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BLUBLUR
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990 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
cruising with the Tri-County Cobras today down PCH, slowed down and engine cut out, knew right away it flooded. Fuel level in secondary bowl was way high and bubbling earlier in the day and despite attempts to adjust and tapping on the bowl, level stayed high, likely from a stuck needle and seat (?). Eventually, it settled down (debris must have come loose) and off I went with about 30 Cobras. It was awesome. Then the engine cut out.

So, I pulled over and checked the sight glass and sure enough, secondary bowl was full, tried starting the car and no dice. Let sit for a few minutes then pushed gas pedal to the floor and tried gain, and car started and climbed the revs quickly as I couldn't get my foot off the pedal quick enough. Flooded and died again on way home while coming to a light, and had to restart the same way, with the pedal on floor while cranking....scared the people in cars next to me with the loud exhaust when car started.

I have had carbed cars in the past and this is how I was taught to restart when engine flooded. Have I done any damage starting my gas flooded engine?
Thank guys.
 

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Super Moderator
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29,535 Posts
Probably not.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,767 Posts
Nahhhhh. At least you didnt have a backfire and fire in the carb
Steve
 

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Junior Charter Member
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68 Posts
You should be fine, except your plugs may be a little worse for wear. I assume you are using a Holley from your description. Some may consider this blasphemy, so I'll put on my flame suit. Switch to an Edelbrock carb. I don't like carbs of any sort, but if I had to use one, it would be an Eddy. Once you get them set, you really don't have to mess with them anymore. Very user friendly.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Also recommend checking the oil for gas. Smell the dip stick. Smells like gas ,change oil and filter. It can thin the oil down,and by the time it starts to evaporate out. Damage can be done.
Oh, disassemble and clean the carb out. Problem of dirt causeing float to stick will happen again if not cleaned out.
 

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Premium Member
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7,018 Posts
Philip:

I wondered what happened to you. We missed you at the Rock Store. As per above, you should probably be "ok". When I got tired of trying to dial-in my Holley, I bought a rebuilt Edelbrock off ebay. Works like a charm! Let me know and I can find the name of the guy that I bought it from. He is in the business of rebuilding carbs, etc.
 

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BLUBLUR
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990 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys. I have a BG Speed Demon....loved it til now. I have heard of them being dirty from the factory...metal shavings, etc. I guess that't true!

What caused the fuel in the bowl to bubble?

I will take the carb off and look-clean both bowls and needle/seat and change the fuel filter by the pump.

Bob, by the time I got the car started, many people from Neptunes Net have crossed the road and started taking pictures of me (wearing my predator helmet) in the car. I was trying to hurry off before car died again but people surrounded the car
and I had to be a little patient while they took turns posing and taking pics.
Yeah, what Edel model u using and who is your guy?
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Blu, over the years it's become habbit to remove the bowls and check new carbs. Most have at least a little trash in them.
Bubbleing fuel can be caused by a few things. For instance on my engine,even with properlly adjusted float level. After the engine sat for about 15 minutes once it was brought up to temp. The gas would "perkulate" in the bowls. This was notice by looking down the carbs bore after engine was off. Gas could be seen dripping from the booster along with lots of mist/vapor. The carb gets heat soaked. This cause's the level to rise in the fuel bowls causeing them to drip gas into the manifold. Car was basically flooded when restarting a hot engine. May find like myself a 1" plastic or wood insulating spacer is need to cure this.
Gas running out of site glass under normal contitions would be from leaking float or too high float level.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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646 Posts
My advice- figure out what's wrong with your current setup before swapping parts. If you've got trash in the fuel system it may screw up the new carb also, so why change it???

-Matt
 

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BLUBLUR
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990 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys.

New gas tank but I will definitely change my fuel filter just to be sure and clean the carb.
I thnk I may also install inline filter before the carb for insurance.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,706 Posts
Pls get that solved. If you hydraulic lock a cylinder you can cause major engine damage.i once worked an a Lexus v8 w/ and engine knock.Finally narrowed it down to one cylinder.Found a conrod that had an "S" bend where it got shortened by trying to compress a liquid. Remember from high school that that's not possible?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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68 Posts
Blu, what size carb is your BG, and what size is your engine? If you're running a 302, I would use Edelbrock #1406, which is a 600 cfm elec. choke unit. It works beautifully on 350ci and smaller engines. You can run a larger one, but you will have to jet it down considerably to get it to run properly, and the large throats of a big carb can hurt your low end throttle response. If you want a manual choke 600 cfm, the part # is 1405, I think. It's been a while since I sold and used these things so my memory is a little rusty on the part numbers. I agree with Matt's post above, though. Check your system for foreign material before changing carbs, if you have a bunch of crap in there it will happen again with the new carb. This could also be the reason why your secondary bowl was overfull, any foreign material can cause the needles to stick. Good luck.
 

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BLUBLUR
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990 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again guys. I am procrastinating pulling the carb off....too smelly of a job for a Sunday, I think I will put it off til one of these weeknights when I come home stressed from work, get to it for stress therapy.


My carb is a BG speed demon 650 mech second, no choke. Some would say this is too big for my FMS 302 (and they're prolly be right)but when we installed and ran it on a dyno, it ran awesome
and the A/F was fine, resulted in nice HP and TQ increase over the Holley 670 street avenger.

I will heed advise and check that clean fuel is getting to the carb and change filter, change engine oil/filter as precautionary measure, check for fouled plugs, etc.

I have no intention of dumping the BG Speed Demon carb but if I do, BIGS will be it for me so no more guessing.
 

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Moderator
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I would just replace both needle and seat assemblies. Sometimes you find something in there and sometimes you don't and you can clean them until you're blue in the face and they still stick. Don't save what you take out either. Toss them as far as you can to prevent the mistake of reninstalling questionable parts later on. And just to be contrary, I have serious doubts about fuel percolation resulting in boil over since with such high volatility in current gasolines it would become a gas long before it had a chance to run anywhere. Rmember vapor lock? If you see fuel dribbling out of the boosters either with the enine running or shut off, it's due to an over filled fuel bowl plain and simple. Fix that condition and you're on your way.
Frank
 

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3,623 Posts
Have you thought about installing a set of carb inlet fittings that have a filter in them to catch the small stuff just before it enters the carb. I have cleaned the bowls on my Holley twice due to the same problem your having. Mine were small bits of rubber from assembling the AN fittings. JEGS has them to fit Demon carbs that have a fine mess SS screen in them. # 132-140031 is-06 AN $9.99 each ,# 132-140033 is -08 AN $11.99 each. These will add a secondary filter at the point of fuel entry into the carb.
HTH CB
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Blu yes. Install a filter before the carb.
Try to stay away from the small "glass"filters with changable elements. Glass filters should never be used due to the risk of cracking.
Holley stone inlet filters will fit in the BG carb inlets.
 

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Mercruiser make a filter that they use in all of there HP motors with holley's.
Looks like the old rochester set-up.
Filter #35-93568
Spring #24-48143
From Dennis Moore's book- Big-Block Chevy Marine Performance- "Mercruiser sells an excellent fuel filter that should be used on all Holley carburators> The Filters don't restrict fuel flow and catch very small dirt particles in the fuel before they ruin a weekend of boating"
availible here- http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/PartsExpress/ProductSelection/ServiceParts/sphome.asp?CID=
 

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1) remove holley-style carb;

2) throw in trash can or list on e-Bay;

3) install Edelbrock Performer (street) or AVS Thunder (track). Call Edelbrock's tech line for free engineering help to set it up.

4) drive your car and ENJOY it, and not having to constantly tweak it or worry about backfires, blown power valves or engine fires from leaking fuel bowls.
 
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