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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mark II with a 427 stroker, external fuel pump and a stock tank with pickup tubes.

Twice I've had the pickup tube assembley that mounts where the original pump assembly mounted, shift, which results in a gap at the top of the tank and fuel will come out. It's really a bummer when you fill the tank and gas runs out from under the car.

I also can't go below 1/3 of a tank or I will suck vapors around corners.

I need to go to a tank or fuel cell with a sump.

Does anyone have opinions and or pictures on what they've done?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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1,996 Posts
Mike,

I havent ever read about this problem before, neither here nor on corral.

The locking ring on top of the in-tank pickup should be very tight, I dont see how this could move. If its loose, either get a new one (from Breeze) or try to fix it with some sort of adhesive.

The stock tank also has a baffle in it, so unless you do some racing it should work well even if you are low-ish on fuel. One thing that could be is that the metal tube from the new pick-up does not reach to the bottom of the tank.

If the latter is the case, maybe you are best off with a new pick-up from Fortes or Breeze (depending on rubber or AN line). This and a new locking ring are less than $100 and should do the trick.

Lukas
 

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he who lives by the sword. gets shot by those who
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2,847 Posts
I would bet the O'ring has either shifted and or fell out while locking the pick up tube into place, there is a special socket for tightening the lock rings, most people just use a screw driver or chisel to turn it though, another option is to go "AN" fuel lines and use a Granatelli fuel pick up tube (pictured) just a suggestion..... Ben
 

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Senior Member
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5,573 Posts
I found that the "o" rings, if stressed at all during install, get stretched and no longer seat properly. They will roll over on their side which is a smaller dimension and not be under enough pressure. In one case while messing with my fuel sender I had to get a new one so that it would stay "upright" and seal correctly.

Just a thought.
 

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Mike, I'm running the "old style" FFR Fuel Safe fuel cell with an in tank pump. The pump and sender seal with a "cork" gasket. Maybe these fuel cells are still available somewhere.

I think Aeromotive also makes a replacement tank for the stock mustang tank.
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=27
Good Luck
Ken
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Mike I am running a Ground Pounder pickup. All of these pickups seem overpriced.

Mine was loose at first. I tightened up the ears that are over the ring, not much just a very little. I simply hit them with the right size hammer and a flat faced punch. My rubber ring still worked.

Its a tight fit and so far no problems.

Rick
 

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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm currently using the Granatelli pickup but for some reason their tabs that fit in the tank to orient the pickup was off by 90 degrees and wouldn't work.
They insisted that there was nothing wrong with their product and wouldn't take it back. I matched it up with the intank pump that I pulled out and it was definately off.
I ended up cutting off the mouting tabs to get it to work. I'm sure that's why it's working loose.
I'm running 42# injectors and I've heard the pump windup like it's sucking air more than once below a third of a tank.
The Aeromotive tank looks like the hose connections are at the bottom rear of the tank which on an FFR will look exposed & I'm not too excited about that.

Thanks for the feedback so far.
 

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I sumped a brand new tank myself.

The Mustang sumped tanks out there (Aeromotive, X2C Motorsports) seemed very expensive to me.

A brand new Mustang tank is ~ $140 (zero for you since you have one already), and a fabbed up sump with 1/2" bungs is $59.95 from Wild Rides Race Cars.



Even though it's supposed to be "Mustang fitted", a little hammer & propane torch action will get it to fit just right.



After opening a few 2" holes in the bottom of the tank for baffling (you get a template), you can weld the sump on, or take it to a radiator/muffler shop so they can do it. No more than a few bucks. (pic shows only spot welds, after that I stitch welded the whole thing around).





I then put some POR-15 tank sealer (just to make sure it wouldn't leak through a small pinhole and to prevent corrosion (sump piece is plain steel). This was after I pressure tested it with water and dye/UV light from the parts store. I also roughrd up and painted the tank with Duplicolor Gloss Black paint.

The plastic cover was then marked and the hole for the sump was cut. I roughed it up and painted it with some Duplicolor trim plastic paint. (pic is before paint)



This is the final product:



 

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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Luis, any pictures on how you routed your fuel lines? That's the part I'm really stewing about right now.
 

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hehe, haven't got to that part yet but have some ideas floating in my head ;)
 

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lookin good luis. wanna do another? :D Just kidding...
 
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