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Junior Charter Member
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569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm still having problems starting the engine. I was wondering if the starter might be the problem. What rpm should the starter turn the engine over. I;m getting about 60 rpm. I rebuilt the starter out of the donor. Grounds are good (strap from the block plate to the frame) and I have two batterys piggbacked. Is it not turning fast enough?

Andrew
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,726 Posts
Sounds slow to me.I would expect more like 2-300 engine rpm but I will admit I've never checked it.Give us details.Starter w/ or w/o built in solenoid?Firewall mounted Ford solenoid in use?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's a standard Ford unit from an '88. New firewall mounted solenoid. 0 guage cables. It engages fine. The motor doesn't catch just the odd pop and a backfire or two.

Andrew
 

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Andrew I just went through all this with my Starter. I would turn slowly or not at all.

I have a ground strap from the block to the frame, from the heads to the frame and another from the starter motor mount bolt to the frame.

Backfire and popping that I had was due to the timing as I was off by quite a bit. 40 degrees or so retarded.

I also double checked my battery charge and voltage at the starter wires.

Lastly I turned the motor over by hand and primed motor with oil to lossen everything up.

Double checking all that I managed to fire my car up today. Still rough, but it was bad a-s-s
- Jim
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Not mistaken the starter needs to spin motor to at least 250-300rpm to trigger the ignition. If you are sure all is in time correctlly as is fireing order with useing the two battery I would say starter is trash. What is the amprege draw at the battery when starter is engaged? Battery voltage should not drop below 10 volts and amp draw will be about 150 amp's on a stock motor.
Since you are experienceing backfires it proves ignition is fireing. Ignition fireing motor should start if all else correct.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Guys.

It's getting frustrating to say the least.

I've taken off the valve covers to check the TDC. The timing light shows base timing with spout out at 10 degrees. The fuel pressure is 40 lbs. The injectors trigger when I turn it over by hand (fuel pressure drops and pump cuts in).

The grounds are good (welded studs), strap from frame to both heads, frame to block plate.

Pulled the codes and nothing except missing emissions control stuff. Gapped the plugs to 50 thousandths. Checked the spark with #1 plug out and grounded.

The starter just seems slow, not straining but slower than I would expect. Perhaps Santa will bring me a new one for Christmas.

I'll check all the things you have suggested.

Andrew
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Also if any doupt as to it being caused by wireing such as grounds or battery leads just put battery on floor by starter and use a set of jumper cables directlly to the starter,just make the last connection the ground since it will arc when connected. Cranks faster you found problem.
Also if checking timing with timing light while cranking that too is showing ignition fireing.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Replaced the starter. No change.

Just rechecked the codes and I get:
21 coolant temp sensor OOR
22 MAP sensor OOR
24 Intake Air charge temp OOR
31 EVP below minimum voltage (deleted)
67 Neutral drive switch (believe this is AC)
81 Air diverter solenoid (deleted)
82 Air diverter solenoid circuit
85 Canister purge solenoid (deleted)
84 EGR vac regulator circuit (deleted)
95 Fuel pump secondary circuit

I'm not sure about 95. What is the secondary circuit?

Andrew
 
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