I have a MKII with the new style hood hinge. The hinge doesn't want to lay flat ( parallel) to the hood in the closed position. It hits the 3/4" cross tube before closing all the way flat. Wassupwidat ?
Tim, I,ve run into that on the first few I did. At this point the best way to take care of it is to notch the small front brackets so they clear the tube...or, you can slot the 6 holes on the hood plate and move the hood forward, once the hood is forward you can move the hinge assy back and the hinge should clear...or both, whatever it takes...da Bat
I found that I had the brackets screwed together wrong when I first noticed that......you may not have the same problem, but once I fiddled around with the brackets, I got everything to clear the front 3/4" tube by a 1/2" or so when closed.
I had more of a problem with the outside edge of the hoop interfering with the hood seal, and getting the hoop to lay flat against the hood. I ended up cutting off the upper portion of the hoop just above the air shock mounts and trimming the edges to miss the seal. This alowed me to bend and twist the hoop to lay perfectly flat against the hood. Some re-weld the upper portion of the hoop back on, but I found it unnessesary.
At first I bonded the hoop to the hood with 3M HSRF, but found later that it was too brittle and it seperated from the hoop (maybe the mix wasnt perfect?) so I ended up using the button head screw method.
If/when I do it again I plan on counter sinking some screws into the surface of the hood, then bonding/screwing the hood to the hoop and HSRFing the screw heads to make them invisible.
I didn't have any interference issues, but certainly it's not a real straight forward installation to say the least. Like Rickster, I trimmed the perimeter of the hoop sheet metal to clear the body openning so after bonding the increased thickness would not interferrer with getting the surfaces parallel. I found the curvature of the hood was too much for the hinge to bolt up to so I bent the hinge plate to look like a truncated peramid. I bent the ends roughly 15v degrees down nad then bent the hinge flanges 15 degrees up so the hinge mechanisn would function being back parallel. That significantly reduced the number of washers required and I didn't have to drop down the assembly as close to the bar thats causing the interferrence to get the front of the hood even with the body. Did you follow that???? Also puts less stress on the HSFR .
Frankly, I found the FFR hood hinge just about the toughest part of the entire build. Getting the hood to sit even with the body was a real test of composure. After screwing around off and on for about a week, it's now OK, *not perfect but the body guy can take a crack at it.
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