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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #1
Still battling the cooling gremlins. Now 20lb caps on radiator & "T", no leaks, but after a while, it still loses fluids. I am using the FFR supplied "T", could that be my culprit? Thiw weekend I will again pressure test the cooling system & run compression/leakdown checks to check the motor.

Need to get this fixed before the nationals, as I'm planning on driving it down.



[ September 12, 2005, 08:14 AM: Message edited by: Chepsk8 ]
 

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Charter Member
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I used a 20lb cap on the rad and a lower on
( 15 lb.?) on a Moroso "T" , if you have matched caps then the overflow won't work at the "T". With a lower lb. at the "T" it will open first, you don't want the cap at the radiator to ever open and release pressure. Hope this helps, Chris
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #4
It matches what caps I usually run, so maybe the problem is elsewhere, the testing should uncover that. I have seen many times on the forums complaints about the "T"....
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,684 Posts
Is it just pushing it into the overflow bottle and not pulling it back on cooldown, or is it completely losing it?
The first could mean a vacuum leak at the cap or the T or in the overflow tube. The second could be more serious.
I'd start with a cap designed to allow the coolant to be pulled back into the radiator, I believe it's referred to as a "vented" cap and check the overflow tube, particularly at the T and the bottle. Next, I'd change out the T. Then I'd have a radiator shop put a pressure tester on the system and see if you get any leakdown over time.
Any evidence of coolant in the oil? An old shadetree check for this is to put a good size drop of oil on a hot block or manifold and if it just burns off it's just oil, but if it boils off it's got water in it.
My .02.
Good Luck,
 

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Premium Member
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Dan,
If your caps are designed to syphon coolant back into the rad, then they will have a check valve on the inside. The valve should be held closed by a light spring. If the spring is missing or broken, the valve will fall open due to gravity and coolant will leak out(especially if it is the lower most cap...probably your rad cap). I had this problem...found it as I filled my cooling system.
Eric
 

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Pull the oil pan drain plug...see what comes out first. Hope it's oil.......


TimBoothe
 

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There is a chemical test kit that you can get at auto part stores. It draws air out of the cooling system. The air is run thru a stone then a fluid. If there are any exhaust gases in the cooling system the fluid will change color. It's virtually foolproof. I use it all the time at our shop. Easier than running compression or leakdown tests. I've never had a false test. The parts store here in Santa Cruz calls it a block tester kit. It sells for about $25.00
 

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When did FFR start supplying the "T"?

I had this problem initially myself. My temp would continue to climb, and when I shut it down it would puke coolant out of the overflow on the tank. Here's what I did that solved all of the problems.
1) I didn't like the huge gap between the Mustang shroud and the smaller diameter fan. I made a sheetmetal ring (with tabs for attachment) to cover that area, forcing all of the air to be pulled with the fan.

2) I bought a rubber expanding plug for the top of the radiator to get rid of any venting there.

3) bought a stainless hotrod tube style overflow tank which has the recovery tube, as well as overflow.

4) plumbed that diectly to the "T", and once the coolant level found it's balance, I never again had the overheating, or loss of coolant!

Brian
 

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Could air be trapped in the cooling system?...Did you ever have it "right" , or has it been a problem from day one?....If so , did you drill the eighth inch hole in the top of the thermostat?
When you refill at the "T" , try leaving the cap off overnight , and see if the level drops...If it does , there is air in the system.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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2,021 Posts
I had exactly the same problem and I'll bet that your lower radiator hose is collapsing under pressure. I went through several radiator caps and theromstats before I figured it out.

Go to your local boneyard, find an old heap, and cut the spring out of the radiator hose from two cars. Jam them into your hoses and I'll bet that the problem will go away. With a collapsed hose you can't draw fluid back into the system
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #12
I'll check it. I did substitute a major percentage of the hose with an aluminum pipe, but there is still the radiator & pump ends.
 

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My experience with collapsed hoses is... you need a new radiator cap.. If the hoses collapsed really easy and the cap was marginal, putting the wire in would help. ...... and a whole lot of big hoses do have wires in them.. BUT, A new cap is Cheap, and easy to find and is easy and clean to install.

earl
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #14
For insurance, I have a trailer for this weekend, so I know it will make it from the hotel to the track!
 

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I had the same loss of coolant which I first attributed to high pressure in the motor. Timing, heads, air pockets etc. Oil was clean all the time. I changed the rad cap on the "T" for a 16 then and 18 while raising the cap on the radiator from 18 to 20psi. The problem was the "T".
For some reason it no longer sealed to rad caps allowing pressure to bypass the cap and drain into the reserve tank. Try replacing the "T" with a new cap to match. Use a cast piece not chrome...for better seal. Keep the rad higher than the "T" so you can at least localize where "it should" escape from . Good Luck !
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #16
I thank everybody for thier input and ideas, but the real culprit eluded us all.

I was ready to pull the motor apart, and started the process. When I lifted off the intake manifold, I was greeted by brown foam & light sludge on the underside of the intake manifold & PCV. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm................ A thourough inspection of the heads & Intake manifold surfaces, and gaskets remoced showed places where the old gaskets were still caked on the heads by the water ports, and had crushed the gaskets there. I can surmise that during high vaccuum situations, it was pulling into the crankcase then burning off. The floors of the intake manifold runners also had a greenish tint, and the PCV valve was also covered in brown foam. further proof was the water that came out before the oil when I drained the crankcase. So, I think I found my problem!

Spent a long time meticulously cleaning every surface, carefully re-assembled, and fired it up, and it is keeping proper temp, coolant level seems to be holding, but it will take a few test drives to make sure.

I won't mention the motor trying to kill itself by seizing the oil pump, and snapping the oil pump drive shaft on the test drive! (another adventure!)

Still alive after the weekend, so maybe it will last until the end of the year?

 

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Not a waxer
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Cheap,
You really need to drop the pan and take a look at rod and main bearings before running it any longer. It takes very little antifreeze to wipe out a bearing in short order. Hope they are still O.K.

Good luck,
Jeff
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #18
JK,

On my short list of things to do. For now, I just wanted to get it running again, I have two fall tours and two shows to attend, then it's off the road for the winter, and I'll inspect then if it lives that far! No rides too far from home.

New oil pump makes lots of pressure, and no new motor noises, so I am hoping I finally got lucky.
 

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Senior Member
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Dan glad the water problem was simple to fix..

About the oil pump ... what pump are you running - hopefully NOT a high volume pump !!!!

Far too people here have had issues with the high volume pumps on these motors, the first place they go is the shaft.

I agree with the other poster, pull the bottom end and inspect the main bearings , should be able to do it on the car without too much hassle.

Good luck and keep us informed.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #20
You are the second to say "no" to the high volume, which is what was in stock Saturday night when trying desperately to fix the car for a Cobra outing the next morning (didn't make it anyway.)

Can you be more specific with the problems? I did replace the shaft as well....
 
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