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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been 4 years getting close to finishing build, about time got around to posting a build thread.

This a Gen I chassis, Edelbrock crate supercharged coyote (2015-17).
Right hand drive conversion, built in New Zealand where the National Hot Rod Association wrote the vehicle build safety guidelines for the government (yes, really)

Fair bit of work required to meet safety compliance and plumbing the engine and intercooler. Went with air con powered heat exchanger, this works really well and eliminates the need for a low temp radiator. Is the size of a brick.

Will start with posting the supercharged engine fitment and mods, probably of interest to more people than RHD conversion or boring safe car stuff.

1. Alternator mounting
2. Air con / intercooler setup plumbing and electronics
3. Coyote cooling system reworked to factory style self-burping

Quick overview and pics below, details to follow.

Engine, behind is the T56 Magnum tranny.

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Engine in place - needs the FFR supercharger bump hood.

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Engine bay from left, shows alternator mount location. Can see the thermostat housing has been removed and remote-mounted just above the steering rack.

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Here is the heat exchanger - view from under engine - mounted under L engine mount. Thermostat is to be mounted just above that 180 degree U-bend fitting. A heat shield keeps heat from the header off all this.

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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot this, modified aftermarket coyote radiator reservoir (Mishimoto). This is plumbed same as the stock engine with a self-burping pressurised system. Needs modifying to fit in the 33 engine bay (bottom corner shaved off to fit against the valve cover and hose outlets moved to stay out of the way of hood pins). Maybe an inch clearance to hood. Needs a stock coyote reservoir cap 23psi, and a Ford hose with a one-way valve goes from the radiator neck to reservoir. Why bother? 1. Coyote seems to needs a big overflow tank, 2L at least. 2. Getting all the air out especially from the right cylinder head is a pain in the arse and after the 3rd or 4th time I drained and refilled the engine I was over it.

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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Details on Alternator relocation
Have to move alternator on coyote because a frame member goes through the middle of it. FFR has a plan for the stock coyote, move it to the right side of the engine mounted backward.
Can't do that on a supercharged engine because the heavy duty tensioner (circled in red below) has to be there. Edelbrock engineer suggested moving the thermostat housing, so I did that and it worked out well.

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Like this

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Mount bracket design. CAD file is on internet somewhere. Thermostat housing "hidden". 3 timing cover bolts and a pulley bolt to be used to mount the bracket.

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The part bolted to the thermostat housing outlet is a "Coyote thermostat housing eliminator" or something like that, from Jegs. Need 2, one for the engine, one to bolt to back of the thermostat housing, machined to mate properly, left a groove for the o-ring.

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Thermo housing from back:

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Mount bracket for housing:

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in place

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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
(more Thermostat Housing)

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BTW: How to make "custom" radiator hoses: Making Custom Radiator Hoses
Joiners and heat shrink hose clamps. And bits of coathanger taken down to the auto shop.

Also, if there is any lateral stress on the barbs, use two hose clamps or spring clamps, or they will leak.

And don't forget to torque up the alternator pulley good and tight (somehow). Otherwise, it comes off, shreds your belt and wrecks the pulley. Ask me how I know. 🤪

30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Intercooler Heat Exchanger

Few possible solutions to the "where can I fit a low temp (intercooler) radiator":
1. sissy down the boost so you can get away without one (probably the best and simplest solution in hindsight, who really really needs 800hp?). I said pfffft to that idea.
2. Extend out the grill, rebuild side covers, front fenders if using, rebuild the whole front of the car basically, to fit in the LTR (radiator).
3. Mount it out the back somewhere, with some fans or something. There is room to do this below the fuel tank if you move the battery elsewhere.

I bought a "killerchiller" kit but can get these heat exchangers separately with appropriate fittings, hose, solenoid valves, thermostat and other electronics. The killerchiller setup is designed to piggyback on existing plumbing and takes some short cuts that probably can get away with but aren't good.

My design is robust and well engineered, compact and works better than an LTR.
Intercooler (IC) coolant is well below ambient temperature. I couldn't come up with a way to fit a cool air intake so this more than compensates for that I think.

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Mount bracket under L side engine mount.

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Final version - those plastic elbow fittings leak, replaced with swivel fittings. Thermostat has a little knob can adjust from under the car to adjust the IC coolant temperature. ECU complains if IAC is too cold...

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Pictures of all the plumbing is hard to make sense of. Diagram of AC refrigerant flow and IC coolant flow below.

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SV1 and 2 are 12V O-Ring bearing solenoids designed for HVAC application. KC kit came with NPT solenoid, not fit for purpose.

Electronics below, more than one way to do this, below works and fan doesn't flick on and off every 10 seconds.

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There is a reason for everything done way it is above. Like I said, more than one way, I went through 3 versions until above up and running properly.

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This is idling but get the idea. Can get it down to 4°C if really want, but ECU throws fault codes if IAT is too cold.

(79°F, 56°F and 39°F for you jokers in the 'states).

No, I haven't checked temperatures after sustained driving on boost because there isn't a racetrack near my house.

I will do this and post some IAT log data to satisfy morbid curiosity.

30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Factory Coolant Reservoir
Refer diagram below. Reservoir tank is under pressure and has a 23psi pressure cap. Can modify 33 hot rod coyote to use this setup without too much trouble. 33HR radiator cap needs the spring valve cut off, so air/coolant can flow freely to the reservoir. This hose (* below) has has to have a 1 way valve in it. Ford part nos. FR3Z-8075-E for the overflow hose with valve and the radiator cap is DG9Z-8100-A.
2nd reservoir inlet hose (attaches at † below) from the burper on top of the water pump has an internal pipe that goes down to the bottom of the reservoir ie below the fluid level. I guess so air can bubble out but it can only suck fluid back into the engine.
3rd hose is return to the water pump from base of the tank (orange hose below). I had to modify my Y-pipe to fit my alternator bracket so a 3 way Y connector joins this hose and the heater return (other orange hose) so only one hose attaches to my modified heater inlet.

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I bought a Mishimoto aftermarket tank because this one had a overflow outlet (stock I guess just spills out the cap). I cut a diagonal slice off the bottom of the tank, moved the bottom outlet pipe and moved the radiator outflow inlet as well.

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Red is the radiator inflow, moved because the hood pin hits it. Green the bottom inlet which was elsewhere on the base on an angle and the corner cut went through the middle of it too.
Yellow is the burp port inlet, hose goes under the SC cover, can't quite see the inlet barb in this picture. Purple is where the overflow port is, was a weird size I drilled and tapped it to 1/8 BSP and put an elbow to 5mm barb on it. Its not attached to anything yet, probably just a hose to the ground. Think some racetracks require overflow containers not want coolant leaking on their nice tracks.

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Undies on the floor there is a rag BTW. Shed a bit dusty for that sort of nonsense.
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