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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got the body off of my new to me MK I in order to repaint most of the frame, add a passenger roll bar, and add some protection.

As I start disassembling some stuff to be able to clean and touch up the frame I found this…

Tire Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Bumper


what should I do? I have a welder coming and he could just put in another nut but I wanted to check to see if there is a better solution. Thanks!
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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Weld some thick hardened washers to just outside of center of the slots and use the adjustable arms for adjustment
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gordon, thank you for the fast response. So you are saying to weld grade 8 washers to the bottom side to eliminate the “slot” adjustment? When you say “just outside of center” do you mean closer to the engine or the wheel? Does this happen frequently and if so should I do the same to the other wheel that doesn’t have a broken nut?
Thanks again for the help!
 

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Eliminate the slot adjustment altogether since you have adjustable arms. Welding the washers to the plates will give the arm a solid mounting. I would inspect the mounts and the arms well for cracking and such because if the previous repairs we see.
 

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The original MkI UCAs had no adjustment built into them so sliding them in the slot was the adjustment. Somewhere along the line the previous owner welded the nuts there so those bolts w/ jam nuts could be used to move the arm in the slot more accurately than just loosening the bolt and sliding it some amount. Then later on someone upgraded to the newer arms w/ adjustable sleeves. So you now have two ways to adjust. Gordons recommendation eliminates the original less than satisfactory adjustment method.
 
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Along with a good washer welded on the bottom, "V" out the welds on the top of the frame and re-weld that area to make it stronger. Also weld the washer from the top side "inside" the slot to increase strength. jmo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys, I’m still learning about the car and I didn’t realize these were added on. I will do as you say and adjust with the arms. This forum is awesome, best car forum I’ve been a part of for technical help
 

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You've got three of the best helping you with this issue. Gordon, Craig, & Weendoggy know these cars backwards, forwards, inside, outside, & upside down. Between them, you've got over 100 years of experience.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, additional question.
I am going to remove the arms, weld in washers and then realign.

I’ve never done my own alignment but if I am just doing the upper control arms could I just buy a Fast Trax tool and do caster and camber? I don’t have to worry about toe if it was previously set correctly?
Thanks!
 

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Sorry, additional question.
I am going to remove the arms, weld in washers and then realign.

I’ve never done my own alignment but if I am just doing the upper control arms could I just buy a Fast Trax tool and do caster and camber? I don’t have to worry about toe if it was previously set correctly?
Thanks!
Correct from Rich: Camber, Caster, Toe in that order. You can easily string your chassis to do this.
 
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