to a lot of experts here on this forum and in other places, the truth is otherwise. Ping Wade Chamberlain; he knows a lot about superchargers.
I'm running a vortec s-trim and love it. I used to have a powerdyne and loved that too but not quite as much. My 2 other cars have Eaton's and I love them too. Do you notice a trend here?
Any boost is good boost.
Boost is addictive but I wished i listened more closely to Mike Noyes... theres a learning curve with these animals. On top of the SC cost ($3000 for a basic KB) you also should upgrade your fuel system and get it dynod...plan on spending about $1000 for for these upgrades....but boy you can't beat the thrill of these things at full boost (thats 2000rpm's and up with the KB)..all i can say is hang on!.....
Snake skin I just finised installing my Vortech V1-s. Thsi is what i have learned.
If you go with the basis setup you will be ok. With your stock set up and a FMU. Any increase in boost and it's an entire different ball game. I purchase my Vortech really cheap. I have spent twice the amount of the S/c on upgrading everything else. My pump, injectors, MAF meter. It adds up really fast.
If you have a stock engine and stick with 6 lbs. you can get by with an FMU. I would upgrade the fuel pump to be sure it can keep up with the FMU and fuel needs.
It is when you start upgrading or put one on a non stock engine that you really start spending.
Kenne Bell is a twin screw. Twin screws compress internally, roots compresses in the manifold. Better efficiency too. Greg, you will be forgiven this time. LOL Ok you can lump them together as Positive Displacement blowers.
If you can't guess, I have a KB and it is a blast. Tons of tire wrecking torque.
Currently running a 1.5 liter Kenne Bell blower that used to be on my Mustang.
The KB (or any roots type supercharger)is a great street blower as it produces boost from right off idle so has the feel of a big block. Even though they produce tons of torque they are easy to drive because of the flat boost curve.
Centrifugals are a little different, the boost curve increases with rpm so you may only get a couple of pounds of boost at 3000rpm but with the right pulley get 10 to 15 pounds or more at 6000 rpm. What this gives you is a real dramatic feel of ever increasing accelleration, until you have to shift of course. The only pitfall with belt driven centrifugals is that you must choose a pulley that provides the max boost you want (or can safely) run at redline and then accept the fact that you only see that boost at max rpms. At all rpms below that you see something less than full boost.
Turbos are really just an exhaust driven centrifugal. Yes they are centrifugals but they are typically controlled by a wastegate that is designed to regulate boost. So a well designed turbo set up will easily top the low end boost of a belt driven centrifugal but not be at risk of 'overboost' at the higher rpms because of the wastegate. Althuogh far more complex a system to fabricate and install they provide better mid range torque than a belt driven centrififugal and more top end power too largely due to the fact that they do not directly rob crank horse power to drive them.
A pretty simplistic overview I know but hopefully that helps.
And here is a warning..... It is NOT cheap to run a blower. There are a only a handful of people that install the base kit and are happy there. Just about everybody wants to turn up the boost and that means; bigger injectors, fuel pump, MAF meter, upgraded ignition etc. Oh, and then you will find weak links like the clutch, the tranny and eventually the block, and the list just goes on. It is addictive but once you are bitten be prepared to to pay the price.
Powerdyne 6 psi and like John (Cobra 302)says, the add ons are the killers! Went with the P-Dyne because it was the cheapest out there at $1600 and I have no intention of going over 6 psi. I didn't like the idea of an FMU for reliability reasons and went with a 90 mm MAF, 42 pound injectors and a 190 lph Walbro fuel pump. Added to my E cam GT40 crate motor clone, I pull 355 RWHP and 365 RWT. Plenty fast. Oh, yeah, add a quick $500 for the dyno tune to make it all work! But if was counting pennys I would have one of these cars to begin with!
Here's what I just bought last week. A used 2.2L KB w/Flowzilla intake. I've run power adders on my Mustang for the past 10 years. The 1.5L KB was my favorite setup... just a little too small. I spent the last 7 years with turbos but they are a lot of work compared to a good SC setup.
The power adder route definitely ups the cost considerably. On top of the blower you'll eventually need a new fuel system, MAF and some means of tuning it. It's a fair amount of work and cost but when you get it all sorted out it's more than worth it.
Well, since we are talking forced induction, I run garret ballistic twin-turbos. Too much fun but more work to initially set up than a supercharger. I make 15 lbs boost at 3000 rpm on 92 octane pump gas. If cost is a factor, the cheapest route by far is boost in a bottle, aka nitrous-oxide.
What spec turbos are you running? I am currently piecing together a pair for the FFR that I think will work quite well but it's always good to get a benchmark from someone that has a good running combination. Thanks.
You're gonna love the larger KB. I have the 1.5 and I know what you mean about it being too small. Quite frustrating to only see 5 lbs of boost even with the tiny pulley.
I installed a 1.5KB. The dyno shows a constant 8.4 PSI in Calgary with the 9PSI pulley, which is about normal at our elevation.
Before I installed the KB, the stock 5.0 car would just barely spin the 295 BF goodriches in 2nd gear. Then I put the 9PSI, 80MM MAF, 28lb injectors, and 255gph fuel pump on the car.
Before I even drove it once, I took it to the dyno. It smoked the stock clutch on the dyno on the first pull. He tuned it but told me to get a a King Cobra Clutch in it.
On the first test of my full set up, I drove it around to work in the clutch. Then I rode the clutch from a dead stop in third gear. As it came up on 2000 rpm it sort of bogged a little. Then at 2000 rpm, the tires started spinning my friend - and they don't stop spinning until you are going 60 mph - in about 4 seconds.
Its psycho, and thats all there is to it. Freaken scary. That is what a Kenne Bell does for you. It gives you all you want and it is so dramatically different from a stock set up... it truly turns it into a big block. Like I haven;t tried it yet, but I bet it would chirp the tires going into 4th gear at 70 mph.
I beileve that if I put some stickier tires on the car, I will shortly thereafter be putting a T5Z in it. Then the money spending should stop (until I blow the head gaskets and replace with new heads and ARP bolts)
See what I mean - its totally pscho fun and it is expensive.
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