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Discussion Starter #121
Minor update, I got the differential out of the Factory Five as-designed mounts and raised it about 3" with a jack to get the coupler I made installed.

You can see my driveline is pretty much one giant inline group of stuff.


Here's a closer view of the coupler from above installed and how much the diff was raised.


Finally, a back view showing the new position I need to make mounts for:
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Here's first cut at the axle angle with a 4.5" or so ride height. I'll know better once I get the whole powertrain height and position finalized, but we're looking good for now:


Next up is the height of the engine end at the mounts and then seeing how to snake the front driveshaft in. If that shows good I'll weld in a new frame beam for the new differential height and redo the engine mounts before starting to cut up the front suspension area to make room for the front diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Thought experiment time:
I've been reading about multiple people trying to quiet down the exhaust volume, Slimline 30" being sold out (my original option), etc and I wanted to get an idea of what I could do with yet another non-standard idea. Since I had time at my computer after getting a CNC job started at work, I played around with using a muffler and tucking it in the Coupe recess and begin seeing how it would work.
Obviously this isn't a finished product. I haven't verified the dimensions on the car itself but I pulled actual sizes from a few mufflers online, chose circle and oval pipe sizes based on rough numbers for flow, and started up our CAD software. Here's the result after a couple hours.




You'll need to ignore the left side since I'm leaning towards a tri-Y header design to widen the powerband and clearly it sticks forward of the actual body opening right now. The bottom element is a side skirt that would be enabled with my widebody setup and having to put in some wheel arch flares to fit the tires completely.

As stated, completely a thought experiment but since I haven't had time to touch the actual car, this was the next best thing for an engineer.
 

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I think this would not look good on an original looking car however, you are redefining your coupe completely and for your car I think it would look really cool.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Thanks for the input John. I know it's not standard or authentic looking so I'm still having to weigh how much of it I want to consider.
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A bit of a progression on the thought experiment. I measured some on the actual body and tried to better match them in 3D. I also added some wheels and the flares I'll need to support my other changes. I colored the body silver/steel/grey to better match how it'll be to reflect my thinking.


In other news, since I was able to spend a few minutes of time in my garage after doing some yard work, I notched yet another frame member near the transmission mount location so it would clear the CV joint of the front driveshaft. Looking even closer now although it'll need a custom length in the end. The lowest point of the CV cup is flush with the bottom plane of the chassis and the current diameter driveshaft just clears the transmission mount plate
 

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Discussion Starter #126
I've been thinking more about the front suspension and assembly and decided to spend a whopping $50 to help make some progress. That let me order front hubs for a recent Ford Explorer AWD model since they check a couple requirements. First, they're splined for front axles (27 splines), second they're 5x4.5 or 5x114.5 so they share the same wheel PCD as the 2015+ Mustang GT IRS hubs, third they have the same hub diameter meaning the same wheel bore with hubcentric rings and the ability to rotate tires, and an added fourth... they're super inexpensive if a bearing fails.


They did come with the downfall of having a larger diameter hub section where the brake rotors go meaning the Wilwood aluminum rotor hat wouldn't fit. The hub also has what I found to be a 5/64" radius at the bottom which added some fun to make things flat. The Factory Five hubs and knuckles are much smaller in diameter, helped in large part by not needing an axle and splines going through it.


All in all, I had to increase the rotor hat hub bore from about 3.05" to 3.23" along with an inboard chamfer to clear the hub radius. Not terribly complex but holding that in the lathe proved fun since I couldn't chuck it up internally since that was the machined area. Next up is stacking the hub, rotor, and wheel together to figure out the stud replacement lengths and pressing those in with ones that match the rear (unlike the FFR instructions which press out the rears to match the fronts.


I'm also modeling up new rear suspension A-arms to support the longer rear axles. More on that later
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Visual update for the front:


Next up on this is starting to design the knuckle to support this particular hub and caliper setup as well as figuring out the ackerman steering and tie rod placement.
 

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Looking good, sounds like you have the skills and knowledge to git er done.
I guess that's how you eat an elephant, one bite at a time!
 

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The amount of work is insane.. and impressive at every turn... will continue to look forward to the updates.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Long overdue update after being super busy with work and trying to take care of things at home with other projects.

I've been trying to do even more planning and see how everything up front can fit in the frame and still function well. Here are some pictures of it all:

With the engine raised some because of driveline fitment, the intake manifold is going to be mighty close to the hood. The front diff in this picture is slightly offset to the passenger side since I need to cut the frame on the driver side to make it fit. On top is the GT350 electric steering rack I want to also try to fit after seeing if I can make it work with the AEM Infinity CANBUS outputs


Top view of everything mentioned above and the steering rack just sitting on top waiting to find a location


Side view of the car with more in place. Note, the passenger side rear is still the 'stock' Factory Five suspension


Here's more of the skinny Voodoo engine parts (de-bored Voodoo by using a Coyote block) since I had them set out for people to see during a 'tech talk' about kit cars at my house with a local car group... more on that later


Future work is still trying to get the front all sorted out with so much stuff fitting that isn't designed by Factory Five to be there
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Small update after long delay. Work has still been busy and I've been having to take care of a lot of other things too, so the car has sat waiting for me for a while now while I ponder about how to implement next steps.

On a bright note, I received a question at work about a 3d scanner so I ended up being the one to hunt down a scanner that was stashed away years ago and got it finally running enough to do a scan. Keep in mind this is both 10 year old technology and my first time, but since I had my electric power steering rack for the Coupe in my daily driver's trunk, I used it as a test sample to scan. Now I can see how it'll fit in 3D assuming I can model up the front differential! Too bad I don't have a scanner of my own that could scan all of the parts ahead of time.

 

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Discussion Starter #132
The build continues, just not at the pace I was once doing...

Everything clearly won't fit up front and I'm a little more hesitant to just go cutting everything like I did the center (that's recoverable, the front would need more of a jig to hold everything true). With that, I've been doing lots and lots of measuring and translating that into 3D so I can move things around and be more intentional about cuts and modifications. I also would have a fair amount of difficulty holding everything in place due to the weight of the front differential and steering rack not to mention the position I'd have to be in to hold everything at once.

CAD to the rescue!
I think this might work if I can get the steering geometry to work with the rack in this location. It's upper aft to clear the front driveshaft and leave the airflow from the radiator out the top of the hood.

Front view:


Top view:


Back to front. Here you can see I tilted the electric steering rack back about 45 degrees because of the motor and electronics. This also helps the input angle relative to where the steering shaft exits the footbox:


Left-ish ISO view:


As you can see, the factory shock location just isn't going to work once an axle is in place. I'm also going to check how the front driveshaft will force the driver side motor mount pillar to change. I'm also really, really hoping the model can translate into the real world without lots of last minute catches.

With any luck I'll be able to cut and fit physical parts before too long instead of just 3D!
 

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Good to see you have the tools available to you to do the CAD renderings. That makes quicker work of it for sure. Can’t wait to see this in real life.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #134
More 3d eye candy while I kill time not running around away from home in the Seattle area (not that I really do anyway since I'm an introverted engineer haha).

I've been thinking about the upright/spindle for the front suspension as well as the A-arms and here where I'm at now:


And looking inboard with the brake rotor hidden:


For this setup to work I'll need to double check the steering rack fitment right above the differential and I'll need to swap the Wilwood rotor hats for a lower, near zero offset instead of the ones that were included and I already modified. Small cost mistake but in the grand scheme not terrible. If I can get this all to look functional I'll start looking into fabricating the parts... that is after I design the pushrod, bellcrank, and coilover setup. The wide front suspension will work with or without AWD but I'm still doing it fully with AWD in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Now that it's a month later from my previous post and I've finally had a few minutes to keep designing, here are some updates regarding the suspension getting closer to feasible. The pivot point of the outer CV is still a bit of a concern for me because it doesn't line up with the rotational axis of the upright assembly which makes the overall axle length increase with large steering angles. I'm not sure it would be enough for the halfshaft to pop out but it's something I need to look into.

Other than that, I've got a better steering rack position using the manual rack, the pushrod location roughed out to clear the halfshaft and the A-arm, and an approximate location for the bellcrank and shock. I've also reworked the steering bracket which helps keep the moment arm length to keep steering effort from being too high, especially with a manual rack.

With the pushrod moving and having to clear the halfshaft it's imposing that I move the pickup point inboard which then increases the bending moment on the arm, thickens the tubes, etc. Not great but a fair tradeoff to get this all working functionally.



Also, fender flare idea update:
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Some of you may have already seen this on FB or IG, but I wanted to put it here for those of you who haven't seen it and also to document it for myself for later.

Here's some late night design on the headers. The layout gives me a tri-Y with 25" long stepped (15” of 1 3/4” to 10” of 1 7/8”) primaries, 36" long (2 1/4”) secondaries. This will let me be balanced and also clear my front driveshaft for AWD. Final Y collector is at the end of the two secondaries but not shown.



Part of my reasoning for this is to broaden the powerband instead of having it all be aimed up top with a shorter 4 to 1 or slightly more peaked but slightly wider with a longer 4 to 1. Another reason to try to do it this way is to get my Coyote based Voodoo setup not to sound like an obnoxious Honda 4 cylinder on either side of my head while sitting in the car (and to others).

I realize there's a lot more complexity than the standard routing but I was going to redesign the side pipes anyway because of the standard restrictions and poor side pipe connection, the engine is raised about 3” to accommodate the transfer case and front driveshaft, the steering shaft won’t be in the same location, and the driveshaft is in the way if I go straight down.

Still… comments, suggestions, random thoughts, dislikes, etc. all welcome since I know people on here are pretty level headed and many have more experience than I do.
 
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