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Discussion Starter #1
Well, it's fast approaching so I wanted to kick off the build thread.

Let me first say to Factory Five: Please, please offer a 50/50 sale! I'll put in my order the first day I know about it!! I'll take delivery at any time and have the money in hand. I can also keep a secret if you let me in on the deal tomorrow :)

Ok... now that I have that over with. Let me introduce my build:

As you can see, I've poured lots of money and time (kidding) into an early prototype by ordering a die cast model and wrapping it in 3M brushed steel vinyl.

On a serious note, here's what I have in mind for my build:
Type 65 Coupe Base Kit
Coyote engine
AEM Infinity control
Tremec something (TKO 600, T-56, or T-6060)
New IRS
Heat and A/C
Wilwoods at some point

The engine build may start out as a F150 engine just to get started due to funds but I have some lofty goals.
There are other things I have in mind to do to the kit as an overly ambitious engineer, but those things will be revealed in time to keep everyone guessing.
 

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Welcome! Don't be afraid to ask questions and Good Luck!

Rob
 

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Well, I will also keep my mouth shut about your sinister plans.

I have opinions about transmissions also so feel free to ping me on that one too !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Snakebit31: Thanks! Don't worry, I'll be asking plenty of questions :)
@SeattleDad: The last time we talked I think you used the word "crazy" and not "sinister" haha! I hope my unique ideas for a powertrain, drivetrain, body, and more will end up just as sinister as I have in my mind.
I think I may be set with a modified TR-6060 at this point for various reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Although FFR is now offering a deal on wheels and tires which means the 50/50 sale probably isn't going to happen right away, I have been working more overtime than I'd like which gave me the funds to get this bundle of parts earlier.

The eBay find let me get the whole rear IRS setup from a 2016 Mustang GT with the Performance Package that was front end crashed at 5k miles. The seller also had it listed for the price of the base Mustang parts so effectively I got everything for half of what the differential by itself would cost new! At 5k miles, everything is practically new. Add in that I can go-cart with the stock rear brakes and sell them later, and I'm pretty happy with the find.

3.73 Torsen is the first confirmed detail of my build :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not to "let the coyote out of the bag", but I found an engine!



It's from a 2015 F-150 so it has the newer cast heads, the intake with charge motion, I think the upgraded oil pump gears, and other minor changes. Nearly everything is shared with the 2015 Mustang GT and what isn't can be easily swapped.

Since I found it for so little cost, I expect a few upgraded parts will be showing up for it over the course of my build... some of which SeattleDad has already got the inside scoop on.

More parts for a kit I don't have yet haha
 

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I spent about 3 years gathering parts for my coupe build. When F5 was doing their black friday sales I bought a bunch from them, wheels, control arms, carpet, ect. I also bought a brand new rear axle from Forte with brakes for a good price. I also got the engine in advance as well as the transmission. I had a bunch of stuff but no coupe for a while. Now I am doing the body work, and have test run the engine. Basically I am about 70% done in about 2 years. I had some setbacks and a few months where it was too hot or cold to work in the garage or I did't have the time. But now I am back on track. I do have a connection for paint, my wife works for PPG and makes automotive paint!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like I'm not alone in the parts acquisition then. FFR's got a great SEMA sale going on now for most kits so I didn't expect them to offer even more for Black Friday. Good on them for doing that.

I'll be scouring the net to see if there are other things I can pick up at a good price this weekend to hold me over until I have the motor physically in my possession and I can do a tear-down and verify the condition of everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Time for another pun: Two heads are better than one!


Since I got the F-150 engine for such a low price, I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased these GT350 heads. I'm still lower than my initial budget of a base 5.0 crate motor, but this should give me a good bump in performance and let me sell the stock heads.

Now to let my bank account take a rest.
 

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Those are incredible heads and supposedly worth almost 100hp.
I understand that they are completely different, but I would imagine they just mean the casting. Do you know if the rest of the hardware from your f150 heads bolts in, cams springs followers etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those are incredible heads and supposedly worth almost 100hp.
I understand that they are completely different, but I would imagine they just mean the casting. Do you know if the rest of the hardware from your f150 heads bolts in, cams springs followers etc?
I'd love it if they were worth 100hp, but I'm guessing that's based on the 5.0 vs a 5.0 with GT350 heads, GT350 intake, and long tube headers poster shown during a trade show. They have larger valves, slightly different valve axis of orientation, and are fully CNC on the chamber side. If they are worth 100hp, then I guess I'll have a really fun (or scary) build.

From what I've been reading, all of Ford's literature says there is a need to buy new lifters and rocker arms. Going off of Ford's online part database, the rockers and lifters have the same exact part numbers for the production GT and GT350. I know MMR sells modified rocker arms to allow the GT/F-150 cams to work in the GT350 heads because the GT cams have bigger base circles on their profile, but that doesn't explain the need to buy new rockers with the cross-plane cams made specifically for the GT350 heads. The heads come loaded with valves and valve springs.
... In short, I'm going to see what I can reuse and if I can compare the parts side by side and I'll report back what I find.

As for my cams and other internal items... well, that I'm keeping secret until I can start the engine and see if my build actually works with custom combination of parts I'm developing and electronics I'm learning. I'm leaning to start everything on a stand before it goes in the car to let the first start happen a lot earlier in the build
 

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Yes I remember now, 100hp is based, as you said, with other supporting parts.

RE: the electronics IMHO it best to use the ford ECM with a add on tuner because as far as I know no 3rd party ECUs have the Twin Independent Variable Camshaft Timing Ti-VCT working properly, and most require locking it out.
That is unfortunate because that's the real magic behind making a 302ci 435hp engine perfectly drivable.
 

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I've got the standalone idea covered with the AEM Infinity 708. The Ford ECM is too limited for what I want to do.

You can check out some of the discussion other forum members have had here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/524874-another-aem-infinity-ecu-install-coyote.html
Stix,

Glad to see you are going with the Infinity. I believe your expectations will be met or exceeded with the 708.

Trevor


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Trevor-
Your solid progress and willingness to help everyone is what made the decision even easier.
Any thoughts on how easy or difficult it would be to get it wired up enough for an engine start outside of the car?
 

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Completely doable but seems like a lot of extra work. I think with the engine mounted in the car, this will serve you better as you begin to layout your wiring and begin making your connections.

You certainly could start the engine outside of the car and wouldn't have to make all of the optional connections to a lot of the sensors, just the basics but still a fair amount of work, especially when you begin to terminate a lot of the blunt leads with pins to feed the sensors that you'll most likely cutoff and shorten up once you install in the chassis.

This motor just isn't quite like an old push-rod motor where you just need to give it a little fuel and spark to fire it up. With a motor like the Coyote, I would want as many of the sensors hooked up and running to keep a very close eye on the engine during first start to be sure all systems are go.

BTW I am assuming you are going with the stand-alone plug & play layover harness from AEM?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have you seen my garage thread? I don't mind a little extra work if it creates better results in the end and I can learn along the way. Maybe I'm too willing to do extra work once I get an idea in my mind :grin2:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/43-off-topic-discussions/556921-garage-setup-coupe-build-help-me-plan.html

I anticipate using AEM's harness since I'll never be able to use the Ford control pack. Is that what you'd recommend?

I'm ok firing things up using my laptop to monitor the engine sensors and make sure my modifications don't shake things apart or have other issues. Things like wheel triggers, A/C control, etc. won't be touched until install in the car. I may also ground and/or power things off a breadboard just to simplify things instead of doing full connectors on the bench.

Feel free to tell me I'm just crazy... I'm ok hearing that too
 

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I'll check out your garage thread.

Yes, I recommend using AEM's stand-alone harness. When I get some time, I will pull out my Ford Racing Controls pack harness and AEM's Ford Racing adapter harness and re-wire it with the stand-alone layover harness. AEM's PDB is much more compact than Ford Racing's PDB. Also, it eliminates the big adapter plug that plugs into the Controls Pack ECU. It will provide for a much cleaner install.

If you've got the time, then no, I don't think it's crazy to fire up the engine outside of the car. In fact, providing you have the time, it could be a great way to start familiarizing yourself with the wiring, data logging and tunings aspects of the Infinity ahead of time to take out some of the mystery. If you have anything wired incorrectly, it will be much easier to troubleshoot until you get everything sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll check out your garage thread.

Yes, I recommend using AEM's stand-alone harness. When I get some time, I will pull out my Ford Racing Controls pack harness and AEM's Ford Racing adapter harness and re-wire it with the stand-alone layover harness. AEM's PDB is much more compact than Ford Racing's PDB. Also, it eliminates the big adapter plug that plugs into the Controls Pack ECU. It will provide for a much cleaner install.
The harness is PN: 30-3813, correct? And that has the fuse block that will cover the whole car or will I need an expansion for other thigns? Have you been watching prices at all to know what is reasonable to pay?
Thanks for answering the barrage of questions :)
 
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