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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I go and wire my starter I want to see what you guys have to say about this. Im running the ffr solenoid on the firewall, Iam going to install a powermaster 9603 mini starter. the instructions say to run a 12 gauge wire from the open side of the solenoid to the battery post on the mini starter, then jump it to the ignition post and thats it. does this sound right?
 

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Jump to ignition post?

When you say jump it to ignition post, I assume you mean at the starter just jump the large hot terminal to the solenoid engagement terminal or start terminal. In theory it looks great since the firewall solenoid does the heavy power switching and why not just let the starter operate whenever power comes from the firewall solenoid. In reality for some reason when you wire it like this, when the key is released the starter stays engaged for a second or two, Ford tech articles address this issue witch I found out after I wired mine this way. I would try to find the ford article before doing the wiring.
 

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Yes, if you are using the remote solenoid. If you were not using the remote solenoid, you would connect the battery cable to the large terminal on the starter and the smaller wire from the start switch to the smaller terminal.
 

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Here's a crude drawing of how to wire the mini starter using a starter relay (solenoid).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok thanks John, thats the way I thought it should be done
 

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Some Pics

Here's how I just wired mine a month ago. I used to have the old style ford starter and replaced it with this new PMGR starter from Breeze which fixed my hot start issues. Sounds much better better to boot! Regards Scott

Auto part Engine Fuel line Exhaust system Pipe
Wire Electrical wiring Cable Auto part Fuel line
 

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My Powermaster is wired the exact same as Johns' diagram, and works perfect! This set up apparently can prevent starter run on, which some have had issues with in the past.

Hint-Add an additional ground cable/strap from your starter to the frame.
 

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You got a fine mini starter, why use the remote solenoid? You dont need it and I can tell you from personal experience that the solenoid from FFR it's crap, I have change three who not break the circuit.
 

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Peter, the instructions that came with my mini-starter are exactly like those in Johnnybgoode's thread. Using the "old" solenoid as a terminal block allows you to use the original wiring with only one additional light gauge wire. Not the best but simpler than rerouting the existing wires. ( I, too, have had multiple Ford style solenoids which did not disengage when the key/button was released). Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
My Powermaster is wired the exact same as Johns' diagram, and works perfect! This set up apparently can prevent starter run on, which some have had issues with in the past.

Hint-Add an additional ground cable/strap from your starter to the frame.
is the engine ground strap not enough? do you ground it form the battery post or the ignition post on the starter, or can I just ground it off one of the mounting bolts?
 

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You got a fine mini starter, why use the remote solenoid? You dont need it and I can tell you from personal experience that the solenoid from FFR it's crap, I have change three who not break the circuit.
The mini starter with the built in solenoid requires a little more amps to energize than the remote mounted Ford solenoid. Using the remote solenoid will remove some of the amp load from the ignition switch and make it last longer.

As some are aware, not all solenoids are made the same. The only one worth buying is a genuine Ford solenoid, from you local Ford dealer. I specify a solenoid for a 92 Mustang because it comes equipped with an internal diode to prevent back feeding the electrical system.

Additional grounds from the starter to the chassis are fine, if you need them, but if there is no electrical resistance between the engine block and the chassis, there is no need for them. If you are using an EFI, it needs to gave a dedicated ground for the injectors, usually at the rear of the drivers side head to somewhere on the chassis.
 

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I ran a separate ground from one of the starter mounting lugs to the frame. There's actually a stud attached to the motor mount stand on the frame for this purpose on my car but am not sure if this was standard FFR or added by PO. You can see the ground cable in the pic, a std 12" 4 gauge pre-made cable from the auto parts store fit perfect. Scott
 

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Ground Lug

Found a pic of the ground lug I have on the frame.
Auto part Fuel line Pipe Engine Vehicle
 

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is the engine ground strap not enough? do you ground it form the battery post or the ignition post on the starter, or can I just ground it off one of the mounting bolts?
Over the years, many fellows that had starting problems, regardless of starter type, seemed to lead back to poor ground issues. You may not need one, but for $5, why take a chance, and have to fiddle with it later, (or worse, getting stuck somewhere..) Just do a search on "starter grounds" if you want some examples ..

Just run a strap from a starter mounting bolt, to any convenient location on the frame.
J Persons used a heavy 4 gauge wire, which is probably why he didn't need an additional engine ground, but the stock OEM donor strap on the left side of the block... may not be quite enough for everyone...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
good tips guys thanks, I will ground the starter just for piece of mind if nothing else
 
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