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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As many of you probably saw I got a new toy. 289 with Holley carb. Manual choke and mechanical fuel pump. After it sits a few days and I go to fire it how do you recommend I start it. 50-60 degrees in my garage. Call me if your EFI won't start. This is new territory for me and I have to say its pretty cool!


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Apply a little choke, perhaps 1/4, crank the engine, pump the gas pedal a few times while cranking the engine.

Every engine is different. Once you've started it a few times, you'll get the feel for what it takes. For example, on my engine, if it's above 50, I don't bother with the choke, I just pump it 3 times before cranking it and it starts up. If it's cold as in 20 or less, it's a little tougher.

Now if there's no fuel in the carb and you're starting it for the first time, fill the float chamber before you crank it. The fuel pump will have fuel in the lines long before the float chamber is empty.

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks sharx. I didn't know if with a mechanical pump I needed to wait to pump the pedal until cranking or before. I'm sure in a couple weeks ill have it down pat. I feel bad beating on the battery right now.


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Old School

says to pump the pedal twice, hold pedal and apply choke to it's "cold" setting (1/8" off of closed), release the pedal, crank it. It should fire and come up to your pre-set rpm due to the choke cam holding the pedal off idle. Once it's run for about 20 seconds, start releasing the choke gradually. You should be good-to-go after the choke has been completely released (approx. 30-45 seconds).

Hope that works for you, you'll probably have to "tweak" this procedure to fit your car, they're all different.

the fact that you have a mechanical pump doesn't play into this at all . . . the carb fuel bowls will have enough in them to start the car and run it for a minute at least.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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For me, In addition the choke, I've always given the gas a couple pumps before cranking.
 

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A holley carb has a pretty healthy pump shot so you can over do it if you go crazy especially with a choke. Mine starts with ½ pump and no choke year round. Give it the least required to light it off.

Frank
 

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Electric choke here. When cold, I pump throttle a couple of times, turn the key, rev once or twice, and all is well. But, I have my fast idle and choke turned down, so it is a bit cold natured......as is a convertible in the winter anyway! Tuned for summer.
 

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Electric choke too, but i just pump gas twice, three if it is cold in the shop. Make sure i hear the choke snap shut and it usually fires first hit. It comes up to 1000 rpm or so until choke comes off then it goes to 1800 fast idle until i bump the gas. Usually give it 1 minute of fast idle and its ready to drive.
 

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come on . . .

Frank,

You live in sunny California . . . you can't even use the word choke in sunny California . . .
The guy askin' lives in Chicago . . . there's snow there . . . you know, that white stuff . . . you only see snow if you drive up to Mount Baldy . . . "1/2 pump and no choke" . . . gimme a break.


Doc :beerchug:

Just pullin' your chain a bit . . . see Ya in April.
 

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Get rid of the choke. push the gas pedal 2-3x, then turn the key while gently holding the gas pedal (e.g., 1/8 of the way down). When it starts give it gentle gas to keep it idling around 1,000rpm. Depending on the temperature, after maybe a minute it will be able to idle on its own
 

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Mk4 FR347 TKO600 Moser 3:31 350RWHP 350RWHP NT01s GasN Pipes Corbeau seats Celina Custom Auto paint
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Empty Carb Bowls?

Don't know where you stand with this starting issue, but just remember that your new carb is empty, and it may take some cranking to get gas up to it. Before I started mine, Mike Forte advised me to fill the carb bowls manually. Then, two quick pumps, and it started instantly.

Good Luck, and Happy New Year,
Stan
 

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Hi nick,
I agree with what is said above but I want to clarify "pump it once or twice". That does not mean to put it to the floor 2-3 times. It means to pump the gas pedal 1/2 or so 2-3 times. I then hold the manual choke almost all on and turn the key. It should start right up and then push the choke 1/2 way in and a little more as it warms up. An automatic choke is another story as it does all of the adjustments through warm-up.
The start-up routine changes throughout the year so get used to the old days when a carb was the only choice....

Enjoy the cars on the link attached...
http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html

Happy New Year!!!
 

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If the carb is new and empty, just crank it. It takes a minute, and the oil pressure comes up, which is a good thing. Pull the plugs if you want, but the battery should be able to handle it.

Starting in cold weather, tapping the throttle first allows the carb linkage to reset the cams to move into the cold start position. Those different steps on the cams are for different things, but they can't get to their optimal position unless you allow them to move. THAT is the reason to depress the pedal first. It's not so much about pump shot, which happens every time you move the linkage - all day long.

YMMV. Literally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi nick,
I agree with what is said above but I want to clarify "pump it once or twice". That does not mean to put it to the floor 2-3 times. It means to pump the gas pedal 1/2 or so 2-3 times. I then hold the manual choke almost all on and turn the key. It should start right up and then push the choke 1/2 way in and a little more as it warms up. An automatic choke is another story as it does all of the adjustments through warm-up.
The start-up routine changes throughout the year so get used to the old days when a carb was the only choice....

Enjoy the cars on the link attached...
http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html

Happy New Year!!!
Thanks Mike. Couple throttle blips and I think I've got it figured out. Fires right up.
 

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Hi,
I don't like to disagree with tirod on the "It's not so much about pump shot, which happens every time you move the linkage - all day long".
The choke does not inject any fuel on it's own. The accelerator pump is what enriches the inlet air charge with fuel. A cold engine requires more fuel when cold and that is why a few partial pumps of the gas pedal is required to start a cold engine...
Practice a few methods and choose the best method you like.
If an engine does not need a choke to start it usually means the jetting is more rich than needed. That would have a spark plug color of black just like the tailpipe. A properly jetted carb will have a tan to gray colored insulator and so will the exhaust pipe.
HAPPY 2013!!!!
 

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1/2 pump, full choke then start. go to half choke when started. on auto choke, you need to pump anyway to set the choke so just a 1/2 pump then start. if you need anything more, you may need a tune.
 

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Not disagreeing with Mike -

I was really hinting more that since carbs pump the squirters every time the pedal is moved, it goes to why EFI usually nets a 2 mpg improvement. That was in the other off topic paragraphs about carbs I took out . . . :evil:

More to the point, I was suggesting that the linkage needs to release the cam because it was likely sitting on a hot idle step when shut down. Cold, it needs to adjust for the choke, etc. It can't move unless the pressure is released. Choke as needed, rattle the pedal, crank. A technical fine point. The choke certainly doesn't inject fuel, IIRC the point is to increase vacuum and pull more out of the existing system to enrich it further. But, I'm working off things taught me a long time ago, and certainly no expert on it.

Happy New Year!
 

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You know it...

Hi tirod,
I agree now. You just left out a few details. I do too some times... I just fail at conveying my thoughts in print. The brain is faster than the keyboard.. :)
Mike
Not disagreeing with Mike -

I was really hinting more that since carbs pump the squirters every time the pedal is moved, it goes to why EFI usually nets a 2 mpg improvement. That was in the other off topic paragraphs about carbs I took out . . . :evil:

More to the point, I was suggesting that the linkage needs to release the cam because it was likely sitting on a hot idle step when shut down. Cold, it needs to adjust for the choke, etc. It can't move unless the pressure is released. Choke as needed, rattle the pedal, crank. A technical fine point. The choke certainly doesn't inject fuel, IIRC the point is to increase vacuum and pull more out of the existing system to enrich it further. But, I'm working off things taught me a long time ago, and certainly no expert on it.

Happy New Year!
 

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OK guys. If you pump to much you will flood the engine. Then you will have to hold your foot all the way to the floor, release the chock and start the engine to clear the flooded condition. A carb which has been adjusted properly will need only one slow pump to set the the chock and the high speed ideal cam.
 

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If the carb is new and empty, just crank it.
LOL, my first car was a big old 60's era beast with a gas gauge that didn't work. For years I would fill the tank with gas and then fill the 5 Gallon container in the trunk so that I could drive until it was dry and then use the 5 gallon container to get me to a gas station. Problem was the "just crank it" process didn't work very well on an old engine with an old mechanical fuel pump on a boat that was so big it seemed like the gas had to travel a mile from the tank to the carb so the easier route was to pour a small dash of what was left in the 5 gallon tank directly into the carb. It fired up every time and this was just enough to prime the fuel pump ;-). Not recommended but it worked perfectly every time (even in -30 degree temps).
 
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