Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've finally located a chassis in my price range and need to travel to pick it up. I've got a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the full size bed, can I get the bare chassis secured in there for the 3+hr ride home?

Also, Its a MkI, is there anything you guys recommend I should update/upgrade on the chassis before building?

I'll be using my 1990 GT mustang as the donor car, its already heavily modified and I'm hoping 99% of the parts swap over, at least from what I've read.

I know I'll still need to buy FFR parts, but I have a few major questions.

The driveshaft, is it a custom length piece from FFR?

The shifter, again, is it necessary to buy the angled one from FFR or will my existing short shifter work?

I plan on putting a passenger side roll bar on this car, are they weld on or bolt on?

The full length headers FFR sells, does that come out a pre-cut hole in the body to connect to the side pipe?

I'm buying this bare chassis, nothing included and I assume the mounts for suspension/engine/trans are already on the frame, correct? No major modifications to a chassis is neccessary, its just plug and play per say?

Thanks guys, I have yet to see a Cobra in person, but I hope that I'm not in over my head. I've wanted one of these because of the shock value but also because of the ease of building.

Yay for me!!! Pics to come next week of donor car and chassis side by side in my garage, just in time for winter!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,134 Posts
1. It won't fit. You'll need a trailer. The chassis is almost 90" long, and certainly wider than 48".

2. There's no bracing around the top of trans tunnel. You might want to add that. There's little - if any - side impact protection around the foot boxes. You'll definatly want to fix that. And the drivers' floor is flat. Dropping it 2-3" makes for a more comfortable ride.

3. The driveshaft is a special length. You can have your stock driveshaft shortened, or buy one ready made from a vender like Breeze or Forte's.

4. Yes, you need the shifter. Just like the original car, the trans is so far back you can't reach the shifter. It's just a stock '65 Mustang shifter arm turned around backwards.

5. Weld the stubs in, then run a bolt through it. Just copy the mounts from the driver's side.

6. The headers come out of a cut out in the body behind the front tire. When you order the body, you can get it with or without the cut outs.

7. Since you bought a bare chassis, you're going to need a lot of stuff from FFR. Better call them and ask about buying a kit without a frame. The MIII frame has some significant upgrades over the MI. I hate to say this, but you may not have gotten a bargain.
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
I'm hoping that you priced this approach out correctly because buying parts individually might cost a lot more than buying a kit. I guess you got a great deal on the frame but I wonder why only a bare frame was for sale by someone?
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
2,238 Posts
If for some reason you decide to go another route and part with the bare chassis please let me know ... have all the drivetrain & suspension & wheels already to go ... all I need is a decent chassis !!!!!!!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,875 Posts
Yes the chassis will fit by installing a few 2x4s across your pickup bed in the notches that are molded into the inside of your bed side walls, this will set your frame above the inner wheel wells giving you an area with more than 60" wide. I have moved many FFR frames this way.
*Did you get all of the aluminum panels with it?
*If you only have a bare frame there will be alot you will need to get from FFR.
*You will have to have a shortened driveshaft made.
*You can use the shifter you have but it may be a little far back for your liking.
*You will need to weld in the 3 short mounting tubes that the roll bar bases slide over and then bolt through.
*The sidepipes go through a precut hole (body cutouts are an option from FFR) in the side of the body and then bolt to the headers.
*All the mounts are welded to the frame and yes it's pretty much plug and play.
As mentioned by others, this could be a more costly way to go than just buying a new kit.
Don

Don

[ November 21, 2006, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: Don DePontee ]
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I'll measure my truck later today to see the width/lengths of it. I am really hoping I can do it with the truck, I could borrow a trailer, but a trailer would really slow me down on the trip.

I didn't get the aluminum panels with it, nothing as far as I know except the physical chassis. I'm not too concerend because of the excellent price I'm picking this up for.

I'm also not sure if I plan on making a complete Cobra. I might just register it as a Kit Car, and leave it bodyless, like just the cage showing w/ the motor out, etc. We'll see once I get it slapped together.

So if I read that post right, the chassis is roughly 4ftx8ft? If that's the case I think it'll fit in my full size bed. I've got plenty of rachet straps to keep it in one place.


You guys don't know how excited I am right now, lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,393 Posts
Unless you're getting this frame free, it's not a bargain. You should pick up the phone and ask FFR for the price of the aluminum. It's only available for MK III, BTW, you won't be able to order MK I aluminum. You're going to end up with a frame attached to your Mustang running gear and not much else. Buying all the stuff that comes with the kit piecemeal will cost you more than the kit.
 

·
dreamer turned builder
Joined
·
1,082 Posts
My chassis fit in the back of my dad's 2005 F150. I have pics to prove it. It was hanging out a bit so we used some ties to make sure it wouldn't go anywhere but it was just fine. This was with a carpeted truck bed and a shell on the truck as well! Just slid right in, slid right out. Didn't have to get a trailer.

Oh, and I agree with Richard and Joe about buying the kit. It would be way less headaches. FFR is still having their big sale right now.

http://www.factoryfive.com/table/whatsnew/specials/2006yearend/yearend.html

Justin
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
I know at one time some of the guys who specialize in painting FFR's were looking for a frame so they could have customer's just ship bodies but they would still be able to do all the body fitting work.

This way they could just stack up bodies instead of having to store all the go carts.

Maybe you could offer it up to one of them.
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm buying the frame for $200, which I feel is a STEAL. Like I said before in my post, I'm not necessarily out to build a "Cobra" but to have a fun, purpose built car that I built, is a lightweight/track monster and looks "different". I feel that even though I might leave it as a bare frame, it'll still draw attention and leave me satisfied.

Thanks for the concerns though.

Also, I measured my truck bed, 60x120, so if I have to angle it a bit that's fine, and I figure at most it'll hang out the bed 3ft, which isn't major, I've got rachet straps and will go to town on it. I'm excited!
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
OK, $200 and given your explanation of your intended use sounds like a good idea. Of course you could sell it to Pat McMahon (above) for a big profit as an alternative! Don't tell him that I gave you this idea....
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by DMW:
OK, $200 and given your explanation of your intended use sounds like a good idea. Of course you could sell it to Pat McMahon (above) for a big profit as an alternative! Don't tell him that I gave you this idea....
Yeah, I mean $200 is a wash, I can't even go to the grocery store and come out spending less than that anymore.

But thanks for the idea, I don't think that'll happen as I've wanted to build a kit car using FFR chassis for quite some time.
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I've been reading FF.com for the past hour trying to figure some things out.

Will I need some of the Aluminum sheet to attach parts too? Or does everything attach to the chassis? Such as the pedal cluster? Where does that attach?

Also, I noticed that the Mk3 kit comes with front coilover kit, did the mk1 kit come with that or can I use 100% of my mustang's suspension?

I currently have a roadrace setup on my foxbody, fully adjustable, and quite a bit of money in the suspension aspect. I love how it handles/ride now, will it all transfer over? I already have tubular adjustable control arms, etc etc.

Do most people put the factory power steering rack out of the mustang or do they buy the manual rack? I don't need power steering in this light of a car, so I'm thinking about dropping the $300 on the manual one.

I've noticed on pictures showing the rear end that for the lower shocks/maybe spring mount has like another mount,that drops it some? Is this something I should purchase seperate or what?

Just some questions I've got before actually seeing the thing. Once I have the chassis in my hands I'll be able to mock my suspension/brake setup on the car to see what all I will need to order.
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
The pedalbox attaches to the frame. You will want some footbox metal around you at a minimum plus you will want aluminum below your body too. Same thing for the passenger side. You'll also want a firewall and probably a cover for the tranny tunnel. You should get aluminum behind you too otherwise all the road dirt will be kicked up on your back and head. While you're at it, you might want to think about the trunk floor aluminum, the F-panels, and the front elephant ears - unless you're planning on an open frame racer with motorcycle-style fenders.

You will need the front coil overs and upper control arms as the Mustang suspension components will not fit, except the lower control arms.

People have varying opinions on power steering but it seems to help in autocrossing.

Can't help you on the stock rear end but you should consider the FFR $1000 3-link option for much better handling.

If I were you, I'd invest in a cheap sheet metal brake for bending and start fabricating aluminum panels - clean and paint the frame first, of course.
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, I am planning on doing aluminum panels here and there, I just didn't want to buy the FF5 kit because its simply overkill for what I want.

I do plan on getting the frame sandblasted and powerdercoated to begin with.

I do plan on going with motorcylce style fenders, at least in the front, and possible in the back. Kinda of like the Lotus 7 replica's have?

My 5lug spindle/whatnot will bolt on fine correct? I've got SN95 parts on my 90 gt right now, 5lug/rear disc and want to transfer that.

I guess the power steering isn't that much more work, plus it save $$ for now. If people keep power steering, why do manual brakes?

On the Cobra, is there a big piece sheet of aluminum under the frame to create a smoother wind flow? Or is it just bare tubing under the car? I'm debating on putting a large sheet of aluminum, as the floor, but also to make the underside more aerodynamic.

Any pictures as to what the F-panels are, or the elephant ears? Are they sold separately? If so I might consider them.

I really like the carbon fiber dash, good price too, but I'm afraid that attachs to the body rather than the chassis so I will probably just use a piece of aluminum and cut holes for my gauges.

Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it. I'm thinking about ordering a build manual to help the process, what'd you guys think of it?
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
12,975 Posts
The build manual will help give you an idea of what is involed in building the car. What frame did you get? M1,2,3? They are all a bit different. One thing you may want to keep in mind the ffr cobra frame is like you notice heavy duty and tough but it can only be altered so much. Your best bet is to build/use the suspension and running gear as it was designed to be assembled. Have to agree with some of the others on trying to build a "kitless" car.Way too expensive and if straying from the original design as suspenssion and such you may be better off designing and building your own speacial purpose frame to accept the parts you plan to use.
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
2,238 Posts
Purpose built track monster ... know all about those ... I personally thing you can do it and reasonably $$$ wise ... you do need to know a few things first .......

research - research - research (the MKI chassis is good, but can be way better esp. if you are making a track car)

dry aseemble the chassis & all components
fit everything they way you want
build everything yourself (alum., cage work, etc)
build a safe chassis (full cage, MKIII upgrades, think modified spec chassis w/halo)

once done to this point take it all apart and make it look purdy !!!

Most importantly talk to those who have pushed the chassis mod envelope to get some info on what needs/can be done !!!

Good Luck ... PM me if you need some thoughts !!!
 

·
Finally starting!!!
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the boost of confidence. I did some rough figures last night and for all the suspension, (f/r coilovers, 3link, tubular adj everything) and the other parts I think I'll need I'm looking at around $4500 in stuff from FF. That includes, engine/suspension/braking/electrics/everything, not bad.

I do plan on calling FF this week to make sure everything they currently sell for the mk3 with bolt onto my MK1. Anyone know for sure if all the suspension related parts will?

I'd like to do a full cage, but how stiff/rigid is the chassis like it is? Is it a competent chassis for the track? I figured I would build a windshield out of the tubing to incorporate it into the chassis, so why not take it back and connect it all, that sounds good.

What MkIII upgrades should I consider doing to my MKI?

Also, what do you mean by modified spec chassis w/ halo? If it was my choice and I had the dough, I'd certainly get a spec chassis, but again, not in the cards.

I'm going to set a budget of $7500 on this project for right now and see how far that'll take me. I've already got the donor car, running/driving, etc, so I just need to order lots of parts from FF and go to town. I think I can definitely do this for under my budget, and be a very well performing and good looking car. Kinda like my version of the Ariel Atom.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top