Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, its been too long since I have been on here, having twins will do that too you, lol.

Anyway after 5 perfect years with my MK4 i now have a starter issue. When i turn the key i hear a big click sound. Turn it two times, three times, sometimes four times before it turns over and starts. When it finally does turn over it sounds strong and starts right up. First thing i did was change the battery, then i changed the starter and I checked to make sure all of the wires from the key to the starter are making good contact. Still having the issue. What do you guys think?

If you want, send me a DM and i can email you a video of the sound.
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
2,597 Posts
If you have a one wire starter (stock type) and replaced it and still have issues, you need to check the relay. It's nothing more than a huge "washer type" connection within and can (known to) corrode. You're trying to send a huge load from battery + through it and it'll not make good contact, but repeated tries may work as you've found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What year setup? Do you have a fender mount relay or right from key to starter mounted solenoid?
Ford 302 with a carb. The solenoid is on the starter.

I bought my starter on summit -
Ford Performance Parts M-11000-B51 - Ford Performance Parts Starters
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have a one wire starter (stock type) and replaced it and still have issues, you need to check the relay. It's nothing more than a huge "washer type" connection within and can (known to) corrode. You're trying to send a huge load from battery + through it and it'll not make good contact, but repeated tries may work as you've found.
Where is the relay?
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
2,597 Posts
OK, that is a mini starter and the solenoid is the small unit on the starter. Most people wire that type direct to the ignition Start terminal for the engagement. I can only guess it's wired that way and because you've replaced it and the battery, you have other things to look for. Mainly, good grounds. Block to frame, block to battery, battery to frame etc. All of which need to be clean, including the positive cable.

If you or someone else wired the old style relay in, it looks similar to this Ford Mustang OEM Starter Relay Solenoid SW1951C (85-93 5.0L) and will feed the other relay. Kinda' redundant but some do it.
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
OK, that is a mini starter and the solenoid is the small unit on the starter. Most people wire that type direct to the ignition Start terminal for the engagement. I can only guess it's wired that way and because you've replaced it and the battery, you have other things to look for. Mainly, good grounds. Block to frame, block to battery, battery to frame etc. All of which need to be clean, including the positive cable.

If you or someone else wired the old style relay in, it looks similar to this Ford Mustang OEM Starter Relay Solenoid SW1951C (85-93 5.0L) and will feed the other relay. Kinda' redundant but some do it.
Mine did that until I replaced the cheap master cutoff switch with a HD model. A lot of amps go through that switch on start up.
 

·
Too Cheap to paint!
Joined
·
6,458 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
If all the wiring checks out then something to consider is if you used a new or a remanufactured starter. I’ve had reman starters be bad out of the box. They test them at the plant but it’s not with an actual load on it
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
1,103 Posts
Make sure you ground the engine with a wire as big as the positive wire. Mine is a short wire (about 12 to 18 in) from the block near the starter direct to the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Hi guys, its been too long since I have been on here, having twins will do that too you, lol.

Anyway after 5 perfect years with my MK4 i now have a starter issue. When i turn the key i hear a big click sound. Turn it two times, three times, sometimes four times before it turns over and starts. When it finally does turn over it sounds strong and starts right up. First thing i did was change the battery, then i changed the starter and I checked to make sure all of the wires from the key to the starter are making good contact. Still having the issue. What do you guys think?

If you want, send me a DM and i can email you a video of the sound.
G'day rivet,

let's see if it is a bad connection issue or flat battery. Switch on the headlights and then try cranking the engine. If the headlights go dim or go out then you either have a flat battery or a bad connection in your system. If your headlights stay reasonably bright, then your issue most likely lays elsewhere, possibly either with the ignition switch or the starter motor.

A poor circuit between your key switch and the solenoid on the starter motor will result in a solenoid clicking but not having enough energy to pull in fully to engage the contacts for the starter motor. This will give that click sound that you hear when you turn the key to the start position. The best way to test for this fault is to use a multimeter to measure DC volts between the lighter gauge wire to the that attaches to the solenoid and ground. With the key in the start position you should see full battery volts at this terminal. If you don't then there is a bad connection in the starting control circuit.

Having tested the above successfully, then it is time to move on to taking some voltage measurements from the starter motor itself. Use a multimeter to measure DC volts between ground and the battery lead connecting to one of the large bolts on the solenoid. You should see full battery bolts at this point. Now try cranking the engine you should still see battery volts at this point always. Volts will be a bit lower if the starter motor is actually turning. If there is less than 9 volts at this point when the starter is engaged then you have a problem with a bad connection between your battery and the starter motor either on the positive or negative part of the circuit.

If the starter motor is still clicking then try measuring DC volts between ground and the other large terminal on the solenoid. This terminal should have battery volts showing on it when the solenoid is engaged. If there is no battery volts here it is likely that the solenoid is bad. If there is full battery volts there then it is likely that the starter motor is bad.

Also make sure your battery terminals and battery clamps are nice and shiny when you make connection. Dull battery terminals are a result of lead oxide which is an excellent insulator.

Best of luck.

Nigel
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
1,273 Posts

Here is an example.

Many of us have one, is there one that has proven to be heavy duty and holds starting current better than others?
I bought this one from Pegasus Auto Racing and it solved my starter problem #4430 cut off switch
 

·
Official OLD GUY
Joined
·
3,878 Posts
Just my 2¢ but, it sure seems like the only people that have starter issues are people that wire it THRU the battery cut-off switch. Unless you have a cut-off switch rated at +300 amps. The cheaper ones are NOT designed to handle the draw of a starter . . .

Doc
 
  • Like
Reactions: Datosi

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Do a voltage drop test on the battery cables. Put a voltmeter in line with the cable, crank the starter and look at the voltage. It should be near zero. Any voltage showing on the meter is voltage that couldn't get through the cable.
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
57 Posts
Hi Rivet,

In this type of problem, the saying: the weakest link in the chain, is so true. Posters have already mentioned two of those specifically (cutoff switch and the solenoid on cheap or reman starters). I found another one which I incorporated into the system myself because I thought it was cool- a start button. But the rule still applies; don’t add anything electronic to your system either undersized (like cables or wires) and don’t use any remaned electrical parts only high quality (price is usually associated with amount of amperage the device will handle as a working load). So I replaced my remaned starter, cut off switch, and starter button with better units and the problem went away. This was not done at once but over time. Now I have replaced the starter switch once in a couple of years, keep the battery topped off, and keep all contacts clean of corrosion. Since my battery is in the drivers side in the trunk it is a stretch (pun) for the electrical starting system.

I will eventually put the battery where it should have been in the beginning: in the front passenger side engine bay. That’s another project!

Good luck expelling your gremlins,

WEK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi guys, its been too long since I have been on here, having twins will do that too you, lol.

Anyway after 5 perfect years with my MK4 i now have a starter issue. When i turn the key i hear a big click sound. Turn it two times, three times, sometimes four times before it turns over and starts. When it finally does turn over it sounds strong and starts right up. First thing i did was change the battery, then i changed the starter and I checked to make sure all of the wires from the key to the starter are making good contact. Still having the issue. What do you guys think?

If you want, send me a DM and i can email you a video of the sound.
you need to check the relay. It's nothing more than a huge "washer type" connection within and can (known to) corrode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the delayed update guys, I had summit send me a new starter and it fixed the issue!! I must have had a bad starter. Thanks for the help.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top