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Building a MK4 roadster using 03 stang donor. Stock calipers, 4 link rear susp., stock parking brake cables, stock parking brake handle.

The FF manual says to remove the bolt holding the parking brake adjustment ratchet. Have done that and have absolutely no tension on the cables. Pulling the brake handle has no effect since the parking brake handle is no longer mechanically connected to the equalizer shaft/cable. Unfortunately the manual is of no help.

I have also tried re-installing the ratchet lock plate and adjusting the ratchet to the first tooth and also the last and neither gives me the tension I need to actuate the calipers.
 

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Blue Oval Scribe
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You can either tack weld the pawl to the gear and use an adjustable cable (search M-2300-K Ford Racing brake install/directions for details) or you can do what I did since I didn't have a welder. You can drill through the gear and handle and bolt them together (old trick Richard Oben told me about) but what I did was simply tap the existing hole for a 1/4-20 bolt and then secure with a nut. The nut will grab/push the gear almost instantly when you pull back on the handle.

Like this:


HTH...
Mark
 

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You can either tack weld the pawl to the gear and use an adjustable cable (search M-2300-K Ford Racing brake install/directions for details) or you can do what I did since I didn't have a welder. You can drill through the gear and handle and bolt them together (old trick Richard Oben told me about) but what I did was simply tap the existing hole for a 1/4-20 bolt and then secure with a nut. The nut will grab/push the gear almost instantly when you pull back on the handle.

Like this:


HTH...
Mark
Ditto this is the solution
 

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Is this just a donor part problem?

I am about to install my e-brake now and the brake handle I have is the OEM mustang part like Breeze sells. It is a new Ford part. It has a U-pin in place that holds the coiled spring that is to be removed once handle and cables are installed.

I assume that removing the U-pin will release the spring and everything will tighten up.

Am I wrong about this? Or is the fix discussed here required.
 

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Blue Oval Scribe
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The U-clip is in the hole shown above that I tapped for the 1/4-20 bolt. The U-clip holds the spring in tension until the cables are installed. Pulling the pin is supposed to allow the self-adjuster to engage and make the necessary adjustment to tension everything, but the typical rear brake caliper and parking brake setup that is used won't allow the self-adjusting mechanism to function properly. The fix is to tack weld the parking brake handle, or to bolt the two together. I opted for the simple fix shown in my post above and many have followed suit with zero issues. Just be sure to use an adjustable cable between the handle and the rear cable assemblies so you can adjust for cable stretch.

HTH...
Mark
 

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The U-clip is in the hole shown above that I tapped for the 1/4-20 bolt. The U-clip holds the spring in tension until the cables are installed. Pulling the pin is supposed to allow the self-adjuster to engage and make the necessary adjustment to tension everything, but the typical rear brake caliper and parking brake setup that is used won't allow the self-adjusting mechanism to function properly. The fix is to tack weld the parking brake handle, or to bolt the two together. I opted for the simple fix shown in my post above and many have followed suit with zero issues. Just be sure to use an adjustable cable between the handle and the rear cable assemblies so you can adjust for cable stretch.

HTH...
Mark
:glare:

Thanks for the clarification.
I now understand the handle/lever fix.


But now I have questions about what you mean by "adjustable cable between handle and rear cable assemblies"?

Why am I getting that feeling I am about to have to order another part!

I take it that the shorter T-cable depicted in the Mk IV manual and sold by Breeze (Ford Part E7ZZ-2A603-A) is not going to be used.

Here is what I was planning on using:
1) 93-04 Mustang Cables (already have from Breeze) that mount to the front bracket near the handle and go directly to the "T". I have the Breeze rear disc brake set up and the cables came with it.

2) Ford OEM Parking Brake Lever (F5ZZ-2780-AA) like depicted in the Mk IV build manual and sold by Breeze.

3) Shorter T-Cable (Ford Part E7ZZ-2A603-A) like depicted in the manual and sold by Breeze.


Do I need the shorter T-Cable? Does it get used?
Do the 93-04 Mustang Brake Cables get used?

If I need something adjustable, do you have a part recommendation?
 

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Here is what I was planning on using:

1) 93-04 Mustang Cables (already have from Breeze) that mount to the front bracket near the handle and go directly to the "T". I have the Breeze rear disc brake set up and the cables came with it.

2) Ford OEM Parking Brake Lever (F5ZZ-2780-AA) like depicted in the Mk IV build manual and sold by Breeze.

3) Shorter T-Cable (Ford Part E7ZZ-2A603-A) like depicted in the manual and sold by Breeze.

Do I need the shorter T-Cable? Does it get used?
Do the 93-04 Mustang Brake Cables get used?

If I need something adjustable, do you have a part recommendation?
I've done the Mustang e-brake handle on both of my builds, so can share my experience. Yes, you need the T-Cable, or equalizer as it's often called. That's how you're going to attach your two cables to the drum on the e-brake handle assembly. I can't answer about the specific cables you have. I assume they're the right length for your installation, and have the right ends for the equalizer and for your rear calipers. Here's where I'm going to differ from the information you're already received. I didn't do the mod to the e-brake handle on either of my builds. I've left the self-adjusting mechanism in place. Like was said, when the installation is complete, pull the little U-shaped pin out and the adjuster will take up the slack and start working. The e-brake in both of my builds has worked fine, and I use it all the time when parked, in the trailer, etc. You can find the mod to the e-brake handle described in Ford's drum brake to disk brake conversion instructions. The concern is that the self-adjusting mechanism puts too much tension on the cables for the disk brake setup. If the cables don't completely release the brakes heat up, start dragging, etc. So the self-adjuster is disabled and all adjustment is then done with a threaded adjustment on the cables. I originally had some of those cables during my Mk3 build, but didn't use them. I found the extra length was difficult to fit into the space and routing available in the transmission tunnel, plus they would have been hard to access for adjustment. In the back, they wouldn't make the turn to the caliper. I'm sure others have been able to fit them in, but I decided to try without them. My advice is to install with the self-adjusting mechanism in place, then make sure that the e-brake is not dragging your rear calipers. Disable only if necessary. This has worked fine for me.
 

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I've done the Mustang e-brake handle on both of my builds, so can share my experience. Yes, you need the T-Cable, or equalizer as it's often called. That's how you're going to attach your two cables to the drum on the e-brake handle assembly. I can't answer about the specific cables you have. I assume they're the right length for your installation, and have the right ends for the equalizer and for your rear calipers. Here's where I'm going to differ from the information you're already received. I didn't do the mod to the e-brake handle on either of my builds. I've left the self-adjusting mechanism in place. Like was said, when the installation is complete, pull the little U-shaped pin out and the adjuster will take up the slack and start working. The e-brake in both of my builds has worked fine, and I use it all the time when parked, in the trailer, etc. You can find the mod to the e-brake handle described in Ford's drum brake to disk brake conversion instructions. The concern is that the self-adjusting mechanism puts too much tension on the cables for the disk brake setup. If the cables don't completely release the brakes heat up, start dragging, etc. So the self-adjuster is disabled and all adjustment is then done with a threaded adjustment on the cables. I originally had some of those cables during my Mk3 build, but didn't use them. I found the extra length was difficult to fit into the space and routing available in the transmission tunnel, plus they would have been hard to access for adjustment. In the back, they wouldn't make the turn to the caliper. I'm sure others have been able to fit them in, but I decided to try without them. My advice is to install with the self-adjusting mechanism in place, then make sure that the e-brake is not dragging your rear calipers. Disable only if necessary. This has worked fine for me.
Thanks for the advice :yes:

All the parts I have came from Breeze including my rear disc brakes. And are suppose to work together. The handle and T-cable are suppose to work with the brake cables Breeze supplied.

The only difference is that Breeze made it clear that for the cables I have; I am to use the frame e-brake cable bracket closest to the handle.

I will go with it as is and see what happens.
 
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